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Old 12-24-2004, 08:10 PM   #10951
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Heathcliff... What conversion kit did you buy? The only kit I know of, is for the original long-arm c-hub suspension... Not the short arms of the Factory Kit.
Windsorguy99... Are different turnbuckles really necessary? Since the c-hub is in the same location. I thought it was just the arm mounting location that changed.
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Old 12-24-2004, 08:30 PM   #10952
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can someone answer my question on the previoius page? Its the very last one...thanks
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Old 12-24-2004, 08:51 PM   #10953
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I just got some alloy shock bodies also, but only built 2 so far, and not even tried putting oil in them yet, sorry i cant help, i think Pyramid might be able to help you, he seems to know alot about these shocks.
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Old 12-24-2004, 09:29 PM   #10954
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Rustler,

When doing the rebuild did you replace the old o-rings with new ones. This is usually the source of airleaks. Hope this helps.

Merry, Happy and safe Holiday to all!
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Old 12-24-2004, 09:34 PM   #10955
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
Rob-forgot to answer your PM-its Radio Shack or CRC carry them!!

As for the arm-you dremel off the entire shock mount-then into the arm a mm or two. My tip-drill the hole through the arm first-then dremel.
This will cause NO degradation of arm strength!!
You what! But doesn't the shock then sit in at an angle too much (towards the bottom) and make the top of the shock (inside) hit on the shock tower? or do you space the top out? wouldn't it be better just to run the next hole in on the bottom mount? I run this and have no problems with the car's handling at all.
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Old 12-25-2004, 02:04 AM   #10956
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Guys as per one of the posts above i will be totally rebuilding my shocks from scratch again as i have to change the shock bodies.

What parts are worth while replacing or will need replacing when i attempt this??
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Old 12-25-2004, 02:58 AM   #10957
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what type of foams do you guys use front and back for Stock carpet?

Out here in Cali we run rubber in stock on Carpet and I was thinking of going to snowbirds but I need a foam set up for stock.

What do guys like?
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Old 12-25-2004, 04:36 AM   #10958
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Quote:
Originally posted by rustler753
When I just got the aluminum shock bodies and new insides, after rebuildinging them there seems to be alot of bubbles in my oil....what could be the source of the air leak...anybody have advice for building these evil serpent shocks? ( Yes the do get tiresome to rebuild....and yes they are evil...)
It should not happening.. try the following method I wrote in our website for Serpent damper and please give another feedback,

Damper Building
First thing is to assembly the top cap with its diagfram together (SER-909406+909402+6431). Then use `tapper` for M3 screws to pre threads the ball joints (SER-909403) deep enough so that you could have the piston rod (shock shaft) gets in and exposed maximum 0.5mm of its threads. Pay attention to its straightness when pre threading the ball joint. If the threads on piston shaft get too deep (shaft threads gets in beyond ball joint), you would be limited to have bigger droop (front is the most effected). Make sure all the piston-rod assy could slide easily to the shock housing without any bindings. Rule of thumb is to drop the piston-rod assy to the shock housing and it should drop completely straight (without the bottom cap installed).

Now it is the time to fill the oil and remove any air bubbles remaining by moving the piston-rods assy up and down several times. After all air bubbles cleared, do the following steps,

Close the top cap assy by threading it to the shock housing at about 1mm or so, then start pushing piston-rod assy up (to its maximum travel, then let go, do not hold up) to bleed some oil. When pushing the piston-rod assy up, you would also slowly begin to close the top cap assy further down until you could not possible (WITHOUT FORCE) go any further, shock shaft would automatically lengthen itself to maximum. At this point, your top cap assy will NOT close totally firm to the shock housing and that is OK. Remember, this step is only meant to make sure no air inside the top part of your damper. This is not the actual bleeding process.

Next, turn counter clockwise and open bottom holder (where your o-ring reside) just enough so that o-ring is no longer being pressed by its holder. Again, push the piston-rod assy up to halfway only to bleed some oil from the bottom. Then close the bottom part while the piston-rod assy stays at the point you stopped before. Now try to close the top cap assy firmly to its housing again and you should be able to close it firmly. While doing that, your piston-rod assy will lengthen itself to the maximum again. Remember, this step is to bleed just enough oil out so that you could close the top cap assy firmly to the shock housing. Again, this is not the actual bleeding process.

