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Old 02-16-2005, 01:51 PM   #11551
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Originally posted by greencactus3
i ran my t1r yesterday and was barrel rolling all over the place. so im supposed to go to harder springs right? was using blue and white. friend said i should go softer. but im not sure. cs27s on carpet. stock motor. and i read in other threads about raising roll center and maybe shortening the front upper link. what do you guys suggest? without changing the setting too much.
Get some Tamiya 5.5 aluminum shim set and put a 1mm shim between the front chubs and the camber link and a 2mm shim between the rear hubs and the camber link.
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Old 02-16-2005, 02:35 PM   #11552
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i was planning on shimming it like that yea. any reason it has to be aluminum tho? i found a couple plastic ones from spare parts for my hpi. i think it was for the shock downstroke limiting. right size. why should i have 1mm for front and 2 for rear? would you please explain? i was thinking because i was rolling entering the corners i should just raise it for my front. does the rear affect it too? and why more for the rear? and why only 1mm/2mm? i know the rear will rub but my fronts i can raise a lot more. thnx
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Old 02-16-2005, 02:50 PM   #11553
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Originally posted by greencactus3
i was planning on shimming it like that yea. any reason it has to be aluminum tho? i found a couple plastic ones from spare parts for my hpi. i think it was for the shock downstroke limiting. right size. why should i have 1mm for front and 2 for rear? would you please explain? i was thinking because i was rolling entering the corners i should just raise it for my front. does the rear affect it too? and why more for the rear? and why only 1mm/2mm? i know the rear will rub but my fronts i can raise a lot more. thnx
The aluminum are machined so they are exact and perfectly flat. As far as shimming 1mm and 2mm, when you shim the camber link that causes that end to break traction easier so you want the rear to break traction easier. If the front traction breaks easier than the rear the car will push in the turns. That was the setup Josh used on his cars and when I have my FK that's what I ran. I tried more but it made the car handle funny. It might be different for rubber tires but that is what works for foams.
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Old 02-16-2005, 03:40 PM   #11554
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greencactus: take some droop out of your car. If you have too much droop the car will pick up and roll. When you take droop out of the car, it forces the chassis to squat in order to roll, so the outside tires won't pick up.
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Old 02-16-2005, 03:46 PM   #11555
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ahh i didnt think of that. so before i shim and see what happens when i break loose i should lessen the droop. anyone suggest anything? or better yet anyone have a setup for rubber on carpet?
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Old 02-16-2005, 07:30 PM   #11556
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Anyone know how to gear a T1 mini with a Trinity Epic Binary and a monster stock? Both are with a 93 tooth spurt. Plz let me know, this is my first on road and have no idea....
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Old 02-16-2005, 08:13 PM   #11557
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Quote:
Originally posted by greencactus3
ahh i didnt think of that. so before i shim and see what happens when i break loose i should lessen the droop. anyone suggest anything? or better yet anyone have a setup for rubber on carpet?
I would put shims under your ball studs anyway. Most racers do this to their cars traction rolling or not. If after doing this, your car is still rolling, take out some droop. You may even want to take some out anyway, depending on how much you have. Too much droop will cause the car to be lazy and loose more speed than it should in the corners.
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Old 02-17-2005, 07:37 AM   #11558
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Default T1R FRONT DIFF TIGHTENS WHEN RUNNING

My son has a T1R that he races and lately the front diff will be almost locked up after a 5min race. After several minutes it will loosen up and feel ok. We race indoor on carpet with foam tires. He runs the front diff fairly tight. He races the car in stock and 19t. Has anyone had this happen to their T1R?????? When I turn one front wheel and let the diff turn the other the opposite direction it looks almost like the front pulley wobbles slightly????? I will be taking the diff out and completely dis-assembling it to inspect and clean it. What lube can I use th the thrust bearing????
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:22 AM   #11559
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ive had my diff tighten before. once. but i loosened it up again and hasnt happened since. mighta been a friend fiddling with it while i wasnt looking but heh. i like my front fairly tight too. and wobbles? not so much in my t1r.
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Old 02-17-2005, 01:46 PM   #11560
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i just looked at my t1r again and i cant fit a 2mm in the back. itll rub the inside of the wheel. soooo should i just do 1mm for front and back or uhh hmm. maybe i need to change to the ball pivot type things.
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Old 02-17-2005, 01:53 PM   #11561
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You should be able to put a 2mm shim in there no problem. If you have clearence issues, well consult someone else. What kind of wheels are they? Most wheels and there dishes measure over 45mm at all times. What kind of shim was it? If it was a xray one it should fit. Just be carefull on those types. They DO NOT measure to what they say most of the time. Get a caliper out and find the shims dimension and make sure its the right one. Maybe this will help you. If not post again! We're here to help!
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:11 PM   #11562
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just as you said, my wheels inner diameter measures 45mm on the dot. im not sure what wheels they are but they are dish wheels. and im using hpi plastic shims. but i measured them to be a perfect 2mm. here. ill post pic of without shim
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File Type: jpg shimless.jpg (59.5 KB, 185 views)
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:12 PM   #11563
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and with shim. you can tell it is rubbing if you look close. and these are 2mm shims yes. i measured again to make sure
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:22 PM   #11564
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Just take a dremel and grind away part of the rim. I had to do this when I ran CS 27's.
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:25 PM   #11565
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Try to sand / file / dremel the screw in a tapered form. We have done that, and it works.
Tip: Put the screw i the dremel, and use a file. Slow speed makes it rounder.
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