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Old 11-06-2004, 09:12 PM   #9856
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Originally posted by dado11g
ya i made a deal with him. i know he put it back on. its a long story.
I made a good deal with him also on the springs and Dodge body shell he had, the reserve price for the Evo 2 was $200, can I ask what the deal was ? Coz I had interest in this same car, but ordered an FK from KT Hobbies instead.
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:27 PM   #9857
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ok. well i hit the buy it now and paid 240 after shipping. i told him that i made a mistake when i purchased the car and i would like him to refund to me $200 of the $240 i paid him(just to cover any ebay or paypal charges he had and a little extra for doin the favor). so he put it back on and if it sells again he will pay me back. i really wanted the factory but i mistakenly bought the evo2 thinking it was the latest (short arm) version. so now that i have noticed my mistake i have been pulling out hair figuring out what to do.
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Old 11-07-2004, 04:21 AM   #9858
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JD,

Good tip for the layshaft, I siezed one of my bearings last week and had to strip the whole car down to fix!

One thing I noticed and you can maybe help me with, is the upper cable links are not the regulation 10mm from the bulkhead as per the manual, you are running yours in line with the drivesharts below. Does this improve handling? I've always thought the your way is the right way, but the manual states otherwise?????
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:21 AM   #9859
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Quote:
Originally posted by TraceRacing
JD,

Good tip for the layshaft, I siezed one of my bearings last week and had to strip the whole car down to fix!

One thing I noticed and you can maybe help me with, is the upper cable links are not the regulation 10mm from the bulkhead as per the manual, you are running yours in line with the drivesharts below. Does this improve handling? I've always thought the your way is the right way, but the manual states otherwise?????
No Problem, i just siezed both my bearings on saturday during practice and also had to strip down to get to those.

And for camberlinks are you talking about the front or rear? I dont know to much about those either, but i heard they shuold be out around 2mm. In the manual you'll see them use a tool or something which stops it from go any further and then you screw the set screw down.

I would imagine that it would give you some more handling, or traction, but i have to try it. You should listen to those manuals they help alot.

Hope i cleared a few things up.

Jon
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Old 11-07-2004, 07:53 AM   #9860
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Originally posted by S-T-R-l-K-E-R
try cyrul's set-up for the reedy race held earlier this year at the tamiya track. i use it as my baseline set-up its really hooked-up

www.cefx.net
just got my hands on a Xray-fk thanks for the info. to the webb site. Now i have both set-up for carpet and asphalt.
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Old 11-07-2004, 08:13 AM   #9861
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Hey guys, got to the point in the build process where I am putting the shocks together, and I have to say I've hit something I dont like....is there a secret tip to put the shock ends on without cracking the ends, I tried pre-tapping them, I tried everything and ended up cracking 2 of them slightly in order to get the length specified in the manual, is this a known problem, or what????
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Old 11-07-2004, 08:16 AM   #9862
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Quote:
Originally posted by TigeRyan
Hey guys, got to the point in the build process where I am putting the shocks together, and I have to say I've hit something I dont like....is there a secret tip to put the shock ends on without cracking the ends, I tried pre-tapping them, I tried everything and ended up cracking 2 of them slightly in order to get the length specified in the manual, is this a known problem, or what????
Hi,

I had the same problem with the shockcaps.
I dremel-ed the shock-shaft a little bit, so it's shorter.
1,5 to 2 mm is enough to have them on properly.

Bye Thomas
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Old 11-07-2004, 12:30 PM   #9863
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I'm finding out that the C-Hub suspenson isn't quite as durable as my old T1 PB setup was...

I'm looking to improve durability of the front end..specifically the C-Hubs...I know that there are aftermarket Foam bumpers available through Rubberneck Racing and P-Dub...I was just curious if that would be enough to help protect the C-hubs, orif I should also try to adapt an RPM or buds bumper for under the foam...currently I'm using the impact absorbing front bumper.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks....and yes..I know..stop hitting stuff....which would work if I could get lapped traffic to stop hitting ME
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Old 11-07-2004, 12:42 PM   #9864
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I was using the rubber neck until this past weekend. It was good cause it was wider and stiffer but the corners tend to bend back and your tires will rub. I switched back to the regular foam.

How does lapped traffic hit you to break c-hubs? I only broke c-hubs on fast sections of the track (mainly sweepers when I'm balls out) trying to run too tight.

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Old 11-07-2004, 12:44 PM   #9865
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As i'm going by they decide to change their line from outside to in..or inside to out...bumping my car at speed into the walls....

it was a frustrating week of racing....
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Old 11-07-2004, 01:43 PM   #9866
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Quote:
Originally posted by Windsorguy99
I'm finding out that the C-Hub suspenson isn't quite as durable as my old T1 PB setup was...

I'm looking to improve durability of the front end..specifically the C-Hubs...I know that there are aftermarket Foam bumpers available through Rubberneck Racing and P-Dub...I was just curious if that would be enough to help protect the C-hubs, orif I should also try to adapt an RPM or buds bumper for under the foam...currently I'm using the impact absorbing front bumper.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks....and yes..I know..stop hitting stuff....which would work if I could get lapped traffic to stop hitting ME
Try some alum. C-hubs, thats pretty much all that breaks on c-hub suspension, and occasionaly a steering block will go. I still havent broke a long arm yet and i have so many extras for no reason..
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Old 11-07-2004, 02:30 PM   #9867
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Default shock caps

The only way I find to put the shock caps on is to use vise grips on the shaft with a pice of paper towerl wrapped around the shaft so the grips dont deform the part. And yes, do not try and make them the lenght specified in the manual, go a couple mm shorter. I found out the hard way also during assembly.
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Old 11-07-2004, 05:22 PM   #9868
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You would think they would fix that, now my first race with the car is one more week off since I gotta order the part online cause no one has it local

Oh well, otherwise the car is awesome and everything went together very easily...
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Old 11-07-2004, 05:25 PM   #9869
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Well as I promised, when I stated I was receiving my car this past friday, that I would be giving a setup that I have come up with... After testing the car this weekend First things first, the new chassis is a must!!! Its so dialed!So much more responsive As for setup, I tryed Josh's Nats starting setup, and pretty much didnt go too far from it. But I did make a few changes. Changes I made were, 35weight oil front an rear. With red springs in front, and a 1mm swaybar. Car rotated and stayed, so flat in the corners!
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Old 11-07-2004, 06:17 PM   #9870
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Corey Bernardo:

Which new chassis? The thicker XRC?
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