Now this is the real bleeding process. Open the bottom cap again, push the piston-rod assy up to its maximum travel. While still holding the piston-rod assy at its peak, use the same fingers/hand to close the bottom cap. Rule of thumb, your piston should not rebound more than halfway of its total travel, 3-5mm is the common results. You are done !!!

PS: If you feel that rebound strength is not the same between L/R or F/R as preferred, you would need to do it again from the beginning. If you open the bottom cap one more time to bleed just a little oil as desired, the `progressive` rebound feeling will not be the same and there is a good change for air to get inside.
Furthermore, in order to do less rebuilding maintenance due to small oil leaking from the bottom cap on usage, you could put 0.2-0.3mm shims (4x6mm such as Tamiya TA53586 or KOSE K1637-Teflon Motor Shims 3.4x6mm which is the best) inside the bottom cap to press the o-ring further (shim goes first then the purple o-ring) on its place and within the shaft when mounted. Rule of thumb, you must be able to use all 4 shocks at least 4 hours without the sign of air bubble inside and still having the same rebound stroke/strength.
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Old 12-25-2004, 04:47 AM   #10959
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Quote:
Originally posted by MrRolla
Guys as per one of the posts above i will be totally rebuilding my shocks from scratch again as i have to change the shock bodies.

What parts are worth while replacing or will need replacing when i attempt this??
Just from my opinion, if everything was fine, leave it unchanged. I found the most important point for these kind of shock is the match up one part with the other, bottom cap vs o-ring vs the shock body (if plastic). As you should realise, in the process making (plastic injection process), proper material drying, humidity level, surrounding temperature as well as when and how you handle each parts coming out from the process will have impact (even if 1/100) to final dimension, because plastic do shrink. The purple o-ring will just work fine even after a year of usage. My benchmark to do the matching: put a drop of oil in the o-ring and assembly with the body. Feel the tightness while moving the shaft up and down. Mix and match bottom cap and or o-ring until you got the same feeling. Hope it helps.
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Old 12-25-2004, 05:33 AM   #10960
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnMatrix
what type of foams do you guys use front and back for Stock carpet?

Out here in Cali we run rubber in stock on Carpet and I was thinking of going to snowbirds but I need a foam set up for stock.

What do guys like?
Orange double pink fronts and double pink rears are great. If you need the tires to last longer then orange purple fronts and purple rears.
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Old 12-25-2004, 10:00 PM   #10961
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Quote:
Originally posted by Thistle
Heathcliff... What conversion kit did you buy? The only kit I know of, is for the original long-arm c-hub suspension... Not the short arms of the Factory Kit.
Windsorguy99... Are different turnbuckles really necessary? Since the c-hub is in the same location. I thought it was just the arm mounting location that changed.
I bought the composite c-hub suspension option set for the front and rear (#300900). It comes with long medium arms but i also bought the front and rear short arms...not using the long ones that come with the set.
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Old 12-25-2004, 10:11 PM   #10962
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Quote:
Originally posted by NismoSkyline17
Orange double pink fronts and double pink rears are great. If you need the tires to last longer then orange purple fronts and purple rears.
Awesome, Ill try it this week cant wait.
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Old 12-25-2004, 11:35 PM   #10963
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Appart from buying the tamiya shocks, do you guys have any tips for building the Xray ones?

I just spent 90 minutes trying to rebuild the front two shocks, and only got one done.

Once you put that rubber bladder bit over the top of the shock, if you don't line up the threads on the cap perfectly they cross thread. If they cross thread, you have to back off and it lets air into the shock. Also can't rotate the cap backwards to find the threads as that also lets air into the shock.

There must be an easier way to do this?

Josh
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Old 12-25-2004, 11:48 PM   #10964
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedo
Appart from buying the tamiya shocks, do you guys have any tips for building the Xray ones?

I just spent 90 minutes trying to rebuild the front two shocks, and only got one done.

Once you put that rubber bladder bit over the top of the shock, if you don't line up the threads on the cap perfectly they cross thread. If they cross thread, you have to back off and it lets air into the shock. Also can't rotate the cap backwards to find the threads as that also lets air into the shock.

There must be an easier way to do this?

Josh
I feel your pain brother

I avoid rebuilding my shocks LOL

Afew guys at my local track recomende using the TRF bladders instead of the xray ones, apparently it makes thing easier..

Dave
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Old 12-26-2004, 08:03 AM   #10965
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Aside from the physical differences of the FK bulkheads has anyone noticed a difference in the way the car handles?

I am trying to make up my mind if it is worth the $100 for the upgrade.
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