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Old 02-28-2004, 11:55 AM   #6271
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Man I'm so happy my LHS is now carring Xray parts,no more mail order for me..
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Old 02-28-2004, 07:19 PM   #6272
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I used the roll center bridge, but it made the car feel really squirrely on power, and there was signicantly less bite in the rear until about halfway into the race. I ended up taking it off, because it was screwing me up so bad. Can anyone elaborate on how exactly the roll center bridge should be used to tune the car?
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Old 02-28-2004, 07:39 PM   #6273
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rob Hochberg
I used the roll center bridge, but it made the car feel really squirrely on power, and there was signicantly less bite in the rear until about halfway into the race. I ended up taking it off, because it was screwing me up so bad. Can anyone elaborate on how exactly the roll center bridge should be used to tune the car?
It lengthens the upper link. This does two things:

1. Changes the roll center and the rate of change in the roll center in the corner. This will make the rear end roll deeper. This will slow the transition of the rear end in esses since it has further to recover. The rear end will have more grip mid corner as the rear end settles down and weights up.

2. You will have less camber gain as the suspension compresses. As the car rolls over this can change the camber from negative to positive, so you loose traction. To compensate you will need to run a stiffer spring to reduce roll or run more negative camber or both.

If you where squirely on power, it depends on where in the corner you applied power. If your camber is around -1.5 to -2, your rear end should actually stick harder then the front since more mass has transitioned to the outside rear corner becuase of the longer link.

You might also be saucing the tires wrong, since traction came up mid race.

Or the tires started to cone which will give more effective negative camber mid race.

If your front links are signifigantly shorter then the rears, your squirleyness might be caused by the front end transitioning much faster then the rear, and so having more traction late in the corner.

Simply stated:
Long links will roll deeper (and slower) and transition more mass.
Angled links will limit how far the roll is, more parallel = deeper, more angled = less roll

Also need to remember about camber gain too!

This is all realative from front to back. This is also how you can change the cars behavior from entry, mid to exit of the corner.

I like my car to over steer on entry, neutral to push mid, and neutral on exit (I also play with damper, toe, springs, caster, droop etc. to do this)

No simple answers unfortunatly..... but then this is why touring cars are so cool (for me anyway).
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:24 AM   #6274
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Default Re: Re: here is xray's answer on upgrade

Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
All new parts EXCEPT for the Bulkheads? WTF? I highly doubt they would sell a car then refuse to sell parts for it. So if a new Factory Kit owner bends a bulkhead, they have to buy a new Kit.

If this is the case, anyone want to buy an XRay?

If you bend the bulkheads, please contact Xray at [email protected] and I am sure you will get service and individual approach. The chance you break or bend the bulkheads is almost less than minimum. But you can be sure that Xray will provide the highest quality service for customer satisfaction. Meanwhile there is no reason dealers to stock expensive item that will not sell.
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:31 AM   #6275
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Guys. Need some help here.
Do anyone use something to protect the underside of the chassis?? Any plastic films or etc. ???

I just trash my chassis so i need a new one and wonder if there is anything i can do to make sure my chassis last longer.
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:47 AM   #6276
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Quote:
Originally posted by sands
It lengthens the upper link. This does two things:

1. Changes the roll center and the rate of change in the roll center in the corner. This will make the rear end roll deeper. This will slow the transition of the rear end in esses since it has further to recover. The rear end will have more grip mid corner as the rear end settles down and weights up.

2. You will have less camber gain as the suspension compresses. As the car rolls over this can change the camber from negative to positive, so you loose traction. To compensate you will need to run a stiffer spring to reduce roll or run more negative camber or both.

If you where squirely on power, it depends on where in the corner you applied power. If your camber is around -1.5 to -2, your rear end should actually stick harder then the front since more mass has transitioned to the outside rear corner becuase of the longer link.

You might also be saucing the tires wrong, since traction came up mid race.

Or the tires started to cone which will give more effective negative camber mid race.

