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Old 11-25-2004, 08:49 AM   #10411
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JDXray, yes I had one that was a little bent, but after a couple of weeks I couldn't tell which one it was. Perhaps the "spring" steel "springs" back!!
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Old 11-25-2004, 08:55 AM   #10412
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mazmorbid: that look like a great idea, I am going to try that myself on a new set and see how they work. Have you had success removing a broken knuckle since you have made this modification, and do the knuckles wear out any faster. Thanks for all your help.
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Old 11-25-2004, 09:08 AM   #10413
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Quote:
Originally posted by chach
mazmorbid: that look like a great idea, I am going to try that myself on a new set and see how they work. Have you had success removing a broken knuckle since you have made this modification, and do the knuckles wear out any faster. Thanks for all your help.
mmm... I have not broken any but obviously with time they do wear out, i think that the edge i have taken off is the wearing part? and damaging part?
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Old 11-25-2004, 03:49 PM   #10414
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does anyone have a good website for tips on building the shocks? OR does anyone have tips themselves they could tell me. I was thinking of rebuilding them again.

Thanks

Jon
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Old 11-25-2004, 05:10 PM   #10415
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i would also appreciate some shock building tips.

i can build them with no air in, they dont leak etc but after a while they seem to get tonnes of air in (but they aint leaking coz theres no oil on or around the shock

i was tempted to buy some tamiya shocks on my most recent order (yesterday) from mushroom..but decided to give the xray shocks another chance and ordered a lathe instead.

because next time i make an order it will be for the tamiya shocks unless i can learn my self..or be taught how to build them right...their a right paint int he arse.

thanks in advance
Matt
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Old 11-25-2004, 05:39 PM   #10416
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ya my shocks are about the same as yours. I build them to the manual and there is no leaks and seem like they perform well. But when i take the spring off and push the rod in, IS IT supposed to rebound all the way back out?? I am getting alittle rebound back but only alittle is that Correct????
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Old 11-25-2004, 07:35 PM   #10417
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
ya my shocks are about the same as yours. I build them to the manual and there is no leaks and seem like they perform well. But when i take the spring off and push the rod in, IS IT supposed to rebound all the way back out?? I am getting alittle rebound back but only alittle is that Correct????
JD.
Most shocks are meant to rebound back a little. If all your shocks have the same rebound rate, then you are safe.
The rebound rate should also be smooth and slow. If ur using 40wt oil, you should feel it when it rebound. It shouldnt be feeling like you had just put in 80wt oil or harder.
Xray has those little round sponge that is inserted between the membrane and the top cap of the shocks.
It does help alot in building up your stocks. Furthermore it doesnt allow the membrane to collapse.
Hope it helps
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Old 11-25-2004, 08:02 PM   #10418
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdR|aN
JD.
Most shocks are meant to rebound back a little. If all your shocks have the same rebound rate, then you are safe.
The rebound rate should also be smooth and slow. If ur using 40wt oil, you should feel it when it rebound. It shouldnt be feeling like you had just put in 80wt oil or harder.
Xray has those little round sponge that is inserted between the membrane and the top cap of the shocks.
It does help alot in building up your stocks. Furthermore it doesnt allow the membrane to collapse.
Hope it helps
thanks adrian, then i guess my shocks are good then since it rebounds nice and smoothly but it comes out alittle. I guess i can always go ahead and build an extra set just in case.

Also, another question: I had a club racing last sunday and lets just say it wasnt a good day for any xray there for qualifiers but in the end we came out notorious. One problem i had was: I guess i was getting too much steering and it was hitting my front lower ball cups on the shock. It broke on my twice; once before qualifiers and one in my 2nd heat. I changed the exp on my radio and lowered it so it wasnt hitting but it still some how was hitting it.... I guess when you go into a turn the wheels just keep on turning in. Any ideas besides to lower the steering rate anymore?

thanks alot guys

Jon
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Old 11-25-2004, 08:13 PM   #10419
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does anyone know exactly how much shorter the factory arms are than the evo2s? just hoping someone will know.

thanks
marshalv
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Old 11-25-2004, 11:48 PM   #10420
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I guess you will all get answers on your questions on Xray´s official web, under forum.
http://www.teamxray.com/xforum/
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Old 11-26-2004, 12:17 AM   #10421
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Try this (Based on Serpent S710 shocks),

Damper Building
First thing is to assembly the top cap with its diagfram together (SER-909406+909402+6431). Then use `tapper` for M3 screws to pre threads the ball joints (SER-909403) deep enough so that you could have the piston rod (shock shaft) gets in and exposed maximum 0.5mm of its threads. Pay attention to its straightness when pre threading the ball joint. If the threads on piston shaft get too deep (shaft threads gets in beyond ball joint), you would be limited to have bigger droop (front is the most effected). Make sure all the piston-rod assy could slide easily to the shock housing without any bindings. Rule of thumb is to drop the piston-rod assy to the shock housing and it should drop completely straight (without the bottom cap installed). You could either use an acto/hobby knife to trim some of piston burrs remaining from the production process, or run the whole piston-rod assy with dremel and a fine grid sand paper to make them fit more freely in case needed.

