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Old 09-21-2004, 02:25 PM   #9121
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The container still hasn't been released from the Houston Harbour....... I guess security is getting stiffer on ship containers....... Hopefully it will be released sometime this week and then RCAmerica will ship out to everywhere else......

Fortunately Mike's Hobby Shop, my local, is in Dallas along with RCAmerica..... My parts will be here quicker!!!! I pretty much have a stockload of parts already.............

Good luck all!!
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Old 09-21-2004, 02:26 PM   #9122
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Converting the T1 for shaft transmission.... sharing suspension, driveshafts, bumper, bodyposts with the current car.

maybe they do a tamiya and have two racingcars one belt and one shaft. But the belt would still be faster due to better handling
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Old 09-21-2004, 03:37 PM   #9123
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If a Xray Shaft drive kit comes out i will be sure to get it.

Think the batts are gonna be in the same configuration? 3x3? or 6 straight like all the other shaft drive kits?

Can't wait to hear some more info, if there is any.

Jon
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Old 09-21-2004, 04:49 PM   #9124
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Quote:
Originally posted by tonyv
Given the above it should now be clear what the shorter and slightly angled rear upper link gives us: higher roll center and positive camber change. The higher roll center makes the car more reactive while the increased camber change minimizes the resulting loss of rear traction when cornering . This helps us destroy the competition .
Add on to this a bit.

Longer upper arms will roll a bit deaper and take a bit longer to get there when entering a corner.

The end of the car with longer links will take longer to set and take longer to react coming out of the corner. Similar to damping rate changes but more subtle.

The angle of the arms control the deapth of the roll - another way to say what tonyv said about RC change. It puts the RC closer to the CG so the force that makes the car lean in the corner is shorter, and so wont force the car to lean as much

This is why short arms are so much more reactive then long arms on the Xray.
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Old 09-21-2004, 05:40 PM   #9125
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Quote:
Originally posted by JCB
Has anyone tried this setup? If so how did it work out? Better than the regular sway bar setup?

thanks,
JCB,

It looks cool and should work, but the only problem is that when the one wheel is depressed (i.e. while cornering) it will put stress on the center of the sway bar and this will in turn cause the middle of the sway bar to bow down toward the front diff and maybe even rub. It is also heavier than that of the FK sway bar.

That and you are limited on your varying the amount of sway bar flex since the grub screw used to secure the sway bar blades can only be used if the blades are totally flat or all standing up and when this is used you run the risk of the grub screw slipping off of the thin part of the blade.

Look at the last picture and you will see what I am talking about.

Lastly, I would not run my antenna the same way as this guy did!

That...that's what I think!

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Old 09-21-2004, 06:04 PM   #9126
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Still alittle....

Still alittle confused about Droop. I have asked alot of people at my track with Xrays, what droop they use and i get all different anwsers.

I currently run 3 front and 2-3 Rear. I heard 5 front and 4 rear, and then like 6 fron 5 rear. What should i use for Stock Carpet racing. I run fairly well with my droop at its settings.

Also,

I know most people use Light Purple Springs in front ( i think thats the color) and Violet in Rear for springs. Since i do not that that color for the front what is the next best set-up to go to? Violet/Blue? I currently run Violets all around and i seem fine but i need the rear to just come around the slightest bit.

Jon
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:05 PM   #9127
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For what it's worth, Jon, I run 0mm in the front and 2mm in the rear, or 3mm if I want more offpower steering/less rear traction coming into the corners. Running 2mm versus 3mm seems to help my car rotate through the corners better.

Rob
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:30 PM   #9128
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Hi guys,

What other parts do i need to change my T1R long arms to the Evo2 short arms?
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:41 PM   #9129
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devil666
Hi guys,

What other parts do i need to change my T1R long arms to the Evo2 short arms?

new chassis(are u runing the t1r chassis still) if so u have to get the CF chassis to run the short arms


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Old 09-21-2004, 09:23 PM   #9130
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really? yes im still using the T1-R chassis...didnt know that i needed to change the CF chassis too...thanks anyways..
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Old 09-22-2004, 01:29 AM   #9131
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Default Woo-Hoo!

Just ordered me an Xray T1R I also got the low ratio pulleys and hollow alum. layshaft. Are there any little tips on prepping the car? Like soaking the belts in WD40, or something? I can't wait to get it.
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Old 09-22-2004, 02:36 AM   #9132
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Quote:
Originally posted by micros_rock
Just ordered me an Xray T1R I also got the low ratio pulleys and hollow alum. layshaft. Are there any little tips on prepping the car? Like soaking the belts in WD40, or something? I can't wait to get it.
Is it on the way or are you on the prorder lists like most us? The latest is they are not shipping for a couple of more weeks. I have been hearing the same story for a month now. Just about ready to give up.
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Old 09-22-2004, 04:46 AM   #9133
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Its horrible how people are STILL waiting for there kits and parts to come. Well no need for me to be crying since i got all my stuff, lol.

Thanks Losirob on the droop help. I actually asked John Fontaine and he helped me out also. He said lower droop gives you more steering. He also helped me out with shock position and/or 3*-6* c-hubs.

Thanks to all who replied.

Jon
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:51 AM   #9134
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You're welcome, Jon. I run 0/2 on the droop with 6 degree hubs on asphalt and have all the steering I could ever want.

Rob
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Old 09-22-2004, 07:10 AM   #9135
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Ya i am running 3-2 and 3* c-hubs, but i switched over to 6* c-hubs and brought the shock mounting in one hole. I should get some more steering but hopefully not too much, i might switch back to 3*.

I will probably change my droop to 2-1 on carpet and see how it is. Thanks again Rob

Jon
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