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Old 08-02-2005, 11:21 AM   #11971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XrayT1Evo2
I won, still using pivot ball suspension.

Hit the track boards throughout the day but no breakage...
ofcoarse, with two year old batteries I wasn't going very fast!

Fell asleep driving down the straight, next year I'll race modified too.
whats wrong with pivot ball? it super tough and very ajustable. does the chub conv. work better?
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:24 PM   #11972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Very unusual, even for myself. Use holes 4 & 5 in the front and 1 & 2 in the rear. You can also try the following in order:

* Switch to white springs in the rear (your springs are more than likely way too soft and are actually causing the inside rear tire to unload.
* Lower rear ride height to 5.5
* Move to 3d rear toe-in
Thanks for your advice, I appreciated it. BTW, can't go 4 & 5 since the main chassis is 5mm thick, not enough front ride height. I will try 2 & 3 for front and 1 & 2 in the rear, 5.5mm rear ride height, 3 deg. rear toe in.

pics of my car if you interested to see 5mm chassis :

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Old 08-02-2005, 12:34 PM   #11973
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I'm not knocking pivot ball suspension, I'm praising it. Since returning to sedans recently, I'm the only "So Cal local" Xray T1 owner I know, still racing with pivot ball.

You're right about the pivot ball system. And it has very little slop. Only one area I can knock. As the front wheels are repeatedly hit, the lower pivot ball rocks back; widening the pivot ball hole in the lower A-arm and slightly throwing off camber, caster, and toe. I don't notice the change on the track.

C-hub system supposedly adds steering. Adjustability is limited to the parts you have, i.e. # degree caster blocks. And less durable than the pivot ball system. I've been given parts to try the C-hub system but I need to pick up the hubs still. As of now I'll try it once I've exhausted myself on the pivot ball system.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:18 PM   #11974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
pics of my car if you interested to see 5mm chassis :

Unfortunately myy company's firewall is blocking that website.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:20 PM   #11975
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Default chub convertion

is it worth getting the chubs over the pivot ball?
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:35 PM   #11976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom235
is it worth getting the chubs over the pivot ball?
Yep.
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:46 PM   #11977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgp
Yep.
what does it give you over the pivot ball
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Old 08-02-2005, 01:59 PM   #11978
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ASW - that's a very unusual setup you've got there--I've got to agree with TeamGP on that one.

I know you mentioned that you've already completed the chassis, but 5mm on low-medium grip asphalt is asking for trouble. As you can see, the window you have between being extremely loose and extremely tight is incredibly narrow. That's the problem with using a chassis that's not properly suited to the track conditions, (i.e.: overly stiff chassis on asphalt, overly flexible chassis on carpet). It's very hard to find the exact setup you need. AND, once ambient and track temperature changes set in, it gets even more difficult to find the middle-ground.

Having said all of that (--go back to a thin chassis-- ) TeamGP's suggestions are good. My other question is why are you running Sorex40s on such a loose track? Have you tried running a cooler tire like a RP30 or CS27? Also, as was mentioned, excessive rake from rear to front when the car is super sensitive is probably not a good idea as the rear tires will not load up easily enough off-power and the rear end will want to slide around like a breakdancer .
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Old 08-07-2005, 10:05 AM   #11979
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Default no punch at all

I raced again last night after 4 mos. of hiatus my ever faithful T1 raycer although not really as fast as my friends TC4, the t1 was very consistent and reliable though, here is the scenario both me and my friend ( his running tc4) runs the same motor P2k2 pro dunno about his gearing, but on the first heat my gearing was 93/23 it was quick on accel. but not really fast on straight aways, next heat twas 24/93,then 25/93 and in the Amain twas 24/93/.Still no punch, I chrge my batts at 6 amp with indy 16x2 pro.question how can I get more speed and punch , what will it do if I would use the optional Low gear ratiom, BTW I am running offroad electric so my battery is always in used but discharged and cycle after everyrace. Any help will be appreciated.

Last edited by GCT69; 08-07-2005 at 07:02 PM.
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Old 08-07-2005, 12:06 PM   #11980
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Switching to the low-ratio pulleys will improve your acceleration because of the lower FDR (1.77 compared to 2.125)
As far as your motor, I think you are undergeared. Try running a Monster and gear up to the mid 6 range.
Also, you need to at least keep a few packs fresh for racing, main at least!
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Old 08-07-2005, 12:59 PM   #11981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GCT69
I raced again last night after 4 mos. of hiatus my ever faithful T1 raycer although not really as fast as my friends TC4 it was very consistent and reliable, here is the scenario both me and my friend ( his running tc4) runs the same motor P2k2 pro dunno about his gearing, but on the first heat my gearing was 93/23 it was quick on accel. but not really fast on straight aways, next heat twas 24/93,then 25/93 and in the Amain twas 24/93/.Still no punch, I chrge my batts at 6 amp with indy 16x2 pro.question how can I get more speed and punch , what will it do if I would use the optional Low gear ratiom, BTW I am running offroad electric so my battery is always in used but discharged and cycle after everyrace. Any help will be appreciated.

You were running a 8.59 final which is to tall for that motor = no punch
The best you could do with a 93 is a 31 tooth pinion it'll give you a 6.38 or a 30 would give you a 6.59 with the 2.125 gears
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Old 08-07-2005, 01:10 PM   #11982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deves
You were running a 8.59 final which is to tall for that motor = no punch
The best you could do with a 93 is a 31 tooth pinion it'll give you a 6.38 or a 30 would give you a 6.59 with the 2.125 gears
That sounds like what I said.
Anyways, a 31 tooth pinion is going to be a very tight fit, if you can get it to fit
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:05 PM   #11983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micros_rock
As far as your motor, I think you are undergeared. Try running a Monster and gear up to the mid 6 range.

BTW the track is carpet and has a very long straight aways I would estimate the straight away to be 40 ft. its a very fast track that's the reason I was using the P2k2, you think monster pro is still OK? What about epic binary pro, outlaw?
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Old 08-07-2005, 07:35 PM   #11984
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The Monster and Binary are both real good motors for rpm. I race outdoors on asphalt and the straight is about 140 feet. As Micro's said the 1.77's will give you more punch for a smaller track. Give them a try and you might want a couple of batteries just for onroad use.
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Old 08-07-2005, 10:10 PM   #11985
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1.77 Low ratio more punch?? Not on my cars.. Maybe I'm doing something wrong,I run on an 80x40 carpet track and the low ratio pulley set does not seem to work well in stock on this track.I have tried alot of different set ups and motors and for me the stock pulley set works better,I put in about 4hrs of practice 4 times a week and race 2 times a week as well..track rat..
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