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Old 07-26-2002, 12:25 AM   #1366
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For those of you who know your way around the business and have some view on the European market see some simmilarity withe the 414M hubs and can imagizine why this is........
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Old 07-26-2002, 12:26 AM   #1367
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thank you. they were a little small but still ok.........any close ups? or direct sites? to see?!
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Old 07-26-2002, 12:29 AM   #1368
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www.teamxray.com part on the Finnish championship

the other is taken from the VIP Room.
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Old 07-26-2002, 04:20 AM   #1369
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Default Re: C-Hub Conversion

Quote:
Originally posted by twistert1
R/C Nitro, I had the same problem when installing the kit on my car. I think this was designed for the new car. I've talked to a team driver that I race with, and he thought there shouldn't be a problem with the conversion, but his car has the new rear tower. I don't think the rear of the car will be right until we get the new tower. Buster said he still can't get the new tower. So, in the meantime, I've just made the rear shocks longer.
Thanks twistert1! Mario posted to the X-Ray room to redrill the tower and lower it. To do this I have to cut the lower part of the tower. I am concerned as I do not want to effects me returning to pillow ball when I run asphalt. Like you I will wait on the tower when Buster gets some in.

Can you tell me how much you had to lengthen the shocks? Stock is 77mm length. I did put the arms side by side last night. The mounting hole for the shock on the lower arm is definatly further out.

Arnoud. Thanks for the info.

All: Mario posted that there will be a new foam tire front tower coming soon.
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Old 07-26-2002, 04:43 AM   #1370
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Buster Bennett, don't you have to know how to set a car up first before you can write a book about it........
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Old 07-27-2002, 12:39 AM   #1371
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Teach, Please keep your rude comments to yourself. The Xray T1 forum is for mature adults only. We do not talk smack like in other forums that you take part in. Thank You.



Twister1, anytime, I am always willing to help.
BTW, making the shocks "longer" by unscrewing the ball end, will only make the pistons position inside the shock body higher when it is mounted on the car at normal ride height. The only reason to even measure the shocks fully extended length is to be sure that when you maximize the droop in the car, the shocks will not fully extend and bottom out. It is also to make sure that both the left and right shock (whether it be front or rear) pistons are always at the same position inside the shock body at any given length. If one shock is "longer" than the other, then the amount of oil on both sides of the piston (pack) would be different in each shock, which will give you uneven and inconsistant damping.
You would have to use a longer ball end, so that the relation of the center of the ball end, and the spring cup where further apart, this would effectivly lengthen the entire shock at any position.

Remember also, when you take a sealed shock with no spring on it, and push in on the shock shaft, it will and should rebound out on its own. The reason for this is becuase you are introducing the mass of the shock shaft into a sealed chamber full of oil, this increases the pressure inside the shock body, which will push the shock shaft back out. Depending on how you pack the oil, and how much of that pack you bleed out, will effect how much the shaft will rebound by itself. Some racers will drill a small hole in the shock cap BEHIND the bladder to keep this from happening, as they feel it will give more consistant damping. I have mixed feelings on that issue, but for the most part I always build my shocks with rebound. Each method has its pros and cons. Which I will go into more detail about that in my writings.
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Old 07-27-2002, 01:14 AM   #1372
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I just wanted to comment on one more thing, I know I am supposed to be writing a book about this sort of thing. But this is one area that I get most calls and emails on. So I figure if I write about it now, some of you can gain from it faster.


Topic of discussion....... DROOP

DROOP GAUGE MARKS MEAN NOTHING!!!!!!!!!
(did not expect to hear that huh?)

When your car is sitting static, take a measurement of the actual ride height. Then hold down on the rear tires and lift up on the rear of the chassis, and take a measurement again. Subtract the two numbers, and that is your actual droop. (Do the same for the front of the car)

Droop = Negative Suspension Travel

If at static you measured 5mm, and when you lift the chassis while holding the tires you measured 7mm. Your Negative Suspension Travel would be 2mm. So if someone ask you how much droop you have, you would answer. I have 2mm of droop, or negative suspension travel.

Now, here is where the droop gauges are important! Once you have established your rough droop settings, you must go back and take a droop measurement on each side of the car. You will want to make sure it is even on both sides, obviously. After you make sure they are equal, you will want to go back to the first method and recheck. For the first few times you do this method you may go back and forth a few times, but once you understand it, it will be fast and simple.

So why donít the droop gauge numbers mean anything?
Scenario:
Driver #1 reads 6mm on his droop gauge for the rear of his car.
Driver #2 asks driver #1 what his rear droop setting is.
Driver #1 says 6mm
Driver #2 sets his rear droop to 6mm
Both drivers are running 5mm ride height.

Letís say driver #1 was running 60mm tires, and driver #2 was running 57mm tires. Now think about the method of checking droop using ride height measurements........ Think both drivers really have the same droop? Nope, driver #1 is going to have 1.5mm more actual droop. 1.5mm!!!!!!!!! THATíS A LOT!!!

So why do people compare droop gauge readings? I really do not know the answer to that. I suppose that if everyone used the EXACT same tire, it may work. But why even get that complicated? Why not just standardize the method of measuring droop? I think it would be much easier, and understandable.

Same thing with gear ratio, comparing gear ratio only works if you are running the EXACT same size tire.........ok... I will save that one for later....
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Old 07-27-2002, 02:05 AM   #1373
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LOL....Buster, save it all for the book!
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Old 07-27-2002, 11:15 AM   #1374
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A source in Austin tells me Ron Atomic is reportedly racing an EVO2 and he, after two rounds of qualifying, is leading the 2002 On-Road Nationals in Colorado for Stock and 19 Spec.
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Old 07-27-2002, 12:59 PM   #1375
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Yeap. Ron is running the new car with the new suspension and is TQ in 19 turn by 7 seconds and tied with Alex Lopez for TQ in Stock.

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Old 07-28-2002, 10:09 PM   #1376
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Are there any previous Shumacher owners who now drive the X-ray T-1 or the Evo2? I currently drive the Mission and I'm trying to compare the two. I'm thinking of buying the Evo2.
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Old 07-29-2002, 01:55 AM   #1377
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I was just wondering if anyone can tell me any dealer that has the Evo 2 in stock? LMK and thanks.
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Old 07-29-2002, 07:27 AM   #1378
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Les at www.mdiracing.com has one in stock, I saw it this weekend when I picked mine up.
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Old 07-29-2002, 01:01 PM   #1379
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Default EVO2

yes, we do have the Xray EVO2 in stock. It's $329.99 thanks...
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Old 07-31-2002, 08:15 PM   #1380
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Default Xray vs. TC3

For anyone who can answer honestly. Ive been racing a TC3 since the first day it came out. Ive also been reading alot about the new EVO2 and was thinking of trying it out. I want to know if anyone has had a TC3 and has switched to XRAY? If you have, what does the T1 or new EVO2 have to offer that I cant get with my TC3?
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