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Old 06-15-2004, 06:30 PM   #7411
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Ray,

My front belt is set the loosest position. The rear belt is one notch looser than stock setting. I think I can one more looser, but I might be pushing it. Both belts are super loose as is and do not think about sniffing a skip in stock and 19t....
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Old 06-15-2004, 06:37 PM   #7412
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Quote:
Originally posted by Da4head
I just got a Factory kit X-ray and was wondering if the battery slots should be filed down to lower the batteries. The instructions do not really encourage doing this. Any advice is appreciated.
My slots are beveled so the batts are flush with the bottom. To solve the problem with the hold downs not being in contact with the batts, I've gone to strapping tape.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:02 PM   #7413
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anybody try a 130 or 132 spur gear yet? Any difference from the 128?
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:03 PM   #7414
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Quote:
Originally posted by Joneser
anybody try a 130 or 132 spur gear yet? Any difference from the 128?
Its bigger in diameter!!!!














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Old 06-15-2004, 07:06 PM   #7415
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maybe it will give you a better chance to grab on to something as I lap you!!
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:12 PM   #7416
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Default 130 and 132

I already got the 1/10th scale bungie cord ready for you!!! hey-when do I get my free lunch!!

Actually-i dont know if you expereinced this or not, but at 128/32 the belt was sitting on the motor. The belt lifts up under the pulley-under alcceleration so the belt might not actually hit the motor, but for sure with a 130 the motor will be lower and the belt will definately not hit.
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Old 06-15-2004, 07:50 PM   #7417
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What is the preferred battery configuration that works the best for this car. For spare parts, what should a guy have on hand for breakage or fast wear.
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Old 06-15-2004, 08:48 PM   #7418
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fast wear???? this is not a tc3!!! You dont wear stuff out...you may break c hubs and steering blocks. I did strip out a rear upright once.
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Old 06-15-2004, 08:52 PM   #7419
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i have a evo2 thats about 2 years old now, the only things that have been replaced are the bearings, the ball cups are a little bit sloppy, but still better than some brand new cars that i wont mention.

get alloy hubs, you will have a hard time bending or braking them
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Old 06-15-2004, 08:55 PM   #7420
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Alloy hubs? as in Chubs? The alloy Chubs are extremely soft...if you run indoor with boards they are not the thing to buy. You wont break and get a DNF but you will get chubs that are 10 degrees

If you have a T1R or a Factory team you wont worry about ball cups...they dont use them.
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:07 PM   #7421
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one of the guys that runs at our track is a machines for a gov't contractor. He mills c-hubs out of the stiffest alum that the gov't can buy. These are indestructable. I have bent a few of the xray versions, but still have a true 6 degree after 4 months on carpet and 2x4's with his custom milled ones. He looked at xray design and made a few changes that also help.
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:14 PM   #7422
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Jonesr,

Thanks for reminding me. I am going to e-mail PRS now for a couple of 130 and 132's.....................
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:44 PM   #7423
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Quote:
Originally posted by RBLove
Jonesr,

Thanks for reminding me. I am going to e-mail PRS now for a couple of 130 and 132's.....................
UUmmmm-me-me-me!!! I'll take one of each too please!!

Thanks RB,
Ray
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Old 06-15-2004, 09:53 PM   #7424
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Joneser: tanx, but the bulkheads are way too rich for me now. good luck on the sale.
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Old 06-15-2004, 10:03 PM   #7425
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hey everyone, I just got the new xray and I have 2 questions. First, what does moving the rear inner camber link do. And are there any tips for building the shocks better. Now matter what I do, there is more air in them than oil. I also though about getting the aluminum shock bodies, will that help.
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