Robfo

I'll be doing the winter series at Don Valley, I'm doing mod but i'm gonna do stock aswell if i can get a spare place on the day.
In stock i'll probably be gearing my Monster between 7.6 and 8.
Are you getting the 15/40's at the track or somewhere abroad (HK Japan USA etc) at a reasonable price?

JCB

which caster block are you using? if 3 try going to the 6 degrees and soften the front shocks.

hope this helps.


-JC

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

Try bring the shock mounting in 1 hole also to get alittle more steering.

Jon

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

Do you guys recommend building the shocks in the regular mode or the adjustable piston mode? I figure that is where I will spend most of my night, building the shocks and getting them all nice and even....

Boy, talk about really wanting to play sick from work today

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

Well its your choice, its nice to have the external adjustmentss, but for me i have an extra set so i built one with adjustable and another non-adjustable. I only run at one track so i just keep the piston settings the same anyways.

But its nice to be able to change the piston settings externally, most kits, or no kits have that.

Jon

raving-monkey

yeah at don valley, i'm gonna try get over and do a few of the jubilee meetings but i dont think i will be able to..it won't hurt to ask me dad

Rob, we get our 15-40's from the lhs (morley models) but newbold usually take looooads of to the onsite shop...aswell as wheels and inserts.

watch out tho, at the juniors the guy at the shop said he didnt have any of the new one piece controlled insert in stock and he doesn't know when he is getting them in..so don't rely just on him as he might not have any, and if he does they are gonna sell fast.

and about understeer, i have 2 pistons open front and rear, with 0 degrees toe on foams..and usually 1 out with rubbers and it turns in really well....i also run 2 degrees rear toe in apposed to std 3 degrees.

dado11g

iTrader: (1)

hey, i just got this on ebay today and i want to know if you guys think it was a good deal. at least i hope ill like it more that the tc3.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT

also, is the evo2 the short arm version? is it the newest version?

thanks
marshalv

Scrad

iTrader: (16)

It looks like it has the long arms on it. But all you would need to do is get the short arms and some hinge pin mounts.

NismoSkyline17

No the factory is the newest eddition. It comes with short amrs and many other new parts.

TigeRyan

iTrader: (7)

I cant believe how light this car is once it is built, I havent put electronics in it yet, but still...

NismoSkyline17

It is very light. Many of Josh Cyrul's setups require 45 gram weight in the center.

dado11g

iTrader: (1)

so what parts would i need to get to make it the short arm? do i need new driveshafts? how much is the decrease in width? how much will it cost? will it be a noticeable difference?

thanks marshalv

NismoSkyline17

All you need is the short arms. They don't change any of the dimentions and you will only be out at most $40. They mount outside the bulkhead instead of inside.

cooliomojo-CEBU

hey, im about to check out a slightly used T1fk from one of the local racers here....what should i look out for? your advice will be much appreciated.

NismoSkyline17

Just the basics that you would normally do when purchasing a used car. Look to make sure all the parts are there and make sure that it is in the condition it is described.