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Old 08-16-2004, 11:49 AM   #8491
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Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
Rear toe in
I tryied running 1 degree & it was awfull,then a experience x-ray driver told me allways stay at 3 degree
Does any one else go this way as well? this is on asphalt with rubber not them spongy looking things(foams)
Never get yourself locked into thinking that one setting must always be used. I always use 2 deg rear toe-in and I think I am an experienced Xray driver too..but I would never tell someone ALWAYS use 2 degree rear toe.

Just try different settings and use what works best for you but keep an open mind.
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Old 08-16-2004, 03:29 PM   #8492
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Qwig, thanks.

I realize that these "car" kits have their own little particulars, however, it took you guys to remind of simple basics [would have eventually thought of the rear toe in, you guys just saved me a bit of time and a lot frustration.....

^5s

Last edited by Tom G; 08-17-2004 at 04:01 AM.
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Old 08-16-2004, 10:32 PM   #8493
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Default REAR TOE IN

I run 27t stock mostly, so i was under the impression to run as little toe in as poss to keep the speed up in a straight line also aiding accelleration & braking so that is why i was on 1 degree

But i suppose with a car with so much steering you properly have to run 2+ degree on the rear to keep it in line

Q) Would it have been better to run 6 degree castor blocks instead of std 3 degree

The problem i had just a little to much initial turn in(snatch)
Moving from 1 degree to 3 degree cured this but it then felt it lost it`s zip (to much slip angle on rear)

The handling of the car was 95% there it was just the last 5% i was after
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Old 08-17-2004, 03:21 AM   #8494
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Default Xray swaybar kit

Hi guys,

I just built my Factory Kit and found a swaybar set for sale, its from and original T1. Will this setup work on my FK?

Cheers Dave
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Old 08-17-2004, 05:41 AM   #8495
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Default Re: Performance/Set-up questions: Evo2 w/ pivot ball-long arm suspension

Quote:
Originally posted by Tom G


The track [Mike's in Carrolton, TX] is considered a medium to high bite ozite track and mixed technical, or so I've been told [not enough experience yet to make determinations of my own].

Thanks gang!
Sorry to step back this far in the convo, but we are not racing on Ozite. We are running on the DuPont version and I feel it has much more consistant bite and the track is high-bite still.

Ninety percent of us (I'm using a FTTC3 at the moment) run XRAY's so there is ample help at the track. I would be willing to help you with your starting point or sweet-spot settings. Your driving style will dictate your settings.
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Old 08-17-2004, 05:59 AM   #8496
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Quote:
found a swaybar set for sale, its from and original T1. Will this setup work on my FK?
Dave, if the front bar is the blade type, it won't work on the FK.
The rear is the same on all X Rays
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Old 08-17-2004, 06:03 AM   #8497
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Default Re: REAR TOE IN

Quote:
Originally posted by MR JOLLY
I run 27t stock mostly, so i was under the impression to run as little toe in as poss to keep the speed up in a straight line also aiding accelleration & braking so that is why i was on 1 degree

But i suppose with a car with so much steering you properly have to run 2+ degree on the rear to keep it in line

Q) Would it have been better to run 6 degree castor blocks instead of std 3 degree

The problem i had just a little to much initial turn in(snatch)
Moving from 1 degree to 3 degree cured this but it then felt it lost it`s zip (to much slip angle on rear)

The handling of the car was 95% there it was just the last 5% i was after
How much automatic brake to you have set on your radio/esc? When I run stock I adjust my throttle trim so the car will move at a walkingk pace when the radio is at neutral. This will help eliminate some initial turn in. You should try 2* rear toe in.
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Old 08-17-2004, 06:37 AM   #8498
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Quote:
Originally posted by fastolfart
Dave, if the front bar is the blade type, it won't work on the FK.
The rear is the same on all X Rays
Ok then ill make sure ill ask...

Thanks for that
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Old 08-17-2004, 06:37 AM   #8499
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This may be a dumb question but here goes anyway....oh yea, I am at work right now or I would try myself lol...but while I am thinking about it....


I have the T1R last series I was running a Monster with the stock 93 spur and a 28 pinion .....The 28 is the largest I can go when placing the pinion on the motor and then sliding it thru the bulkhead...the 29 will not fit in the opening in the bulkhead.

