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Old 09-18-2010, 12:22 PM   #12406
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
actually any lipo batteries can fit on these older chassis, you just have to remove the hard casing, thats what i did...
Good day!

Why would you do that? You can get hard case lipos to fit almost anything these days and most all racing events do not allow soft packs. I had my 2 cell pack across the back to start as you can see int the earlyer post. I have since moved it to on side to keep the weight more centered. I will post pictures when I get home from work.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:38 PM   #12407
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Hi guys,
I have an FK05that used to be my sons and I would like to start racing with it. It is in very good nick except for the front body posts. They are buggered and I have tried all over the place to get new ones without any luck. Any suggestions on where I could source some? It's ok I have searched back through the posts and found some at THE SHACK. Great shop I wish I had found it sooner.

Thanks

Terry
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Last edited by Team Ash; 09-18-2010 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 09-18-2010, 08:32 PM   #12408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCbud View Post
Good day!

Why would you do that? You can get hard case lipos to fit almost anything these days and most all racing events do not allow soft packs. I had my 2 cell pack across the back to start as you can see int the earlyer post. I have since moved it to on side to keep the weight more centered. I will post pictures when I get home from work.
hi there, not to sound rude or anyhting, but you live in a 1st world country where you have lots of choices, i live in a 3rd world country with not many choices, of course i could buy by mail order, but getting accurate battery dimensions over the net is almost impossible. and in my country, its ok to remove the lipo casing for racing.
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Old 09-18-2010, 08:48 PM   #12409
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Originally Posted by alcyon View Post
hi there, not to sound rude or anyhting, but you live in a 1st world country where you have lots of choices, i live in a 3rd world country with not many choices, of course i could buy by mail order, but getting accurate battery dimensions over the net is almost impossible. and in my country, its ok to remove the lipo casing for racing.
You did not say that in your first post. I sounded like you were saying it is ok for everyone to do this when it is not. Our club folows the basic ROAR racing rules and that means all lipos must be hard case. Since you decided it is ok to not use hard case batteries is your choice but do not recomend it to others.
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Last edited by BCbud; 09-18-2010 at 10:24 PM. Reason: sssspeliiing
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Old 09-18-2010, 09:12 PM   #12410
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Good day!

Pics of the new battery position.
Attached Thumbnails
Xray T1-t-fk04-1.jpg   Xray T1-t1fk04-2.jpg   Xray T1-t1fk04-3.jpg  
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Old 09-23-2010, 11:13 AM   #12411
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I just got a used T1 and it looks really nice, very few scratches on the bottom and everything turns smoothly.

It looks to be stone stock, no sway bars or any add on's.

I have a couple of questions though.,,

What is a good servo for the T1, I'm partial to HiTec myself ?

And are there any recommended upgrades for the T1 ?

Planning on using it for VTA but would like to get another T1 or T2 also

thanks
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:45 PM   #12412
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Dude that looks cool... the older cars with centred motor and lipo down the side.. awsome. looks really balanced.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BCbud View Post
Good day!

Pics of the new battery position.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:07 PM   #12413
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefox View Post
I just got a used T1 and it looks really nice, very few scratches on the bottom and everything turns smoothly.

It looks to be stone stock, no sway bars or any add on's.

I have a couple of questions though.,,

What is a good servo for the T1, I'm partial to HiTec myself ?

And are there any recommended upgrades for the T1 ?

Planning on using it for VTA but would like to get another T1 or T2 also

thanks
Good day!

Try to get the best servo you can aford, look for metal gears and fast 60* speed, a good servo will last you a long time. As far as upgrades, run the car as is and then concider addressing any handling problems as they arise. For VTA you probably will not need much but you may concider spring steel outdrives in the front for derability.
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Old 09-23-2010, 05:11 PM   #12414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warnos View Post
Dude that looks cool... the older cars with centred motor and lipo down the side.. awsome. looks really balanced.
Thanks and yes it is verry balanced. As I am not the best driver this car works well for me and is realy strong. I only broke a c-hub all season and I have had my share of crashes. The club member I bought it from bought a newer car and has broken many parts this year and he is a bit better driver than I am lol!
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:23 PM   #12415
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Hi Guys, I wanted to share my T1 EVO2 build with you... and maybe get some setup advise too...

Here you go...

