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Old 02-14-2005, 03:33 PM   #11536
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what springs is everybody running for carpet and foam tires
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Old 02-14-2005, 03:48 PM   #11537
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drx - If you already have the Pdub bumper the only thing I can think of it to stop hitting the barrier. I've run TRCs, Jacos, and Parma tires on my car, and have yet to break a wheel. Are you breaking them in the same place on the track? Maybe your track layout causes you to be at just the right speed and angle when you hit the barrier to break the rim.

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Old 02-14-2005, 03:50 PM   #11538
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zinger - violet springs all round, light purple if traction is really high.
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Old 02-14-2005, 03:53 PM   #11539
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I run jacos and the track I run at uses piesces of wood assembled to make square barriers around the track. So basicall y the straight into the sweeper constists of two 90 degree angles where two pieces of wood are screwed together. I have yet to break a wheel, but I have broke many right steering blocks. I know I just need to quit hittin things, But is there anything else I can do to help a little?
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Old 02-14-2005, 04:10 PM   #11540
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pdub or rubberneck bumper perhaps?
My track is pretty much the same thing. I had a really wide Alex Racing bumper on my evo2 that i think saved me a good number of times
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Old 02-14-2005, 06:03 PM   #11541
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
drx - If you already have the Pdub bumper the only thing I can think of it to stop hitting the barrier. I've run TRCs, Jacos, and Parma tires on my car, and have yet to break a wheel. Are you breaking them in the same place on the track? Maybe your track layout causes you to be at just the right speed and angle when you hit the barrier to break the rim.

Josh
I can't say that it's happening in the same spot on the track. I kinda doubt that. If it is on one spot I think it's what usually acts as the final turn before the main straight. It's often configured so that it can and should be taken flat out. So, there's at least that spot where I'm carrying a lot of speed and will sometimes hit the outside barrier at an angle that gives me little protection from the bumper (pDub) and leaves the wheel exposed. Since installing the pDub the breakage occurs less often I guess because there is a greater angle of protection. But it's not complete.

I still hold to my preveious post where I describe the barriers we use, and my suspicions about what happens when I hit one. So, I don't think it's the chassis per se. At least not any more. When you bang into those barriers, the relatively narrow and high contact point causes the wheel to deform in such a way that it hits the camber link hard. I'd bet money that if I hit a vertical barrier at a similar angle and speed the breakage wouldn't occur.

And of course, the obvious solution - don't hit the barriers in the first place - is undoubtedly correct, but at this point (at least for me) that seems to be easier said than done. It's getting better with time, but contact still occurs and sometimes with it are a new set of wheels. It just gets very frustrating when contact breaks something as expensive as one of those goofy jacos.
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Old 02-14-2005, 06:10 PM   #11542
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drx - You could buy tires online to help soften the cost when you do break a wheel. speedtechrc.com and kthobbies.com both have Jacos for $14/pair.

tc1: Josh Cyrul tip: cut off the unused holes on the servo saver. When you crash these can get jammed up against the bulkhead and cause the steering hubs to break.

Josh
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Old 02-14-2005, 06:10 PM   #11543
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Quote:
Originally posted by tc1
I run jacos and the track I run at uses piesces of wood assembled to make square barriers around the track. So basicall y the straight into the sweeper constists of two 90 degree angles where two pieces of wood are screwed together. I have yet to break a wheel, but I have broke many right steering blocks. I know I just need to quit hittin things, But is there anything else I can do to help a little?
One thing I did was switch to the aluminum parts. They are bloody expensve, but they'll take a massive hit.

I just removed a 3 degree castor (C) block and checked it. It 's not bent of cracked, and I can tell you that the front on my car takes a reaql beating some nights.

I have noticed one thing about those castor block where there has been some ill effect though. It appears that the hole that the lower pivot pin goes through gets out of round and makes the pivot a little sloppy.
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Old 02-14-2005, 06:13 PM   #11544
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drx,

get the team tamale one. they are about the same price, but are way stronger. I have not seen a set bent or the hole enlarge yet.
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Old 02-15-2005, 08:17 AM   #11545
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
drx,

get the team tamale one. they are about the same price, but are way stronger. I have not seen a set bent or the hole enlarge yet.
I've looked t their website and I've considered getting a set of their steering blocks, but right now $50 is a little tough to come by.

i'm wondering though, just how much slop can someone stand on that pivot pin, anyway. Is this something I can live with for awhile, or.........

</DrX>
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Old 02-15-2005, 08:59 AM   #11546
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drx-the xray aluminum caster blocks wont break-but they bend back with every hit. I would seriousely consider when you rebuild to measure your caster with a camber gauge. Dont be suprised if your 3 degree alum blocks have 9 degrees of caster!!


The Tamales are bulletproof-hence the warranty-if you bend or break one-free replacement.
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Old 02-15-2005, 12:55 PM   #11547
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Default Drive gear set

I run on a small, flat, tight turn carpet oval. Would it be best to run the low gear ratio set or the stock one? I have tried both and can not really tell a differance. Can someone explain what I should use? A buddy of mine is using the stock set with 64 pitch 120 spur and a 37 pinion and I have the lower ratio set on running a 48 pitch 93, 24 . He seems to be a little faster in lap times, is it the gear set?

Thanks for any help
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Old 02-15-2005, 01:09 PM   #11548
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YOu should use the 1.77 gear set because it frees up your drivterian big time. And a freer drivetrian should mean faster acceleration, more top speed and a cooler motor at the end of a run.

Ray
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Old 02-16-2005, 11:01 AM   #11549
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i ran my t1r yesterday and was barrel rolling all over the place. so im supposed to go to harder springs right? was using blue and white. friend said i should go softer. but im not sure. cs27s on carpet. stock motor. and i read in other threads about raising roll center and maybe shortening the front upper link. what do you guys suggest? without changing the setting too much.
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Old 02-16-2005, 12:30 PM   #11550
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you had ought to try some foam tires.
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