Castle Creations Mamba Max Pro Sensored ESC
#946
Bit of a problem guys and could do with some advice please.
I have been running my MMP in my Cyclone WCE touring car since mid December.
It's been absolutely fantastic, to the point where i bought another one last month for my offroad car.
Thing is last during first practice the car was cogging very badly around say 1/5th throttle, afte that it was smooth as usual.
Tried different batteries, replaced the sensor harness, tried 3 different motors, various settings from the field link.
Nothing still the same.
So today i tried solving it, tried a mates CC motor, still the same.
Went through the settings with the castlelink software still the same.
So i thought i'd try running it sensorless.
I've found before that if i'm running a sensorless motor disconnecting the sensor harness from just the motor it doesn't run, you need to remove the harness from the MMP side.
So i did this, plugged in my battery turned the car on, and turned around to pick up my Tx, when i turned back i saw the MMP was putting out a fair bit of smoke.
Disconnected the battery and let it stand for a few mins.
Found the motor was too hot to touch yet i hadn't even pulled the throttle.
There is no obvious signs of melting and all the wires are well insulated and no signs or arcing.
I tried the motor with a XeRun Esc i keep for spares and it works great without cogging, so i don't think it was a faulty motor.
Any ideas please?
I'm not too happy about plugging it in again to be honest, but is there anything i can check?
Cheers
Mark
I have been running my MMP in my Cyclone WCE touring car since mid December.
It's been absolutely fantastic, to the point where i bought another one last month for my offroad car.
Thing is last during first practice the car was cogging very badly around say 1/5th throttle, afte that it was smooth as usual.
Tried different batteries, replaced the sensor harness, tried 3 different motors, various settings from the field link.
Nothing still the same.
So today i tried solving it, tried a mates CC motor, still the same.
Went through the settings with the castlelink software still the same.
So i thought i'd try running it sensorless.
I've found before that if i'm running a sensorless motor disconnecting the sensor harness from just the motor it doesn't run, you need to remove the harness from the MMP side.
So i did this, plugged in my battery turned the car on, and turned around to pick up my Tx, when i turned back i saw the MMP was putting out a fair bit of smoke.
Disconnected the battery and let it stand for a few mins.
Found the motor was too hot to touch yet i hadn't even pulled the throttle.
There is no obvious signs of melting and all the wires are well insulated and no signs or arcing.
I tried the motor with a XeRun Esc i keep for spares and it works great without cogging, so i don't think it was a faulty motor.
Any ideas please?
I'm not too happy about plugging it in again to be honest, but is there anything i can check?
Cheers
Mark
#947
Ohhh sorry forgot to say.
I did plug it into the castlelink and my PC did see the MMP and i as able to check the settings, it was in smart sense mode.
Cheers
Mark
I did plug it into the castlelink and my PC did see the MMP and i as able to check the settings, it was in smart sense mode.
Cheers
Mark
#948
well gixer smoke is never a good thing!
I probably would solder in an old BL motor and power it on (after wearing goggles) and see what happens. sounds like you are prepared to send it in for a warranty call anyhows!
,aybe try re-installing the firmware on the ESC (or downgrade then load I thibk its 1.25 beta?). reading the GM forum this can sometimes solve cogging issues.
I probably would solder in an old BL motor and power it on (after wearing goggles) and see what happens. sounds like you are prepared to send it in for a warranty call anyhows!
,aybe try re-installing the firmware on the ESC (or downgrade then load I thibk its 1.25 beta?). reading the GM forum this can sometimes solve cogging issues.
#949
well gixer smoke is never a good thing!
I probably would solder in an old BL motor and power it on (after wearing goggles) and see what happens. sounds like you are prepared to send it in for a warranty call anyhows!
,aybe try re-installing the firmware on the ESC (or downgrade then load I thibk its 1.25 beta?). reading the GM forum this can sometimes solve cogging issues.
I probably would solder in an old BL motor and power it on (after wearing goggles) and see what happens. sounds like you are prepared to send it in for a warranty call anyhows!
,aybe try re-installing the firmware on the ESC (or downgrade then load I thibk its 1.25 beta?). reading the GM forum this can sometimes solve cogging issues.
I thought it might be the sensor cable but i tried a new one and it was still the same.
I'll hold on and see what CC say before i plug it in again.
Good job i've got a spare
Last edited by gixer; 04-23-2010 at 07:21 PM.
#950
Tech Adept
Here we drive in tracks for 1/8 so they are big.
