imjonah

"-all current competitive 27turn motors use laydown brushes."

I got this Reedy stock motor on E-bay somebody modified to use standup brushes. Why would they make this change? and I take it this mod makes it not ROar Legal?

Neil Rabara

It's weird to have an adjustable one-way. It should be working or not.

B4

iTrader: (1)

Sorry if this has been asked before.

Has anyone done the conversion from the Evo 2 to the FK. If so do you have a list of the parts reqd for the conversion.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

for a full conversion, not worth it. you have bulkheads, diffs, drive axels, dog bones, short arms, hinge pin retainers, center layshaft, rear shock tower all ball ends to captured ones. depending on the version of evo 2, you may need c-hub conversion. I think one it was all said and done, you are looking at $275+ for parts. And that is if you go to ebay for the bulkhead becasue they are not available as a part from xray yet.

rice

dude better sell ur evo 2 and buy a fk kit it will save u a lot. or keep ur evo 2 and get a fk.

jag88

iTrader: (1)

Anybody have a part number for the carpet front tower?
Thanks.

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

cant you just buy FK bulkheads and arms and it will become a FK? thats what i heard. everything else you can keep on the evo 2.

ChrisP

iTrader: (11)

By the time you buy the parts to change it you'll be further ahead to just buy a new kit. The mod to short arms isn't that expensive, but replacing the bulkheads on top of that and going to the lightweight drive hexes shafts and diffs adds up to somoe seriouos $$$...

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

no i mean, do you really have to buy all that stuff, cant you just get bulkheads and short arms and its fk?

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

well if you want to go that far, you would not have to buy the bulkheads, you just need a steady hand to put the 1.5 hole in. and you can cut the mounts for the pillow balls. then you have factory. When you say you want to go to a factory kit, those that i listed are the differences. I can tell you that once you convert to short arms, you will want to go to the light weight bulkheads, then the light weight diffs and then the light weight bones, then the light weight hex axels at least for the rear, and you will al least want the factory shock towers, and so on and so on. I know guys that traded up and I know guys that upgraded. I can tell you it is cheaper by far, and you will be happier with just trading up. even if you sell the evo2 for $150, you will be saving a ton. and then you have an authentic factory kit. And one thing that I know you can not buy just yet. the factory kit has a right front bulkhead-rear hinge pin mount, that is not sold in any of the mounting kits. if you download the instruction, you will see that all of the mounts have an aluminum retainer but one. and the reason? if you have the aluminum retainer, you will not be able to mount the servo in place. This mount is not part of the 2+1+1 kit. My pit mate had to beg Ralph for one.

Rob Mincey

You'd also have to mill away a good amount of material from the rear bulkhead as well to make it more like a FK. Performance wise, I'd say the only thing you'd need to do to your Evo2 is the short arm conversion and the low ratio pulleys. The pulleys will cost you around $30 U.S.... Not sure about the cost of the short arm conversion, though.

Rob

Rob Mincey

Sorry for posting this in the XRay forum, and not the "want to buy" forum, but...

Does anyone have an original T1 chasis they'd like to part with? I'm looking for something to try on carpet.

Rob

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

same with losirob, i am looking for Xray kit too. I have a Pro 4 to trade

momotalo

hi
what the different if i use the long arm and short arm in the xray T1??

JDXray

iTrader: (3)

short arms bolt onto the bulkheads instead of the long arms. I also believe there alittle harder to break because there shorter. The long arms go on the inside of the bulkheads.