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Old 07-17-2002, 06:37 PM   #1321
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The speedo was an LRM Quantum Competition.. I now know to tape it around the body of the enclosure so this doesn't happen again. As far as the 1/12th scale car, I am running a CRC Carpet Knife v3.1 with a 12 triple in it.. the car is a missle!

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Old 07-18-2002, 05:26 AM   #1322
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I know what your talking about. I had to CA glue my tabs as the unit came apart twice on me. Luckly when I was removing batteries and not in a oops. Best of luck and thanks for the reply
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Old 07-18-2002, 05:02 PM   #1323
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You guys in the states are so lucky, here in the UK we are still waiting for the new car to arrive allong with the optional suspension. I dont know what the holdup is but i cannot wait to get my hands on one asap. Rick
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Old 07-18-2002, 09:42 PM   #1324
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Guys,

I am sure this is not new info for you here, but I called Buster today and he was about the most helpful guy I have run into in a long time.

Talk about knowledge about the X-Ray!!! WOW!!!

I ordered some shock parts from him today and I just wanted to say thanks here on the forum. I'm sure I am jumping on the bandwagon, but this is a new car to me and he was a great resource....

Thanks to all you guys helping me out with this car...it drives friggen awesome. I have never driven that consistant in my life!!!
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Old 07-20-2002, 01:33 AM   #1325
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Got my cars today and I was trying to take the top deck off of one but of the ten hex wrenches I have none of them fit? Is there one certain size? If so who makes it? I would appreciate any help because I have three stripped screws already! Thanks.
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Old 07-20-2002, 04:59 AM   #1326
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The top screws should use a 2.0mm wrench.
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Old 07-20-2002, 08:12 AM   #1327
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highx....

Whatever you do... DO NOT crank down on those like a gorilla!!!! The aluminim screws will lock up with the fiber of the carbon top deck and will not come out! Make the screws snug but not like you would on something metal to metal. I speak from experience.

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Old 07-20-2002, 08:23 AM   #1328
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Actually the factory screws aren`t aluminum,they`re a cheap steel,I`ve drilled out a bunch. It`s the only bad part of the hole car, thats why I replaced all of them with an aftermarket screw.
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Old 07-20-2002, 08:28 AM   #1329
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The aftermarket screws.. can you crank them and take them out after? Also if the car gets taken out and cracks into a board, will the screws allow the carbon to return to place or will it hold tweak and need resetting like the screws in the kit?

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Old 07-21-2002, 12:23 AM   #1330
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The ones I`ve been using are pretty tough,I haven`t stripped one yet. You can get them from www.microfasteners.com or www.fastener-express.com . The later also has aluminum if thats your thing.
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Old 07-21-2002, 05:59 AM   #1331
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Hi Guys

Anyone know what shops have the evo 2 kit in stock, and how much is it?

I am getting a new one, and wanted to knowwhether to get one by mail, or locally
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Old 07-21-2002, 08:46 AM   #1332
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Hey I have some questions about the T1..

1. If I get an 11x2 or 12x2 motor should I keep the gearing stock?

2. What is stock Gearing on the T1?

3. Does the T1 come stock with Aluminum Bulkheads and Graphite Shock Towers?

4. With the 2 Battery Brackets will I be able to use stick pack? I will also Tape Them Down through the Cell Slots on the Chassis..

Thank You....
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Old 07-21-2002, 11:06 AM   #1333
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1). On my Xray when I bought it the included gearing was 24/90, which works out to be 7.97. I had a very early kit and I'm not sure gears are included anymore. I would start with 24/93 combo.

2).See above

3). Yes, it comes with alu bulkheads and graphite shock towers. For other specs, check here: http://www.teamxray.com

4). Maybe, I'm not sure. You might be able to use them without the straps and just tape them in, but I'm not sure.
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Old 07-21-2002, 11:12 AM   #1334
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Hi Dark2G,

1. What is the best gearing depends on the track you are riding on. An average staring point is at a final driving ration of 7.0 for a 12x2 (= 93x 28)

2. I run about the same gearing at my local race track when racing stock. But getting somewhere in between 6 and 7 final drive ratio is again a good staring point. It also depends (at least in my opinion) on your own driving style (if you need more acceleration start at a higher figure) and motor type.

Out of the box the car has a 93x24

3. This would be a yes for both. Great car! Top parts!

4. I would give this a NO! Even though it may be possible to have the batteries in it like this for some time, you will losse your pack after a big hit. I would suggest rebuilding your sticks to saddles or get the stick pack option (works great with a felow driver) or try to build something like that yourself.
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Old 07-22-2002, 05:25 AM   #1335
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Kansasracer, Buster saved me some headaches. Just ordered the C hub conversion.

Ran X-Ray on the touring oval, now that I have replaced the bad shock shaft, the car is on rails!! I raced this instead of my TC3 saturday and did my best time yet and made the "A" main!! If the c hub is better... WOW!!. I have a question though, on the start I am getting out jumped no mater what I do. I have tried both motors GM3 and P2K2. All the other cars are TC3's runnig either GM3's or MVP, rollout is at 25. Is this normall to get jumped like this? I just switched to 64 ptich and I noticed that the X-Ray wants a lower rollout than the TC3. P2K2 I go up one pinion over the GM3. Go the best times from a GM3. Suggestions?

F1: Thanks for the setting tips!! Car rac great saturday!!
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