teamgp

Interesting setup. It looks like the extra thick chassis takes away from your steering so much that you're having to compensate with a huge amount of weight transfer to the front on corner entry (high rear ride height, pro-dive & pro-squat, a lot of rear droop) and mid corner (front shocks leaned in more than rear).

How is it running compared to the TRF415 now?

big al

iTrader: (10)

Hey my fellow xray owners..I've got a question for you.
I'm having a hard time finding the the lower suspension holders for the t1r (302042). I have the long arms,Would the susp. mounts from the '04 fit (302040,302032) if I just mount them like the t1r mounts??. Also,do they sell a complete short arm conversion?? Thanks in advance--Al

dado11g

iTrader: (1)

idk about your parts, but all you need to switch to the short arms is that arms themselves. they dont shorten the the width like some people think, the just mount on the other side of the bulkheads, its really easy. and it works well, you should make the switch

cheehtae

iTrader: (15)

Dado11g what's the benefit of having short arms than the long arms? I've been wanting to make the switch for a long time it's just I have a lot of spare long arms that's keeping me from switching, I guess I would need a good reason to switch.

Thnks

big al

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, I finally got some decent practice and race time in this weekend. The only improvement I need so far is more exit steering. I have to come off the throttle more than I would like,but otherwise car felt pretty good. i could keep the same lines lap after lap. PLease look over my set-up sheet and give me any advice you think might give me that little extra coming out of the corner. Hold on,gotta figure out how to load up the pdf file..sorry Thanks--Al

teamgp

You could post it on the Xray forum setup sheet section and use the Title and Notes sections to show what type of T1 you have and things like saddle pack placement and such. Here's one I did for my previous fk04:

http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/xform...1&setup=t1fk05

big al

iTrader: (10)

Ok, here is the setup. As I said in my previous post,I just needed a little more exit steering,had to let off more than I wanted to. I have a full warpspeed graphite conversion (chassis,upper deck,shock towers). Once I came uon this set up, car felt a little under powered(except in hairpins). Thanks for any info guys. Thanks to teamgp for your help as well. Thanks--Al

teamgp

If you can, measure the actual "droop" of the front and rear arms and let me know what they come out to be. They should be anywhere in between 1.5 to 2.5mm front droop and 2.5 to 3.5mm rear droop. I've figured out how to come up with the actual droop from the downstop & ride height settings of the FK and FK05, but I've never had a T1R. If the dimensions are similar in the front, having your front downstop set to 1 should give you a front droop setting of 2.5 to 3.0mm which is probably causing too much weight to shift to the rear on-power. I'm not sure at all about the rear though since you've measured the downstop under the arm and not the hub. If your front droop comes out to be above 2.0mm, then I would raise your front downstop from 1 to 2 before trying any of the other suggestions below.

If the front downstop setting is ok, try moving the rear upper shock mount out one hole to #4. If this causes any type of over steer and/or doesn't fix the on-power push, then move it back and change your outer steering rod ackerman position to #1 on the steering blocks. You'll probably need to dial down your steering EPA anywhere from 5 to 10 points when you change the steering rod ackerman position.

big al

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the input TeamGp!! unfortunately, I won't be able to race again until the 24th of sept.,but I will definitely use your advice. Thanks--Al

big al

iTrader: (10)

Hey TeamGP, would using the xrc thick chassis w/the batteries moved forward help my exit steering problem or make it worse?? Thanks--Al

teamgp

Without changing any of your current setup, you would probably lose too much grip all the way around. I was able to get a stiff FK05 2.5mm chassis setup with wide deck, all four stands w/3mm coned washers under mounting screws & soft springs to work pretty good on asphalt this summer. But it took a lot of time to get it right as every small change was noticeable. And after I dialed it in, I took out the side stands and placed two o-rings under the front two screws of the upper deck to loosen the chassis up and the car was even more on rails. Using a stiff chassis helped to dial in the setup, but it wasn't necessarily needed or better to race on low to medium grip asphalt in my experience.

But hey, I'm an engineer at heart. If your curious, the only true answer relevant to the environment your racing in is to test it.

big al

iTrader: (10)

Thanks TeamGP,you're insight is always invaluable. I kinda wanna try it as the chassis is just sitting there..maybe just for fun.--Al

big al

iTrader: (10)

I just realized that my rear wheelbases were out of whack. Left rear was shorter than right. That's gotta count for something-Al

teamgp

That should have resulted in your car pulling to the left on power. And if you corrected it with a little steering trim to the right, then it probably wanted to oversteer some in right turns and/or push in left turns while on the brakes at corner entry.

zinger77

iTrader: (2)

looking for set up sheet for foam tires on carpet ?