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Old 07-31-2005, 03:56 PM   #11956
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micros_rock
Had a really annoying problem this weekend at Hitec. I glued brand new tires onto Xenon rims, but the rims kept working themselves loose (and then flying off) as hard as I screwed them on. It seems that the Xenon rims don't quite fit the Xray hubs. Anyone?
The washer that is used with the wheel screw has a coned shape. make sure the point of the cone is facing outwards of the wheel. In otherwards the point of the cone to the head of the screw




screw
/\ cone wsher
wheel

the force of flatening the cone will keep constant pressure on the screw so it does not back off.

come on someone that can design a motor cooler should know this
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Old 07-31-2005, 04:03 PM   #11957
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Haha, real funny. Yes, I know how the washers go on. What I was saying is that the Xenon rims that I had didn't match up exactly to the Xray hub, so there was a tiny bit of play between the hub and the rim. Wondering if anyone else had noticed this, as I have never had this happen with other brands. Oh well.

howard hudson, I'm sorry I had a question, I guess forums are not the place to ask them anymore
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Old 07-31-2005, 04:05 PM   #11958
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micros_rock
Haha, real funny. Yes, I know how the washers go on. What I was saying is that the Xenon rims that I had didn't match up exactly to the Xray hub, so there was a tiny bit of play between the hub and the rim. Wondering if anyone else had noticed this, as I have never had this happen with other brands. Oh well.

howard hudson, I'm sorry I had a question, I guess forums are not the place to ask them anymore
wasnt trying to be funny pal


whats your real name ???
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what the heck is r/c car??? ( said in your best redneck voice)

'OL BUZZARD FARMING (lol)

Last edited by howard hudson; 07-31-2005 at 04:23 PM.
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Old 07-31-2005, 10:25 PM   #11959
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?? Step Daddy..
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Old 08-01-2005, 12:17 AM   #11960
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Hey guys! I just picked a t1r in near fk'o4 specs(minus short arms) Do any of you have a set-up for asphalt/rubber. I live in the bay area,ca. Typically we run cs-22/27 sorex 28/32/36..the usuals. Thanks--Al
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:22 AM   #11961
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Default Need info of t1 FK05

Hello

I would like to buy the T1 FK05 but i don't know what hop-up i need ?
Some body can tell me what i need to buy in plus to directly do championship like anti roll bar ?mm, springs colors, arms medium or hard ....
Thank you very much
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:26 AM   #11962
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stefb
I would like to buy the T1 FK05 but i don't know what hop-up i need ?
Here's my thoughts.

For foam/carpet racing:

* Wide upper deck (#301165) cheaper than 3mm chassis
* Front foam shock tower (#302095)
* Ultimate racing spring set (#308380)
* Short HARD arms (Ft #302160 & Rr #303160)
* Front anti-roll bar (#302460 & 1mm bar #302471)

== Notable mentions for foam/carpet:

* 3mm chassis (#301113) stiffer than stock chassis & wide upper deck
* 3 hole composite steering blocks (Rt #302251 & Lt #302261)
* Rear aluminum hubs with out-board toe-in (2d #303357 or 1d #303356)
* Shock foam inserts (#308090)
* Front spring steel hex hubs for Mod class (#305315)

For rubber/asphalt racing:

* Multi-diff (#305102) if you have a US kit with front ball diff
* 2mm chassis (#301114)
* Ultimate racing spring set (#308380)
* Rear aluminum hubs with out-board toe-in (2d #303357 or 1d #303356)
* Front spring steel hex hubs for Mod class (#305315)

The spring steel hex hubs are good, but heavy if you are racing in the stock class. You can sand the inside lips of the original hex hubs about 1mm, with a Dremel tool, to prevent the dogbones from pushing against them at full lock steering and flaring them out.

Last edited by teamgp; 08-01-2005 at 09:45 AM.
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:34 AM   #11963
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thank you very much.
I used my car in asphalt with rubber tire if some body give me some advice or part i need for this.
Thank you again
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:44 AM   #11964
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The last part of my reply is for rubber/asphalt.

If your purchasing the kit that comes with the multi-diff, then I'd suggest the following:

* 2mm chassis (#301114)
* Blue springs for higher grip tracks (#308395)
* Rear aluminum hubs with out-board toe-in (2d #303357 or 1d #303356)

You shouldn't need an anti-roll bar.
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:53 AM   #11965
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Default T1 too loose

Need some advice guys, i have a T1 with a fk04 chassis and top deck battery position is in the left side and I'm running foam on carpet, I'm having problem with it cuz its too loose, my setup is same as Michael Praest any help would be appreciate.
LMK if you need more info.

and i did try to adjust the shock position out to third hole, this made the car understeer.
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Old 08-01-2005, 12:15 PM   #11966
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Guys, How to make XRay T1 FK take corners incredibly fast ?

Currently I get (1) low speed at corner entry ( I must off throttle early ), (2) ultra low speed mid corner + corner exit ( I can't push it any faster because the car become underteer, AND I cannot push too quick because the car might spin )

I have done almost everything to overcome my problem and now it's showing some improvement. There are two more improvements I haven't touch which are anti dive and squat. Please see attachment.

I'm on Picture A now. The Hudy book only mention Picture B. Joel Myelberg and Mike Dumas use Picture C. What picture or combination should I use to make my car more aggressive / take corner very fast ?

Thank you very much for helping me out !!! I'm using Sorex 40 + medium inserts.
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Old 08-01-2005, 03:41 PM   #11967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Currently I get (1) low speed at corner entry ( I must off throttle early ), (2) ultra low speed mid corner + corner exit ( I can't push it any faster because the car become underteer, AND I cannot push too quick because the car might spin ) I'm on Picture A now. The Hudy book only mention Picture B. Joel Myelberg and Mike Dumas use Picture C. What picture or combination should I use to make my car more aggressive / take corner very fast ?
Use holes 4 & 5 in the front and 4 & 3 in the rear. You may need to increase your front downstop setting 1 or 2mm to somewhere close to 0 and also decrease your rear downstop setting 1 or 2mm to somewhere close to 0. I had the same problem and used these settings to cure it.

If these don't cure the problem, then also try holes 2 & 1 in the rear.

Post your entire setup on the xray forum if you can & it will help us to understand the dynamics of your setup.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:39 AM   #11968
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Default Hitec 7th Annual Parking Lot Challenge Sportsman Stock A Main

I won, still using pivot ball suspension.

Hit the track boards throughout the day but no breakage...
ofcoarse, with two year old batteries I wasn't going very fast!

Fell asleep driving down the straight, next year I'll race modified too.
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:39 AM   #11969
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Thanks man, here is my current setup ( see pics ) I know it's unusual setup.... don't laugh.... 5mm chassis ?? I know it's too stiff even for carpet, but it's already too late, the chassis is already glued together.

All I need is more cornering speed ( entry, mid, exit ). What suspension geometry I should use: Picture A, B, C -- see post #11966 ?
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Old 08-02-2005, 11:10 AM   #11970
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Very unusual, even for myself. Use holes 4 & 5 in the front and 1 & 2 in the rear. You can also try the following in order:

* Switch to white springs in the rear (your springs are more than likely way too soft and are actually causing the inside rear tire to unload.
* Lower rear ride height to 5.5
* Move to 3d rear toe-in
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