My experience is somehow different. I am driving a 9,5T SP and was looking for more power all the way, found it with the cheat mode, I will not tell you the timing I am using
Had the problem with the engage RPM as I told. Moved down the engage RPM.
My team mate is driving other motors, one of them a 6T Delta GM, and his first impression when moved from GM Genius120 to MMP was that the driving was more smooth with the MMP.
Both of us were looking for a more agressive delivery of power.
But we are in the beginning of the season, is possible to move for different conclusions.
My experience is somehow different. I am driving a 9,5T SP and was looking for more power all the way, found it with the cheat mode, I will not tell you the timing I am using
Had the problem with the engage RPM as I told. Moved down the engage RPM.
My team mate is driving other motors, one of them a 6T Delta GM, and his first impression when moved from GM Genius120 to MMP was that the driving was more smooth with the MMP.
Both of us were looking for a more agressive delivery of power.
But we are in the beginning of the season, is possible to move for different conclusions.
Worked very well. Just got the extra power on the big straight.
My team mate TQ with is 5.5T motor, using cheat mode too.
Noticed the ESC fan never come on with the 9.5T motor, air temp was 30ºC and the track 55ºC. Motor was coming out around 90ºC after 5min qualify so put same fans on for the 7min finals. Worked well. Ended at 80ºC.
Noticed that the "blue is better" guys were having very high temps on motors and ESCs for the same speed.
#951
........
Last edited by gruman28; 04-26-2010 at 08:30 AM. Reason: wrong post
#952
well got back yesterday after running the mmp in 13.5 at cotswold mcc in the UK. I have solved the undrivability issue by changing the punch control from 'unlimited' power to 70% and the car was rapid and quite easy to drive with a really nice powerband.
I still had an issue with the lag on the drag break, sometimes the car would anchor up ( i use lots of drag brake as i am lazy when pulling the stick back) and other times i would overshoot the apex by about 3 feet. I would consider myself as a consistent driver and my laptimes are usually within 2/10ths of eachother. i am struggling a bit in getting the consistency within that margin, not sure if the 13.5 are way faster than last year or the mmp?
i initially ran the timing at 35 degs and my nearest contender the lrp sxx was about the same speed, so i geared the ratio down 3 teeth (smaller pinion 64dp) and turned the timing up to 40 on the cheat mode, and the sxx turned the punch up also, i suspect he did not gear down though. well he was ahead of me by about 12-15 feet on the straight (80 metre) but by the end i had caught him up. so the timing was sweet. i think i could have geared down 1 more tooth at least if not 2.
summing up i think the mmp is rapid and now driveable, the lag on the drag break is really annoying and very noticable by me, used a nosram stock spec before and the breaks are awesome, really smooth. my rear diff screw snapped whilst leading the second final, I qualified 2nd in the A-main and won the 1st final, so was on for a win overall, had to retire. would have won except the poor standard rear diff construction on the HB cyclone sucks. nevermind replaced the screw now with an AE TC3 one!
so very positive on the powerband, should/could have won, drag break lag poor, other guys in 10.5 in practice could not drop me at all, one of the 10.5 top runners said my car was the fastest there in 13.5! race director came over and asked what ESC I was running, said the MMP and is one of the cheapest out there with an LRP x.12 13.5.
I did have a really bad cogging in the last qualy, it was slightly wet/damp in practice and rounds 1-3. I stripped the motor down and it was full of grit and dirt. flushed it out with motor spray and a cotton bud and let it dry in the sun, ran it again and fine. so anyone with cogging issues I would start with dirt in the motor/sensor board and not blame the ESC.
cheers
I still had an issue with the lag on the drag break, sometimes the car would anchor up ( i use lots of drag brake as i am lazy when pulling the stick back) and other times i would overshoot the apex by about 3 feet. I would consider myself as a consistent driver and my laptimes are usually within 2/10ths of eachother. i am struggling a bit in getting the consistency within that margin, not sure if the 13.5 are way faster than last year or the mmp?
i initially ran the timing at 35 degs and my nearest contender the lrp sxx was about the same speed, so i geared the ratio down 3 teeth (smaller pinion 64dp) and turned the timing up to 40 on the cheat mode, and the sxx turned the punch up also, i suspect he did not gear down though. well he was ahead of me by about 12-15 feet on the straight (80 metre) but by the end i had caught him up. so the timing was sweet. i think i could have geared down 1 more tooth at least if not 2.
summing up i think the mmp is rapid and now driveable, the lag on the drag break is really annoying and very noticable by me, used a nosram stock spec before and the breaks are awesome, really smooth. my rear diff screw snapped whilst leading the second final, I qualified 2nd in the A-main and won the 1st final, so was on for a win overall, had to retire. would have won except the poor standard rear diff construction on the HB cyclone sucks. nevermind replaced the screw now with an AE TC3 one!
so very positive on the powerband, should/could have won, drag break lag poor, other guys in 10.5 in practice could not drop me at all, one of the 10.5 top runners said my car was the fastest there in 13.5! race director came over and asked what ESC I was running, said the MMP and is one of the cheapest out there with an LRP x.12 13.5.
