Xray T1
#8506
Originally posted by new92
This may be a dumb question but here goes anyway....oh yea, I am at work right now or I would try myself lol...but while I am thinking about it....
I have the T1R last series I was running a Monster with the stock 93 spur and a 28 pinion .....The 28 is the largest I can go when placing the pinion on the motor and then sliding it thru the bulkhead...the 29 will not fit in the opening in the bulkhead.
Can I put the motor on without the pinion then slide the pinion on after the motor is loosely mounted in the bulkhead.....I mean I know I physically CAN do it but would the larger pinion push the motor down too far or below the chassis? What is the biggest pinion you have run with the stock spur?
I will probably pick up some more spurs anyway, but just wondering if I need to get them before this weekend or can I wait a few days?
This may be a dumb question but here goes anyway....oh yea, I am at work right now or I would try myself lol...but while I am thinking about it....
I have the T1R last series I was running a Monster with the stock 93 spur and a 28 pinion .....The 28 is the largest I can go when placing the pinion on the motor and then sliding it thru the bulkhead...the 29 will not fit in the opening in the bulkhead.
Can I put the motor on without the pinion then slide the pinion on after the motor is loosely mounted in the bulkhead.....I mean I know I physically CAN do it but would the larger pinion push the motor down too far or below the chassis? What is the biggest pinion you have run with the stock spur?
I will probably pick up some more spurs anyway, but just wondering if I need to get them before this weekend or can I wait a few days?
example: you run 93/28 which equals 3.32 ratio
if you switched to 90/27 your ratio would be 3.33 so it wouldnt change much at all but your motor would be higher.
I was running 93/28 for a while and the motor can was getting scratched on the track surface. After I started tuning my motors they were getting too hot with this ratio so I geared down a little. Now I run more like 93/26 and it is perfect because it is super low but not dragging which is ideal.
#8507
Re: couple set up q's
Originally posted by JDXray
Okay whats better for carpet stock racing?
3 degrees anti-dive or 0?
And same for Rear Anti-Squat?
0 or 3?
And for Caster blocks, If i were to run 3 degree anti-dive with 3 degree caster it would be 6 degree caster. But would it be the same as running 6 degree caster blocks with 0 degree anti-dive?
Sounds alittle confusing but any information would help.
Thanks
Jon
Okay whats better for carpet stock racing?
3 degrees anti-dive or 0?
And same for Rear Anti-Squat?
0 or 3?
And for Caster blocks, If i were to run 3 degree anti-dive with 3 degree caster it would be 6 degree caster. But would it be the same as running 6 degree caster blocks with 0 degree anti-dive?
Sounds alittle confusing but any information would help.
Thanks
Jon
-Kevin
#8509
Tech Regular
Hi guys, i was wondering if it was ok to grind/sand down the teeth on the front diff pulley for stock racing
Chazz
Chazz
#8510
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
Chazz- there is really no need too. The drivetrain is so free already. You can set all your bulkheads on the loosest setttings for stock racing. I have found that it is the best for me so far. Its very light on the drivetrain and is effective. So just change the notchs on the bulkheads toward the loose settings.
#8511
Originally posted by Chazz
Hi guys, i was wondering if it was ok to grind/sand down the teeth on the front diff pulley for stock racing
Chazz
Hi guys, i was wondering if it was ok to grind/sand down the teeth on the front diff pulley for stock racing
Chazz
#8512
Tech Regular
So you just gring it bold so it's nice and smooth
#8513
Pretty much I dremel away every other tooth on the front pulley. Don't touch the layshaft pulleys or the rear pulley.
#8514
Originally posted by JDXray
I am running a T1R. I guess the same question for my bros car too. But he has an FK. So a T1R and FK.
I am running a T1R. I guess the same question for my bros car too. But he has an FK. So a T1R and FK.
On the other hand, your brother has the FK bulkheads, so he can run anti-dive (3* max...I think). Same thing goes for him. Try out 0* and if he feels like playing around with it, 3* of anti-dive would probably be the next best thing.
Either way, I like 0* though. That is what I almost always run on carpet.
-Kevin
#8515
Tech Regular
Thanks Neil
#8517
RCCadet
Thanks for the info and the offer of the trackside help
^5
^5
#8518
Originally posted by JDXray
Thanks Kevin for clearing things up. I will switch back to 0 kick up and i will let my bro know which ever one he wants. Thanks
-Jon
Thanks Kevin for clearing things up. I will switch back to 0 kick up and i will let my bro know which ever one he wants. Thanks
-Jon
#8519
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
after switchin back to 0 kickup instead of 0. I noticed a droop and ride height change. Doesnt sound normal to me, but i was wondering what people droops are for stock carpet racing.
I have mine at 0mm (front) and 1mm(Rear) And as for ride height i just left it at 4.5 and 5. (I have asked this question before, but only one response and it was 8mm. Sounds alittle Hight) Thanks for the help.
Jon
I have mine at 0mm (front) and 1mm(Rear) And as for ride height i just left it at 4.5 and 5. (I have asked this question before, but only one response and it was 8mm. Sounds alittle Hight) Thanks for the help.
Jon
#8520
Tech Master
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Where there's smoke there's a tyre
Posts: 1,784
Trader Rating: 22 (100%+)
the ride height and droop will change because the angle of the arms has changed.
i run 2mm droop front and rear from the lowest point on the plastic c hubs(not the screw on the front) and it works well everwhere for foams,
i run 2mm droop front and rear from the lowest point on the plastic c hubs(not the screw on the front) and it works well everwhere for foams,