Can I put the motor on without the pinion then slide the pinion on after the motor is loosely mounted in the bulkhead.....I mean I know I physically CAN do it but would the larger pinion push the motor down too far or below the chassis? What is the biggest pinion you have run with the stock spur?

I will probably pick up some more spurs anyway, but just wondering if I need to get them before this weekend or can I wait a few days?
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Old 08-17-2004, 07:24 AM   #8500
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Just curious, how big is the track your running on ? 29 tooth pinion seems a tad large with a 93 tooth spur. The biggest pinion I've used with a moster stock and a 93 tooth spur is 25 and I though that was pushing it.
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Old 08-17-2004, 07:36 AM   #8501
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It is the only track I have ever raced on so I dont really have anything to compare it too. From what others have said though its pretty big. I was running the 28 pinion with the Monster to keep up with everyone else. The motor would get pretty hot but going any smaller and I was getting blown by on the straight. I will find a picture of the old layout...it is a banked oval, with the touring track in the infield.....the new layout uses a back straight just a tad longer than the oval straight (considering they have longer corners).

The 29 and higher pinion was going to be for the 19T we are running this series.


Here is a link to the picture page of the track...the webmaster of that site is an oval driver so you sorta have to look through the oval cars to see the layout lol. The touring layout has changed just a bit but the straight is just a bit longer than the old dirt straight.
http://home.comcast.net/~shawnleary/...ld/photos.html

THe site has it listed as a 360 ft drive line for the oval track.


Attached is an overhead view of the old layout but sorta hard to judge prospective.


Its a really really nice track, looking at the pictures it looks alot bigger than what I noticed when there lol....guess I never really noticed it when people are standing around for the scale effect lol.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg hwapr2004.jpg (86.4 KB, 122 views)

Last edited by new92; 08-17-2004 at 07:42 AM.
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Old 08-17-2004, 07:56 AM   #8502
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Your right, that's a nice track !! If the track is as large as it looks and your running a 19 turn maybe a 29 would be ok. It just seems like a lot of gear.
I just looked back a couple of posts and you said your running a T1R. Did you switch to the low ratio pulley set ? If not then larger pinions make more sense.
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Old 08-17-2004, 08:02 AM   #8503
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No, I still have the stock pulley set. I was debating off and on of getting the low ratio set. I think I am going to get a one-way first though. Thanks for the help and info.

Like I said I have never been anywhere else but this summer a few friends took a trip with some of the other guys from the track and all came back saying..."wow, our track IS huge" lol. I will be traveling soon though so we will see lol.
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Old 08-17-2004, 09:01 AM   #8504
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Default couple set up q's

Okay whats better for carpet stock racing?

3 degrees anti-dive or 0?

And same for Rear Anti-Squat?

0 or 3?

And for Caster blocks, If i were to run 3 degree anti-dive with 3 degree caster it would be 6 degree caster. But would it be the same as running 6 degree caster blocks with 0 degree anti-dive?

Sounds alittle confusing but any information would help.

Thanks

Jon
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Old 08-17-2004, 09:09 AM   #8505
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This was just asked on mytsn...and I am glad you guys did because I was just thinking about this myself the other night.
Here is what was posted and the response:


Set up Difference RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
KENNY CHAN (HK) 08.17.04 at 03:58
Hi Tony,

Would you please tell me if there is any difference between the two setups below assuming using C Hub configuration.

1. 0 degree anti-dive with 3 degree caster block;
2. 3 degree anti-dive with 0 degree caster block.

Thanks.

Regards,
Kenny
RESPOND | ADD TO FAQ
TONY VREDENBERG (NL) 08.17.04 at 11:27
Hi Kenny,

Yes there is a difference. While the effective caster (3 degrees) and resultant effect is the same, the difference is in the anti-dive (or in this case kick-up).

Running 0 degree anti-dive will result in less chassis roll compared to running 3 degrees (kick-up). On bumpy tracks running 3 degrees will make the car handle the bumps better.

So, if you want to run 3 degrees of caster, on bumpy tracks it is best to use setup 2, on smooth tracks setup 1 will work better.
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