I did have a really bad cogging in the last qualy, it was slightly wet/damp in practice and rounds 1-3. I stripped the motor down and it was full of grit and dirt. flushed it out with motor spray and a cotton bud and let it dry in the sun, ran it again and fine. so anyone with cogging issues I would start with dirt in the motor/sensor board and not blame the ESC.
cheers
#953
Tech Adept
I think all your comments are spot on exactly with what I feel about this. The only issue I had with running 50% punch control was the power lag if I really gave it a bootfull under acceleration (which you shouldn't do anyway).
On the drag brake side, I also agree, however I now use a Speed Passion Version 1 that has a 12.5mm rotor and the brake issue has virtually been eliminated. If you can get hold of a 12.5mm rotor, then try it. It solves the brake issue. Having said that, do you run an X12? - That has a 12.5mm rotor and then maybe then it doesn't work for you.
I've figured out that this MMP has more outright power than any other esc out there. (maybe not for timing at top end, yet) This is why when you put the timing up over 30% on the esc and motor it turns it into a sledgehammer out of the corners. It spools up and gets to top speed in 1 second if I gear it at 6.00 for indoors!
The only way you can slow it down is by gearing it crazily low and turning down the timing, or the punch control at a high level. Racing with a new GM, also with a 13.5 on 50 degree timing, this Mamba had the edge. It was absolutely incredible on the straight.
I had (and still do to a point) have an issue with my consistentcy. Only after turning the punch control upto 50% for the final I was able to follow other cars closely without worrying about creaming into the back of the over cars under acceleration
This will sound completely stupid, but i'm going to try 4.5 ratio and put timing right down, as I was running 4.7 and put timing on the esc down to 40deg and it really started to calm the whole thing down and keep the same top speed. I used a high power fan and the motor lasted 5 mins with no issue. It just shows how much power the esc has because usually this kind of ratio is used for outdoors.
On the drag brake side, I also agree, however I now use a Speed Passion Version 1 that has a 12.5mm rotor and the brake issue has virtually been eliminated. If you can get hold of a 12.5mm rotor, then try it. It solves the brake issue. Having said that, do you run an X12? - That has a 12.5mm rotor and then maybe then it doesn't work for you.
I've figured out that this MMP has more outright power than any other esc out there. (maybe not for timing at top end, yet) This is why when you put the timing up over 30% on the esc and motor it turns it into a sledgehammer out of the corners. It spools up and gets to top speed in 1 second if I gear it at 6.00 for indoors!
The only way you can slow it down is by gearing it crazily low and turning down the timing, or the punch control at a high level. Racing with a new GM, also with a 13.5 on 50 degree timing, this Mamba had the edge. It was absolutely incredible on the straight.
I had (and still do to a point) have an issue with my consistentcy. Only after turning the punch control upto 50% for the final I was able to follow other cars closely without worrying about creaming into the back of the over cars under acceleration
This will sound completely stupid, but i'm going to try 4.5 ratio and put timing right down, as I was running 4.7 and put timing on the esc down to 40deg and it really started to calm the whole thing down and keep the same top speed. I used a high power fan and the motor lasted 5 mins with no issue. It just shows how much power the esc has because usually this kind of ratio is used for outdoors.
well got back yesterday after running the mmp in 13.5 at cotswold mcc in the UK. I have solved the undrivability issue by changing the punch control from 'unlimited' power to 70% and the car was rapid and quite easy to drive with a really nice powerband.
