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Old 07-15-2004, 08:30 AM   #7951
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag88
Neil, can you elaborate a little. I'm curious as to what you didn't like about it.
I remember a ways back that the HPI Pro 2 offered an ajustable center oneway as an option.
Thanks.
It's a good idea to replace the stock center one way pulley with the locked pulley because they do the same job. However, the center one way pulley has more mass and heavier which can be a factor for getting a car up to speed.
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Old 07-15-2004, 07:52 PM   #7952
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Motor brush question

I got a motor [as part of a sale] that I believe is an Epic 27 [which is what is printed on the armature and can be seen from outside of the can] with new brushes [serrated with no eyelets].

Would replacements brushes be stand-up or lay-down [what is the difference]?
Any suggestions on replacement brushes?
When is it time to replace them?
Anything else I need to know?

Thanks in advance!
Tom G
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Old 07-15-2004, 08:23 PM   #7953
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Default center-one-way vs. solid layshaft.

Also-when you lock the adjustable center one-way-the car doesnt handle right. Cannot explain it-but the weird mid-corner handling goes away when you pull out the locked one-way and put in a solid layshaft!!

Ray

Quote:
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
It's a good idea to replace the stock center one way pulley with the locked pulley because they do the same job. However, the center one way pulley has more mass and heavier which can be a factor for getting a car up to speed.

Last edited by rayhuang; 07-15-2004 at 09:51 PM.
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Old 07-15-2004, 08:24 PM   #7954
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tom,

27 turn is a stock motor. so most likely laydown brushes. this means they are longer across then up and down. As far as brushes go, there are a hundred different opinions. but reedy #767 or trinity 4499 or even putnam greens and blue. just depended on what motor it is and how much you like working on it.

Alot of the guys at Mike's run the birdman motor or lightspeeds. And Mark has a 4910 that i think he like for most of his motors
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Old 07-15-2004, 09:54 PM   #7955
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theisgroup-how goes it? YOu know how much I love this FK Xray, but I drove Ciccarello's Tc3 after the races ended Tuesday night (its become tradition for the entire A-main to swap radios till none of know where are cars are whos got our radios at end of night) and his TC3 was awesome.

I want to exclaim on the mountain that the Xray FK is the best darn car made-but after driiving Chicky's car-its a toss-up. hes really got that thing dialed in.

Are you runnin carpet/foams right now-or runnng on rubbers n asphalt? If carpet foam-then e-mail me.

Ray
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Old 07-15-2004, 10:43 PM   #7956
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Default Re: Motor brush question

Quote:
Originally posted by Tom G
I got a motor [as part of a sale] that I believe is an Epic 27 [which is what is printed on the armature and can be seen from outside of the can] with new brushes [serrated with no eyelets].

Would replacements brushes be stand-up or lay-down [what is the difference]?
Any suggestions on replacement brushes?
When is it time to replace them?
Anything else I need to know?

Thanks in advance!
Tom G
^5
-all current competitive 27turn motors use laydown brushes.

-brushes made by putnam are quite good. normally high silver content brushes are best for stock; but on hot places these types of brushes easily decolorize so we use low silver content brushes with comm drops to maximize its performance.

- replace brushes when: 1-if the legs of one of your springs are aligned it means your brush is too short thus the spring may not be able to push the brush towards the comm. 2-on race days once the brush decolorizes its good to change cause it looses a bit of power. not that its useless. infact it would still run but if you are a power freak its better if you change

-REMEMBER!!! you must always cut the motor when you cange brushes!!!!!!! or else your motor will eat up your brush quite quickly.
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Old 07-16-2004, 04:04 AM   #7957
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Quote:
Originally posted by theisgroup
tom,

27 turn is a stock motor. so most likely laydown brushes. this means they are longer across then up and down. As far as brushes go, there are a hundred different opinions. but reedy #767 or trinity 4499 or even putnam greens and blue. just depended on what motor it is and how much you like working on it.

Alot of the guys at Mike's run the birdman motor or lightspeeds. And Mark has a 4910 that i think he like for most of his motors
Thanks for the info, it explains and provides quite a bit.

