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Old 02-17-2005, 02:31 PM   #11566
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Sorry I couldn't help greencactus. Up in this part of the country, we all run foams most. But try what the others suggested. They know what they are talking about. I never ran rubbers on this type of car yet. But there's a first isn't there?
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:44 PM   #11567
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cool i may do that. but will switching the ball pivot thing into the other kind of ball pivot lol im not making sense. but well for exapmle the type of ball cups other brands such as hpi and ae use. switching to those be any lower? anyone know? id rather switch those than grind away. which is prolly what ill do if its the same.
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:06 PM   #11568
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As I remeber if you use the ball stud and cup it actually sits higher than the way you have it now.
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:16 PM   #11569
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Quote:
Originally posted by greencactus3
cool i may do that. but will switching the ball pivot thing into the other kind of ball pivot lol im not making sense. but well for exapmle the type of ball cups other brands such as hpi and ae use. switching to those be any lower? anyone know? id rather switch those than grind away. which is prolly what ill do if its the same.

"well for exapmle the type of ball cups other brands such as hpi and ae use. switching to those"

Why buy the best car and make it worse?
Xray original will do. Trust me.
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:36 PM   #11570
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Are they Associatted shocks on your Xray, greencactus3? shame shame shame
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Old 02-17-2005, 03:43 PM   #11571
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontfeelcold
Are they Associatted shocks on your Xray, greencactus3? shame shame shame
And what more they are mounted upside down
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Old 02-17-2005, 04:06 PM   #11572
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Quote:
Originally posted by Anders Myrberg
Why buy the best car and make it worse?
Xray original will do. Trust me.
I have to agree with that, excually I think they are the best out there.
First; they are more bulletproof if you compare it with any type of ballcups, they won't pop off since the screw goes through and through.
Second, they last longer since you don't need to pull/turn the ballcup of the the ballstud. After like three times putting your pliers on the ballcup, and it looks like shit and the ballcups are worn out.
And finally; your thumbs likes it better, you don't need to press the ballcups on the ballstuds, which if you do it A couple of times your thumb starts to hurt.

These are one the reasons why I prefer Xray above others.
They really looked at the details and came with A simple and good solution.
It makes more sence to me if you're going to change those normal/standard ballcups (from another brand) with the Xray's "screw through ballcups" (or however you want to call it).
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:38 PM   #11573
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Quote:
Are they Associatted shocks on your Xray, greencactus3? shame shame shame
yes they are, with yokomo caps. blame Jon!!! i bought this used and havent had money to go to xray or tamiya shocks yet. not my fault! lol.
Quote:
And what more they are mounted upside down
yes they are but for now that is the only way they work. i have the wheelbase at the shortest and since my aftermarket rear shock tower is so fat i cant angle the shocks enough to make it fit the right way up. trust me, without major mods it wont go on the right way, so i thought it would do for now until i get my hands on some xray or tamiya shocks. and i only considered the ballcups of other brands because i thought it just might sit lower. i know my xray ones are great. its not as if i dont like any part of the xrays. (except the chub wekness),
Quote:
As I remeber if you use the ball stud and cup it actually sits higher than the way you have it now.
this was the only thing i wanted to know lol. thnx scrad for you info and yea, blame jon for sticking the associated shocks with the t1r lol. but then again it was a great price i think. especially for the condition it was in. so hopefully im not being mean to jon. just saying im a poor little high school kid who needs some shocks so will anyone kindly donate a few? lol. hey maybe i wont roll over if i get xray shocks haha
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Old 02-17-2005, 05:55 PM   #11574
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Quote:
Originally posted by greencactus3
yes they are, with yokomo caps. blame Jon!!! i bought this used and havent had money to go to xray or tamiya shocks yet. not my fault! lol.
yes they are but for now that is the only way they work. i have the wheelbase at the shortest and since my aftermarket rear shock tower is so fat i cant angle the shocks enough to make it fit the right way up. trust me, without major mods it wont go on the right way, so i thought it would do for now until i get my hands on some xray or tamiya shocks. and i only considered the ballcups of other brands because i thought it just might sit lower. i know my xray ones are great. its not as if i dont like any part of the xrays. (except the chub wekness),
this was the only thing i wanted to know lol. thnx scrad for you info and yea, blame jon for sticking the associated shocks with the t1r lol. but then again it was a great price i think. especially for the condition it was in. so hopefully im not being mean to jon. just saying im a poor little high school kid who needs some shocks so will anyone kindly donate a few? lol. hey maybe i wont roll over if i get xray shocks haha
LOL, sorry. The T1R was my first Xray and i guess it was a little bit of a hack job, but i sold it for cheap. You should see my BMI Xray FK, its totally different then the T1R now.
The shocks on there seemed to work well for me, i really didnt have any problems. I also saw some people use AE shocks on the Xray so i gave it a try. Sorry again, lol I never had problems rolling over though.

Jon
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:01 PM   #11575
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Quote:
Originally posted by greencactus3
and with shim. you can tell it is rubbing if you look close. and these are 2mm shims yes. i measured again to make sure
if you want to place shims under your rear camberlinks you should change the ballend (on the rear upright side). you should use the hex screw with no head (like the one used on the arm to hold the shox). then use the screw-on ballends also like the one used on the rear shox.
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Old 02-17-2005, 08:59 PM   #11576
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Quote:
Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
if you want to place shims under your rear camberlinks you should change the ballend (on the rear upright side). you should use the hex screw with no head (like the one used on the arm to hold the shox). then use the screw-on ballends also like the one used on the rear shox.
im not sure what you mean because i dont use the xray shocks or the conventional xray shock mounting screws. please post a picture or explain without reffering to those i have no idea what you are saying except its a new idea lol
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Old 02-17-2005, 10:33 PM   #11577
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are you using an FK? cause the shock ends of the fk are using threaded balls which go onto a screw which is mounted on the rear arm. get the screw on the arm which holds the shox and it will fit the rear upright then change the camber link ends into the same design of the shock end (threadd balls). hope this helps. cause i dont have a picture of it right now. sorry
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Old 02-18-2005, 02:08 PM   #11578
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hey bud check page 138 in the newest rc driver-someone was having the same problem, they give a few little generic tips that you might try, they might help.
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Old 02-18-2005, 10:52 PM   #11579
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Quote:
Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
are you using an FK? cause the shock ends of the fk are using threaded balls which go onto a screw which is mounted on the rear arm. get the screw on the arm which holds the shox and it will fit the rear upright then change the camber link ends into the same design of the shock end (threadd balls). hope this helps. cause i dont have a picture of it right now. sorry
nope actually im using a t1r with xtremerc shock towers and tc3 shocks with yokomo caps.
i will look at rc driver next time i have the chance. as i dont buy it normally.
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Old 02-20-2005, 01:18 AM   #11580
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does anybody have a setup sheet that I can download into my computer so i can save my setup to computer? Rather than filling out a setup sheet for each track. I'd like to be able to store them on my laptop.
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