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Old 06-27-2004, 07:47 PM
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Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Rust? That's new to me. Anyone else?
yep, rust has got me too. one time we were caught in the rain, and wasnt able to store my FOC immediately, some splashes got to it, and lo and behold, the following way, my shiny hinge pins had rust already.

what i did was use 2000 grit sandpaper, and they were back to normal, all shiny and looking like new.

side question:

do you guys notice that the shiny areas in ur hudy tools get grime and loose their shine after a few uses. any solutions to this?

tanx in advance.
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Old 06-27-2004, 08:02 PM
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Originally posted by Coney

One more if ya's dont mind...

Did anyone else experience binding of the rear arms on their T1 FK's?
How did you solve it?



Thanks.

Coney
i experienced it in my FOC conversion, try using sandpaper on the holes in the arms, dont overdo it though, you dont want the holes to be too loose.
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Old 06-27-2004, 08:25 PM
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Default Re: blade sway bars

Originally posted by scmicromike
Where can I find an instruction sheet to this sway bar set.
Here are the instruction sheet from the Xray site:
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/pro...&kategoria=528
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:24 PM
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Originally posted by evaa
i experienced it in my FOC conversion, try using sandpaper on the holes in the arms, dont overdo it though, you dont want the holes to be too loose.
Please no-dont open the holes in the arms-they are perfect. Just sand one of the plastic clips a bit till all the clips fit in without binding-or do what i did-I keep ONE very thin washer on the arms and dont use the 0.5mm clip. Basically any washer or shim you have in your toolbox thats thinner than the thinnest clip.

This way you get zero movement of the arms fore and aft, but free flop of the arms.

Does that make sense? if not I'll try my best to be more specific.
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:31 PM
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Originally posted by rayhuang
Please no-dont open the holes in the arms-they are perfect. Just sand one of the plastic clips a bit till all the clips fit in without binding-or do what i did-I keep ONE very thin washer on the arms and dont use the 0.5mm clip. Basically any washer or shim you have in your toolbox thats thinner than the thinnest clip.

This way you get zero movement of the arms fore and aft, but free flop of the arms.

Does that make sense? if not I'll try my best to be more specific.
yep, did that, but the problem didnt go away, i also removed the turnbuckles taht served as upper arms, but the problem persisted. then i tried sliding the hinge pin in and out of the arms and found out that they were a bit too tight, so i sanded the arms with 2000 grit sandpaper just to smothen them out, and viola, perfect, no binding.

well just my .02 though
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Old 06-27-2004, 09:47 PM
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Originally posted by evaa
yep, rust has got me too. one time we were caught in the rain, and wasnt able to store my FOC immediately, some splashes got to it, and lo and behold, the following way, my shiny hinge pins had rust already.
Maybe I should check my car too

Because while you guys were packing your gear and kept your car in your bags the following day, my partner and me were having fun running our cars through the wet tracks that sunday.

It was fun too We did not burn anything.
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Old 06-27-2004, 10:38 PM
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Originally posted by rough512
Maybe I should check my car too

Because while you guys were packing your gear and kept your car in your bags the following day, my partner and me were having fun running our cars through the wet tracks that sunday.

It was fun too We did not burn anything.

naturally, the water kept ur stuff from flaming up...
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:30 PM
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Alot of the binding may be due to mis-alignment of the hingepin in the holders. That's something to look at.
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:37 PM
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Originally posted by rough512
Maybe I should check my car too

Because while you guys were packing your gear and kept your car in your bags the following day, my partner and me were having fun running our cars through the wet tracks that sunday.
The CVD couplings will rust too, check those as well.
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:41 PM
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Originally posted by Neil Rabara
Alot of the binding may be due to mis-alignment of the hingepin in the holders. That's something to look at.
Bingo!! Unlike the T1 1st gen and Evo 2 no sanding of parts/clips/arms or autosoling of pins is nessesary.
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:48 PM
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i'm having a hard time getting the perfect gearing without making the belt touch my motor. is it ok if the belt (front/rear/both) touches the motor? wont this shorten the life of my belt? would it cause bind to my fk's drivetrain?
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Old 06-27-2004, 11:53 PM
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striker- try a bigger spur(128). as the motor revs the belt takes the slack on the belt side. i've used the same belt for a a year and a half. these belts are good.
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Old 06-28-2004, 12:19 AM
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GLITCHING

The problem is being solved by
A)putting plastic spacers between the carbon & ali bulkheads
B)anodising the bulk heads.

There is a decussion in the uk to get over this problem & it`s nothing to do with wrong xtals in the wrong reciever & all that baloney

these guys know what they are doing with compatability(radios & what not)
Some have resorted to either A, or B
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Old 06-28-2004, 12:27 AM
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i don't believe the anodizing of metal will reduce glitching. plastic or insulation maybe. but the key is clean wiring.
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Old 06-28-2004, 05:38 AM
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I'm running the FK with a Novak XXL receiver without glitching, and my car is assembled as per the instructions.

Rob
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