Upgraded with:

Aluminum C-Hub suspension option set - rear
Aluminum C-Hub suspension option set - front
Anti-Roll Bar front and rear 2mm sets
Belt Tensioner Set
Multi-Diff
Solid aluminum central Layshaft
Blue - soft-medium springs
Rear bumper
Lots of screws

Body:
Protoform LTCR (pending)

Electrics:
LRP - Vector X12 4.5 turn - 7900kv
LRP - Sphere Competition - will run a 3 turn motor
Airtronics - 94360M Servo - 125oz - .07 sec. at 6 volts
Airtronics 92324 3-Channel FHSS 2.4GHz Receiver

Numbers:
FDR (final drive ratio): 2.125 (drive ratio) X 99/24 (spur divided by pinion) = 8.76 FDR (8.6 was recommended for the motor on small tracks)


the numbers:

Differential Ratio: 2.125
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 99
Pinion Tooth Count: 24
Total Voltage: 8.4
Motor KV: 7900
Tire Diameter (inches): 2.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 4.13 : 1
Total Ratio: 8.76563 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 7.85 inches (199.49 mm)
Rollout: 0.90:1
Total Motor Speed: 66360 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 56.31 mph (90.45 km/h)


I hope you guys like it..

Alien
Attached Thumbnails
Xray T1-dsc_8812.jpg   Xray T1-dsc_8816.jpg   Xray T1-dsc_8808.jpg   Xray T1-dsc_8829.jpg  
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Old 10-09-2010, 06:49 PM   #12416
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Good day!

That thing must fly with a 4.5! I have the same servo in mine and it works well. Mine used to be mounted like yours is untill it got hit and broke the ears off one side. I have now moved the servo in further and mounted it with Lapages "No More Nails" product line of mounting tape. I mounted the arm on the servo side of the steering horn and the arm in a streight line front to back. The servo is about 1/8th inch inside the chassis.I ran this car and my pro-10 car with the servo taped in and did not have it fail for the last 1/3rd of the season. I am now running my 1/12th with the servo taped in but I only have 1 race on that so far. The tape has a bit of give so when hit, it will help absorb some of the shock.
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Last edited by BCbud; 10-12-2010 at 08:19 PM.
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Old 10-10-2010, 01:03 AM   #12417
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Hi There... yeah, i hope to get some track time soon to see how well the 4.5 will do... thanks for the heads up on the servo layout... I will definitely have to revise the current mounting position to prevent any damage to it...

Thanks
Alien
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:38 PM   #12418
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angry-alien View Post
Hi Guys, I wanted to share my T1 EVO2 build with you... and maybe get some setup advise too...

Here you go...

Upgraded with:

Aluminum C-Hub suspension option set - rear
Aluminum C-Hub suspension option set - front
Anti-Roll Bar front and rear 2mm sets
Belt Tensioner Set
Multi-Diff
Solid aluminum central Layshaft
Blue - soft-medium springs
Rear bumper
Lots of screws

Body:
Protoform LTCR (pending)

Electrics:
LRP - Vector X12 4.5 turn - 7900kv
LRP - Sphere Competition - will run a 3 turn motor
Airtronics - 94360M Servo - 125oz - .07 sec. at 6 volts
Airtronics 92324 3-Channel FHSS 2.4GHz Receiver

Numbers:
FDR (final drive ratio): 2.125 (drive ratio) X 99/24 (spur divided by pinion) = 8.76 FDR (8.6 was recommended for the motor on small tracks)


the numbers:

Differential Ratio: 2.125
Transmission Ratio: 1
Other Ratio: 1
Spur Tooth Count: 99
Pinion Tooth Count: 24
Total Voltage: 8.4
Motor KV: 7900
Tire Diameter (inches): 2.5
Tire Ballooning (inches): 0
Motor Current Draw: 0
Motor Coil Resistance: 0
Spur/Pinion Ratio: 4.13 : 1
Total Ratio: 8.76563 : 1
Tire Circumference (inches): 7.85 inches (199.49 mm)
Rollout: 0.90:1
Total Motor Speed: 66360 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 56.31 mph (90.45 km/h)


I hope you guys like it..

Alien




I LIKE!!!!!!! i have all those same hop ups minus the belt tensioner...what did u use to shim those battery straps? and doesnt the belt rub against the lipo
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Old 10-11-2010, 09:08 PM   #12419
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Can you still purchase parts for the FK 04 chassis?
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Old 10-12-2010, 12:58 AM   #12420
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gorillakev View Post
I LIKE!!!!!!! i have all those same hop ups minus the belt tensioner...what did u use to shim those battery straps? and doesnt the belt rub against the lipo
Hey Gorillakev, thanks man... the hold downs were shimmed at the base of their risers with small plastic 2mm shims (2 per riser, giving a 4mm lift for each) i got for my e-maxx's suspension arms...


Alien
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