If your front links are signifigantly shorter then the rears, your squirleyness might be caused by the front end transitioning much faster then the rear, and so having more traction late in the corner.

Simply stated:
Long links will roll deeper (and slower) and transition more mass.
Angled links will limit how far the roll is, more parallel = deeper, more angled = less roll

Also need to remember about camber gain too!

This is all realative from front to back. This is also how you can change the cars behavior from entry, mid to exit of the corner.

I like my car to over steer on entry, neutral to push mid, and neutral on exit (I also play with damper, toe, springs, caster, droop etc. to do this)

No simple answers unfortunatly..... but then this is why touring cars are so cool (for me anyway).
Thank you Sands, your answers are always helpful.
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Old 02-29-2004, 09:56 AM   #6277
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A New shirt for my EVO2 FOC.
What do you guys think?
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Old 02-29-2004, 11:08 AM   #6278
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kewl
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Old 02-29-2004, 11:16 AM   #6279
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Quote:
Originally posted by AdR|aN
Guys. Need some help here.
Do anyone use something to protect the underside of the chassis?? Any plastic films or etc. ???

I just trash my chassis so i need a new one and wonder if there is anything i can do to make sure my chassis last longer.
Check out this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ssis+protector

Basically, Associated makes a chassis protector, but it's expensive. The alternatives are ones for skateboards, skis, or motorcycles.

A time saving tip is to mark the screw holes and use a hole punch.
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Old 02-29-2004, 11:26 AM   #6280
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Quote:
Originally posted by Headbanger
Check out this thread: http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...ssis+protector

Basically, Associated makes a chassis protector, but it's expensive. The alternatives are ones for skateboards, skis, or motorcycles.

A time saving tip is to mark the screw holes and use a hole punch.

Yeah i heard of it before. But cant get it over at my LHS. So need to DIY myself.
Thanks
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Old 02-29-2004, 04:47 PM   #6281
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I use the Associated film and it works great. It took me about an hour to get all the holes cut. I tried to cut the holes with a holepunch before I applied it but it was to difficult to align it perfectly. So I ended applying it and cutting the holes with an exacto knife. I wouldn't run another CF chassis without the protector.
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Old 03-01-2004, 12:46 AM   #6282
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Previous link doesnt work.
Here is a look of a new shirt for my FOC
Attached Images
File Type: jpg xray.jpg (46.8 KB, 191 views)
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Old 03-01-2004, 03:52 AM   #6283
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Default x ray parts

Does anyone know if 'Stormer Hobbies' in the USA are still trading.
i have been trying unsuccessfully to contact them but get a recorded messsage advising that they are disconnected.

If they are still trading, is anyone aware of a new contact number for them, any help in this direction would be greatly appreciated.

Alternatively is anyone aware of any remote control retailers/wholesalers online that will ship goods to Australia

Any response would be appreciated
Jeff
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Old 03-01-2004, 04:28 AM   #6284
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Default Re: x ray parts

Quote:
Originally posted by jeff19
Does anyone know if 'Stormer Hobbies' in the USA are still trading.
i have been trying unsuccessfully to contact them but get a recorded messsage advising that they are disconnected.

If they are still trading, is anyone aware of a new contact number for them, any help in this direction would be greatly appreciated.

Alternatively is anyone aware of any remote control retailers/wholesalers online that will ship goods to Australia

Any response would be appreciated
Jeff
I ordered off them only last week, shipped to Sydney...

Try their ...website, its still up
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Old 03-01-2004, 04:42 AM   #6285
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TRY THERE WEB SITE I KNOW THERE WAS A BIG RACE IN BILLINGS THIS PAST WEEEK END THEY MIGHT HAVE BEEN CLOSED ON FRI SAT FOR THAT NOT SURE THOUGH BUT SOME FRIENDS ORDERED LAST WEEK FROM THEM TRY THEM AGAIN ON THE WEB LATER
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