Neil Rabara

That must have been one hell of a crash. Looks like it was a faulty mold in the aluminum, or a hairline fracture that broke at the time of the crash.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hello,

I am afraid you really cannot do this. The reasn Josh Cyrul and the BMI chassis are able to do this is because the batteries on the left are not in the stock forward position. They are a little bit back. I am afraid to say for now you have to cut a slot to tape them in or buy the BMI special order split chassis.

Ray

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

i know that the XRay Shocks bind alittle on the car, is there anyway to prevent that? Like a part/hopup to stop the binding?

sands

Polish the shafts with auto body polish. Mount the pistons on the shafts. Chuck the piston/shaft assy in a dremel and gently polish the outside edges of the pistons until they don't bind in the shock body. Use a brillow pad for this. Don't overdo it or your shock action will be inconsistent. don't score the shaft when you chuck it either for obvious reasons.

Use associated green slime on the o-rings when you build them.

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

thanks sands, could i use ft tc3 shocks? what advantage would that give me? or disadvantages?

D_Ames

iTrader: (1)

Hi Guys...I've been contemplating buying this car but it seems to me that it needs a lot of hop ups. So far I've heard of these problems.

Suspention pieces too flexible- need aluminum knuckles and aluminum rear uprights. That's about $120 bucks right there. Some team drivers trying to stiffen up the arms also.

Aluminum wheel hubs flare and get stuck in the bearings- need spring steel wheel hubs. That's about $60 bucks.

A lot of people buying after market chassis already (not sure how much)

Now the shocks!! Oh, and an assortment set of springs is about $50 bucks! ouch!!

And sway bar kits $30 bucks for the front, $30 bucks for te rear. Xray should really include sway bars with the kit.

Anyway, I know the car is good, it just seems like a bit of a money pit to me.

This post is not meant to offend or start a war, I just want to know what Xray owners think

Rob Mincey

The only "hopups" I've bought for my car are the springs and I'm as competitive as anyone else on an equipment level. You don't HAVE to have the spring steel hubs, or the BMI chasis, or anything else... Like anything in this hobby, most of it is a matter of personal preference.

Rob

JohnMatrix

I am also thinking of getting an xray also. I found it online for 299, I cant wait.

If its as good as it looks I cant wait.

Safe SX

Don't get me wrong I have just purchased a factory kit impressed with the car the thing I am not impressed with the manufactures as they think we are ignorant people they put this new kit out as is the factory kit it has the old set up book that only deals with the pillowball setups it has the cheapness of a re-stickered EVO 2 box and the list goes on of all the little things they left out which other models come with.

berger

iTrader: (1)

I was looking on stormer hobbys site, someone mentioned it a couple of pages back for the spring steel axles to replace the front ones on my car as the others seem to have mis shaped a bit and i have had a few problems removing them before. I have an Evo 2 with all the FK options so i asume i would want part XRA305215, it says that they are unsuitable for Evo 2 but im guessing in my case this wouldnt be a problem. Can someone else confirm this?

sands

I think you can. Xrays are adustable, which is a kick @ss tuning option. You will be amazed as how easy it is to tune the car with them. They are worth the trouble to make them work right.

sands

You would be supprised at how expensive new graphics and manuals are to design and make. I'd rather have the money spent on the car then the box.

JohnMatrix

Good point.

Rob Mincey

Regarding the Evo2 FOC's setup book used in the Factory Kits... The information is still relevant. Adding more caster to a pivot ball car does the same thing as adding more caster to a c-hub car, you just do it in different ways. Same with droop/uptravel, camber, etc... I'm glad to have the reference, even if I have to actually "think" about how to apply it to the Factory Car.

Of course, some people will always find something to gripe about. If it's not the setupbook (which, incidentally, most car kits don't come with one that's as nice, if they come with one at all,) it will be the price, or the fact that there are only 0/3/6 degree c-hubs and not 2/4... If the fact that the setup book isn't specifically for the FK turns you away from the kit, then so be it.

Rob

NVisible

iTrader: (1)

exactly, And if you arent happy with your FK you can always send it to me. thx