Now it is the time to fill the oil and remove any air bubbles remaining by moving the piston-rods assy up and down several times. After all air bubbles cleared, do the following steps,

Close the top cap assy by threading it to the shock housing at about 1mm or so, then start pushing piston-rod assy up (to its maximum travel) to bleed some oil. While pushing the piston-rod assy up, you would also closing the top cap assy further down until you could not possible (WITHOUT FORCE) go any further. At this point, your top cap assy will NOT close totally firm to the shock housing and that is OK. Remember, this step is only meant to make sure no air inside the top part of your damper. This is not the actual bleeding process.
Next, turn counter clockwise and open bottom holder (where your o-ring reside) just enough so that o-ring is no longer being pressed by its holder. Again, push the piston-rod assy up to halfway only to bleed some oil from the bottom. Then close the bottom part while the piston-rod assy stays at the point you stopped before. Now try to close the top cap assy firmly to its housing again and you should be able to close it firmly. While doing that, your piston-rod assy will lengthen itself to the maximum again. Remember, this step is to bleed just enough oil out so that you could close the top cap assy firmly to the shock housing. Again, this is not the actual bleeding process.
Now this is the real bleeding process. Open the bottom cap again, push the piston-rod assy up to its maximum travel. While still holding the piston-rod assy at its peak, use the same fingers/hand to close the bottom cap. Rule of thumb, your piston should not rebound more than halfway of its total travel, 3-5mm is the common results. You are done !!!
PS: If you feel that rebound strength is not the same between L/R or F/R as preferred, you would need to do it again from the beginning. If you open the bottom cap one more time to bleed just a little oil as desired, the `progressive` rebound feeling will not be the same and there is a good change for air to get inside.
Furthermore, in order to do less rebuilding maintenance due to small oil leaking from the bottom cap on usage, you could put 0.2-0.3mm shims (4x6mm such as Tamiya TA53586 or KOSE K1637-Teflon Motor Shims 3.4x6mm which is the best) inside the bottom cap to press the o-ring further (shim goes first then the purple o-ring) on its place and within the shaft when mounted. Rule of thumb, you must be able to use all 4 shocks at least 4 hours without the sign of air bubble inside and still having the same rebound stroke/strength.
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Old 11-26-2004, 02:33 AM   #10422
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Quote:
Originally posted by dado11g
does anyone know exactly how much shorter the factory arms are than the evo2s? just hoping someone will know.

thanks
marshalv
I just went to measure for you, and found that there are 3 different sizes in the length of the shock shaft?? I have 3 XRay's, a T1R, EVO2, and FK, the one's that come with the FK are in the middle? Does anyone know why they change the lengths? and what purpose? what is best?
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Old 11-26-2004, 05:31 AM   #10423
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Quote:
Originally posted by Michal101
John,

Looks like nice work, but if the axle is bent and your jig is straight then how do you ensure that the bent axle will fit into the straight line of the jig when you start hammering???

Thanks, Mike
When you go to straighten a bent axle, you look to see where the maximum deflection is (ie, rotate the shaft and look to see the maximum gaps in the blocks) than give it a few good wacks. The shaft will straighten and the blocks will come together.

To fine tune straightening, you rotate the shaft and feel where it binds. You know that's the high point and you wack it a few times. Eventually you can take the top block off and spin it to see how true the shaft is and repeat the process if necessary. I have straightened all my bent xray axles, it works!
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Old 11-26-2004, 06:23 AM   #10424
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Quote:
Originally posted by mazmorbid
I just went to measure for you, and found that there are 3 different sizes in the length of the shock shaft?? I have 3 XRay's, a T1R, EVO2, and FK, the one's that come with the FK are in the middle? Does anyone know why they change the lengths? and what purpose? what is best?
I am not sure but i think for the evo 2 since the shock towers have so many different shock hole positions. Are the evo 2 ones the longest?
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Old 11-26-2004, 07:58 AM   #10425
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Quote:
Originally posted by JDXray
I am not sure but i think for the evo 2 since the shock towers have so many different shock hole positions. Are the evo 2 ones the longest?
Here is a pic, I know for sure the middle one's are the FK one's, I just checked on XRay's website and they list the same part number for both FK and T1R.
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