I finally got to run some laps at Mike's and the car is starting to come around [I'm changing balls and ends-I have some play in the steering that won't allow it to track straight and almost 2 degree difference when setting it up-should be easy enough to figure out once I start work on it].

Realized too, a bumpy strecth near the Parts Dept door [thought it was glitchy around that area, so I took a closer look after the run-it may still be a glitch since it did the same at another spot, but it could have been the tracking issue].

I'm eventually going to pick-up a Lightspeed motor [I have a used one but would like to note the performance straight out the "box".

The motor I ran [Epic] seemed to get awfully hot to the touch [about 110F after a minute or so of natural cooldown time] even after gearing down [although a bit less hot, but still hot]. It may be normal, but I've run a Trinity Speed Gems 11x2 on a 12 scale kit and it never seemed to get that hot [only noticed the heat after picking up the car and incidentaly touching the can, which prompted the temp readings]. However, the brushes didn't show any signs of being affected [no discoloration at all on them, barely any wear].

The one thing I'll never do again, is forget my desk top fan! LOL Man, it was hot... I'm still sweating. LOL

Thiesgroup, once again, thanks!
^5
Tom G
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Old 07-16-2004, 04:12 AM   #7958
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S-T-R-l-K-E-R

Thanks for all the info. Especially the tip on the comm cuts. You have probably saved me hours of frustration, bunches of dollars and thoughts of quitting this "!#!%@ hobby" before I would have figured the excessive wear out on my own!

If I had truly accepted "Knowledge is power" back in high school, I would have actually paid attention when I was younger!


Tanx a bunch!
Tom G
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Old 07-16-2004, 04:17 AM   #7959
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Default theisgroup & S-T-R-I-K-E-R

A ^5 and a []0 of Ale for both of ya!

Gimme a minute, and I'll start on getting the hot wings over to ya [of course, brought to you by smiling, provacatively dressed gals wearing white and orange].

Really, thanks for the education!
Tom G
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:03 AM   #7960
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Default Setup question

You can use either rollbars or a higher roll center to decrease roll (obviously...), but when are one preferred before the other??

(I'm sorry for double posting, but I wanted to ask the TC3 guys on their opinion also so I posted my question on their thread as well.)
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Old 07-16-2004, 06:06 AM   #7961
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Quote:
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
I use a dremel to open up the two holes. I don't put another spur on top of it though, I just mark it with a sharpie.
ur idea is good too. but if u want to be precise the method glide1 used is very good.
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Old 07-16-2004, 08:11 AM   #7962
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Default Re: Setup question

Quote:
Originally posted by OleC
You can use either rollbars or a higher roll center to decrease roll (obviously...), but when are one preferred before the other??
Roll center modification will impact different parts of the corner. It essentially modifies how fast and how far that end of the car will transition. You can get the car to oversteer on entry, neutral mid and understeer on exit (if that is what you want) by changing roll centers, caster, camber, damping, spring rate, etc.

Roll bars do the same, but at a more basic level. They generally impact behavior over the entire corner (entry, mid, exit). Roll bars are generally bad on bumpy tracks because they tie the left and right side together. On smooth tracks they work great though.

Bottom line, if your car is fast and neutral in the corner, you have the correct setup. Different drivers will have different setups and have the same lap times and corner speeds.
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Old 07-16-2004, 05:02 PM   #7963
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I have an FK and find that the body is resting on the front shock tower. I would like to lower the body but can't for that reason.
Anybody know of a way around this problem ?
Thanks.
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Old 07-16-2004, 05:17 PM   #7964
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carpet shock tower is a little lower
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Old 07-16-2004, 05:49 PM   #7965
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Quote:
Originally posted by jag88
I have an FK and find that the body is resting on the front shock tower. I would like to lower the body but can't for that reason.
Anybody know of a way around this problem ?
Thanks.
me to hav the same prob. in my case i hav a new body fit it first to check the height of the body. unless u change the front shock tower . in my first body it has a clearance of abt 4mm to the front shock tower i put ducktape to protect the paint.
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