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Old 01-16-2011, 01:48 PM   #12526
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Originally Posted by UrabusDenis View Post
A stupid question ...

T2/T3 shocks should fit T1 without any problems ?
They should, but they are shorter so be careful Well they were changed to shorter during T2 series (I belive it was with 008)
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Old 01-16-2011, 01:50 PM   #12527
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yes they do, but i'm not sure if the internal parts can be swapped...

Ok guys... i got the car hooked up nicely... just need to work on my driving skills... one big mechanical problem i am currently facing is the constant failure of the 3mm
plastic drive shaft caps... I am running a spool up front... every time i make a run, the plastic caps go a away... anyone else having this experience? suggestions? fixes...
any help will be appreciated...

Alien
I guess best bet would be getting T2/3 front plastic spool that doesn't use blades. That would change your internal drive ratio and you would have to change rear as well. I guess there isnt any other option.
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Old 01-16-2011, 01:56 PM   #12528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angry-alien View Post
yes they do, but i'm not sure if the internal parts can be swapped...

Ok guys... i got the car hooked up nicely... just need to work on my driving skills... one big mechanical problem i am currently facing is the constant failure of the 3mm
plastic drive shaft caps... I am running a spool up front... every time i make a run, the plastic caps go a away... anyone else having this experience? suggestions? fixes...
any help will be appreciated...

Alien
Good day!

That is the drawback of a spool, when you tap the wall there is no give and parts fail. Untill I am a mutch better driver, I will not use a spool. I have not tried this yet but have been told if you use a ball diff with no balls but install thin cardboard rings on both sides to fill in the gap and grease them, you can tighten it to almost work like a spool but it will have some give when you tap the wall.
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Old 01-16-2011, 02:09 PM   #12529
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what are those webbed tubes on wires? Where you can get them? they look great
They are wire sleeves... I got them from ebay i think... I think you can find them in most electronics stores...

Ebay google

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Old 01-16-2011, 02:44 PM   #12530
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Originally Posted by angry-alien View Post
They are wire sleeves... I got them from ebay i think... I think you can find them in most electronics stores...

Ebay google

Alien
Thank you very much. I didn't know what term to search for. I always liked it on SP sensor wires
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Old 01-16-2011, 06:55 PM   #12531
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Good day!

That is the drawback of a spool, when you tap the wall there is no give and parts fail. Untill I am a mutch better driver, I will not use a spool. I have not tried this yet but have been told if you use a ball diff with no balls but install thin cardboard rings on both sides to fill in the gap and grease them, you can tighten it to almost work like a spool but it will have some give when you tap the wall.
Yeah... I did some reading on the xray forum and it seems to be a common problem with spools since there is no give... I guess I'll try to hit the walls a little less and learn to drive a little smoother...

Quote:
Originally Posted by lochness42 View Post
I guess best bet would be getting T2/3 front plastic spool that doesn't use blades. That would change your internal drive ratio and you would have to change rear as well. I guess there isnt any other option.
The T2/T3 spool won't work on the T1 unfortunately, but I am looking to the caps they use.... they are a little wider than the T1's (T1 is 3mm and T2's is 3.5mm)... I'll see how it goes...

thanks guys...
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:15 AM   #12532
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I'm actually thinking about running the battery as should be on this car ( like angry-alien , perpendicular to the belt ), what do you think about the idea ?
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:26 AM   #12533
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I'm actually thinking about running the battery as should be on this car ( like angry-alien , perpendicular to the belt ), what do you think about the idea ?
It is the easyest way to do it and it seems to work for others. I personaly think it will give the car too mutch roll with the batery hanging out the sides.

Now after saying that, one racer in our club has his set up that way and it is working quite well. Different tracks, driving technics and car setups can make a large differance in how it will work.

Just try it and see how it works for you. I would put some velcrow on top of the battery and under the battery straps so the battery willl not slide.
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:44 PM   #12534
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Thanks for the advice ! I had it the modern way , battery on one side and electronics on the other side . I'll try this way so we'll see how it goes
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Old 01-22-2011, 02:17 PM   #12535
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Hey UrabusDenis, did you finish your build? can you post of some pics of the finished layout?

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Old 01-22-2011, 03:18 PM   #12536
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Sorry , not finished yet , here it's still winter and cold temperature with lots of rain , the outdoor season wont start until March I'm afraid so I still didn't start the rebuilt . It's all about 1:18 at the moment so 1:10 is collecting dust
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Old 01-23-2011, 07:15 AM   #12537
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Ah... okay... well let us see it when you are done... I recently added a few goodies to my Chassis, so I'll post them up soon...

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Old 01-27-2011, 11:35 PM   #12538
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Hey guys. I have some new in package T1 parts that have been sitting forever. Let me know if anyone needs em.

Front and Rear Arms
Sway bars
Steering blocks
Eccentric suspension holders
C hubs.
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:03 AM   #12539
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PM me a list of these parts and the costing...
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:12 AM   #12540
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If he doesn't take them, let me know how much you want with shipping to Massachusetts. Thanks.
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