I still had an issue with the lag on the drag break, sometimes the car would anchor up ( i use lots of drag brake as i am lazy when pulling the stick back) and other times i would overshoot the apex by about 3 feet. I would consider myself as a consistent driver and my laptimes are usually within 2/10ths of eachother. i am struggling a bit in getting the consistency within that margin, not sure if the 13.5 are way faster than last year or the mmp?
i initially ran the timing at 35 degs and my nearest contender the lrp sxx was about the same speed, so i geared the ratio down 3 teeth (smaller pinion 64dp) and turned the timing up to 40 on the cheat mode, and the sxx turned the punch up also, i suspect he did not gear down though. well he was ahead of me by about 12-15 feet on the straight (80 metre) but by the end i had caught him up. so the timing was sweet. i think i could have geared down 1 more tooth at least if not 2.
summing up i think the mmp is rapid and now driveable, the lag on the drag break is really annoying and very noticable by me, used a nosram stock spec before and the breaks are awesome, really smooth. my rear diff screw snapped whilst leading the second final, I qualified 2nd in the A-main and won the 1st final, so was on for a win overall, had to retire. would have won except the poor standard rear diff construction on the HB cyclone sucks. nevermind replaced the screw now with an AE TC3 one!
so very positive on the powerband, should/could have won, drag break lag poor, other guys in 10.5 in practice could not drop me at all, one of the 10.5 top runners said my car was the fastest there in 13.5! race director came over and asked what ESC I was running, said the MMP and is one of the cheapest out there with an LRP x.12 13.5.
I did have a really bad cogging in the last qualy, it was slightly wet/damp in practice and rounds 1-3. I stripped the motor down and it was full of grit and dirt. flushed it out with motor spray and a cotton bud and let it dry in the sun, ran it again and fine. so anyone with cogging issues I would start with dirt in the motor/sensor board and not blame the ESC.
cheers
I still had an issue with the lag on the drag break, sometimes the car would anchor up ( i use lots of drag brake as i am lazy when pulling the stick back) and other times i would overshoot the apex by about 3 feet. I would consider myself as a consistent driver and my laptimes are usually within 2/10ths of eachother. i am struggling a bit in getting the consistency within that margin, not sure if the 13.5 are way faster than last year or the mmp?
i initially ran the timing at 35 degs and my nearest contender the lrp sxx was about the same speed, so i geared the ratio down 3 teeth (smaller pinion 64dp) and turned the timing up to 40 on the cheat mode, and the sxx turned the punch up also, i suspect he did not gear down though. well he was ahead of me by about 12-15 feet on the straight (80 metre) but by the end i had caught him up. so the timing was sweet. i think i could have geared down 1 more tooth at least if not 2.
summing up i think the mmp is rapid and now driveable, the lag on the drag break is really annoying and very noticable by me, used a nosram stock spec before and the breaks are awesome, really smooth. my rear diff screw snapped whilst leading the second final, I qualified 2nd in the A-main and won the 1st final, so was on for a win overall, had to retire. would have won except the poor standard rear diff construction on the HB cyclone sucks. nevermind replaced the screw now with an AE TC3 one!
so very positive on the powerband, should/could have won, drag break lag poor, other guys in 10.5 in practice could not drop me at all, one of the 10.5 top runners said my car was the fastest there in 13.5! race director came over and asked what ESC I was running, said the MMP and is one of the cheapest out there with an LRP x.12 13.5.
I did have a really bad cogging in the last qualy, it was slightly wet/damp in practice and rounds 1-3. I stripped the motor down and it was full of grit and dirt. flushed it out with motor spray and a cotton bud and let it dry in the sun, ran it again and fine. so anyone with cogging issues I would start with dirt in the motor/sensor board and not blame the ESC.
cheers
#954
what! 4.7? I was running 6.6 on the track below and its massive!
cant load the pic, here's the link
http://www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk/trackinfo.htm
cant load the pic, here's the link
http://www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk/trackinfo.htm
#955
Tech Adept
what! 4.7? I was running 6.6 on the track below and its massive!
cant load the pic, here's the link
http://www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk/trackinfo.htm
cant load the pic, here's the link
http://www.cotswoldmodelcarclub.co.uk/trackinfo.htm
6.6 wont actually loose much top end speed I found. It just gets there in a second, which can be like a drag car lol!
#956
little bit of video from cotswold mcc, sunday. top drivers qualifying include, ollie jeffries, chris grainger, glenn westwood and many others.... enjoy HD video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQjoOZpc0A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQjoOZpc0A
#957
youtube suck, they have optimised the quality. rubbish. that was crystal on laptop. rubbish!
#958
Tech Adept
#959
little bit of video from cotswold mcc, sunday. top drivers qualifying include, ollie jeffries, chris grainger, glenn westwood and many others.... enjoy HD video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQjoOZpc0A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XHQjoOZpc0A