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Old 07-04-2004, 10:34 PM   #7741
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Can I get some help from some xray experts. Will the low ratio pulleys make a big difference when i'm racing in stock class? Is the solid center layshaft better than the one-way? The reason I'm asking is because I recently bought an xray with both setups but I only have the spur and pinion combination for the oneway. And if I change to the low ratio pulleys, that means I'll have to buy new pinions and new spurs since the ratios will be way off. If the difference isnt too big...I would rather save some money. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:10 PM   #7742
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I dont think it makes as big of a difference as what everyone seems to say/think,I ran them on a outdoor(parking lot)track,tight,not to big,car seemed to lose punch coming out of the turns,(and yes I did change the pinion for the right ratio's.. ) I was told that the low ratio pullys would help by putting the belts at a better angle(less drag)I still run them but I dont see a huge performance gain..maybe I missed something at Xray school.. But I would invest in a large set of pinion gears,not every motor likes to be geared the same..one ratio does not work on every track..
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Old 07-04-2004, 11:18 PM   #7743
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The low ratio pullies work as they are suppose to.Its the same with both the Schuie and the Xray cars.Go ahead xxxkat,say something negative about the Schuie or the pullies.Just to let the person know who originally asked the question,if you go through both this thread and the Schuie thread the results are usually the same for 99 percent of the people when it comes to running the low ratio pullies.More efficient and little better acceleration.
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Old 07-05-2004, 12:09 AM   #7744
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I feel the same way about the low ratio pullies. I thought they weren't really needed. I thought they worked better with a 19t and mod over a stock motor. I have 2 xrays one will low ratio the other standard. They both accelerate about the same I think. The pinion difference is usually about 4 teeth off.
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Old 07-05-2004, 12:22 AM   #7745
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Quote:
I had a problem with the short arms due to how quick it transfered weight in high speed giant sweepers. The car wanted to break out of the turn midway thru leaving me to have to work the wheel to get the car to hold thru the turn
try lowering the rear roll center or laying the rear shocks down
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Old 07-05-2004, 08:49 AM   #7746
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Me..Say something bad about the Mi2..surely you jest.. Racenut I dont really think the Mi2 is a bad car at all,In fact it looks alot like my Tech MYO2R and it(the Tech)looks like a 415 and all 3 of them share the same basic design(look)as the old yokomo mr4tc..I just give Clint a "Bad" time over it..You know as full on of a Losi guy he was.. I own alot of TC's and none of them are any better than the other's..
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Old 07-05-2004, 10:38 AM   #7747
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hixsy
i mean they wear and the bearing is difficult to remove
from the hub. is it worth investing in the spring steel version?
The aluminum hubs are not "wearing badly". They are spread apart. This will happen after about a week or two of consistent use. The spring steel hubs are a lot harder and won't spread apart. It's worth the investment.
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:17 AM   #7748
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Quote:
Originally posted by Neil Rabara
The aluminum hubs are not "wearing badly". They are spread apart. This will happen after about a week or two of consistent use. The spring steel hubs are a lot harder and won't spread apart. It's worth the investment.
but arent they heavyer then the aluminum ones???? or not enough to matter?
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:29 AM   #7749
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I did not think it's enough to matter,In fact I thought they were lighter..
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:29 AM   #7750
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I don't know about you guys, but my car's significantly underweight as it is. The spring steel hubs might be worthwhile on a couple of different levels. 1.) The durability, and 2.) adding balanced weight at all four corners - it's evenly spread out, and helps get the car closer to the legal limit.

I know, adding weight along the center line is a better option, but still...

Rob
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:40 AM   #7751
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I never had a problem with the rear hubs,Just the front..I guess If I quit hitting stuff..But I've never been a quitter..
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Old 07-05-2004, 11:48 AM   #7752
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Quote:
Originally posted by losirob
I don't know about you guys, but my car's significantly underweight as it is. The spring steel hubs might be worthwhile on a couple of different levels. 1.) The durability, and 2.) adding balanced weight at all four corners - it's evenly spread out, and helps get the car closer to the legal limit.

I know, adding weight along the center line is a better option, but still...

Rob
overall wieght is not the issue I was thinking about but it is a good point. I was leaning more to the issue of rotating mass . would be interesting to wiegh the two and see which is lighter
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Old 07-05-2004, 01:30 PM   #7753
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
I never had a problem with the rear hubs,Just the front..I guess If I quit hitting stuff..But I've never been a quitter..
XXXKat...ROFLMAO!

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Old 07-05-2004, 03:00 PM   #7754
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HEEEEEEEEEELP
I just built a FT the front ride height is good for me
But the rear ride height is at 7mm kit settings on the hole position front,droop is 2fr,5rr,shock length on all shocks is 72mm,
Also can`t use 26mm rims on back if i use the outside holes on wishbones, well i can but the edge of the rim rubs against the ballend of the shock
Any ideas
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Old 07-05-2004, 03:47 PM   #7755
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If you use the outer holes on the rear hubs, it's possible that the camber links are hitting the top of the hubs and not letting the car settle like it should. I ran into this problem when I built the car. After moving the rear camber link ball stud to the inside hole, everything was within range.

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