Xray T1

Reply

Old 02-17-2004, 05:02 PM
  #6196  
Tech Regular
 
Rob Hochberg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: West Chester, PA
Posts: 457
Default

Hmm.. I'll consider the change. Does anyone think that it will be a problem that I got the additional racing springs? They're all 2 lbs lighter than the Ultimate kit, so I just pretty much run what everyone else does, just slightly softer, I'm sure it's not noticable, just different colors.
Rob Hochberg is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2004, 08:29 PM
  #6197  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: missouri
Posts: 354
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

anyone have a good setup for stock rubber for the T1
missouri racer is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2004, 08:56 PM
  #6198  
Tech Regular
 
racingcivic's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: memphis
Posts: 117
Default

would someone please tell the part number for the short arms or refer me to a page that has them.
thank you
andy
racingcivic is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2004, 08:59 PM
  #6199  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Carlinville IL
Posts: 670
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

short arm part #
front #302159
rear #303159
dway100 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2004, 10:30 PM
  #6200  
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,116
Default

TQ Hobbies
Friday Night Racing Series
Race Dates
Friday nights Feb 20,27 March 5,12,19 April 2,9,16
Come join TQ Hobbies and their staff for a really cool Friday night series that is rewarding and fun. The series will be 8 races in total. The prizes for participation are awesome. Call TQ Hobbies for any questions about details not listed below.

Expert Stock (entry fee $15)
1st place Xray T1R Car kit
2nd place Millennium Pro Charger
3rd place Racing batteries

Stock (entry fee $15)
1st place Xray T1R Car kit
2nd place Millennium Pro Charger
3rd place Racing batteries

Sportsman stock (entry fee $15)
1st place Xray T1R Car kit
2nd place Pitbull Pro Charger
3rd place Racing batteries

Mini Cooper (entry fee $10)
1st place Mini Cooper
2nd place Battery pack
3rd place Racing stock motor of choice

All entries will receive a raffle ticket for free (We are not selling raffle tickets). This race is about participation, so the more you race, the more raffle tickets you will receive. The raffle will have motors, batteries, touring bodies and more. Go to TQ hobbies and ask to see the prize display.

All racers will be placed in class according to their lap times and skill (no sandbagging). There will be tech so all 190mm touring cars will weigh 53oz and the wing cannot be higher than the roof line. To be eligible for the final prizes you will need to attend and race 6 races minimum. All motors will be roar legal stock motors (bring your own motor). Rainouts will be rescheduled. All decisions by race director will be final.

TQ hobbies 541 East state rd 434 Longwood FL (407)-339-1899
(Open hours Tues-Sat 12pm-9pm)
rangulo is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 07:49 PM
  #6201  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
 
Blue Sky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default Ball diff

Hi guys,

I have a problem with my diff and wonder if anyone of you can shed some light.

I have a T1R for about a year now and the ball diff were great. I rebuilt them when needed. Recently, I was just tightening it a bit at the track since it was slipping a bit. Prior to the adjustment it was re-built and was very smooth. Then after adjustment (maybe 1/4 turn) everything went tight. And it was slipping way more then before adjustment. Diff action became very tight and I was no long able to rotate one wheel with one finger. To get it not to slip I have to tighten it ALOT...almost to the point of a solid rear axle.

Can anyone shed some light as to what need to be done? I'm using Team Associate's carbide balls. And I also rebuilt the thrust bearing too.

Thanks.
Ron
Blue Sky is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 07:56 PM
  #6202  
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Montreal, Canada
Posts: 45
Default Re: Ball diff

Originally posted by Blue Sky
Hi guys,

I have a problem with my diff and wonder if anyone of you can shed some light.

I have a T1R for about a year now and the ball diff were great. I rebuilt them when needed. Recently, I was just tightening it a bit at the track since it was slipping a bit. Prior to the adjustment it was re-built and was very smooth. Then after adjustment (maybe 1/4 turn) everything went tight. And it was slipping way more then before adjustment. Diff action became very tight and I was no long able to rotate one wheel with one finger. To get it not to slip I have to tighten it ALOT...almost to the point of a solid rear axle.

Can anyone shed some light as to what need to be done? I'm using Team Associate's carbide balls. And I also rebuilt the thrust bearing too.

Thanks.
Ron
Ron,

Sounds like the circlip popped out of it's groove. Same thing happened to me the first time I re-built the diffs. Check it out.

Later, Phil Matthews #99
pilmat is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 10:02 PM
  #6203  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (4)
 
Blue Sky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bothell, WA
Posts: 683
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

That might be it! First time I removed the circlip and didn't have the right tool and distorted it. And I noticed that not all the clip was sitting in the groove. Never thought about it. I'll get some new clips and use a snap ring plier in a couple of days. Thanks Phil.

Ron
Blue Sky is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 10:13 PM
  #6204  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
JusBox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central VA
Posts: 2,170
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally posted by Blue Sky
That might be it! First time I removed the circlip and didn't have the right tool and distorted it. And I noticed that not all the clip was sitting in the groove. Never thought about it. I'll get some new clips and use a snap ring plier in a couple of days. Thanks Phil.

Ron
Snap ring pliers might be too big, the set i bought when i had my xray were. a thin, sharp tool like a dental pick might work better.
JusBox is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 10:14 PM
  #6205  
Tech Apprentice
 
Shayd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 95
Default Raycer vs Factory Team

Hey folks,

I'm in the process of looking at getting a new ride and the xray is looking sweet.

sooo...

If you were to buy one now, would you go for the raycer and get the hop ups needed, or is it better to bite the bullet and get the Factory Team that is coming out soon.

I have been reading and it seems there is agreement on the 1.77 pully set upgrade for sure.

What would I need to purchase in addition to get the raycer up to speed?

What about the factory team?

BTW, I race mainly at SoCal and RC Heat for parking lot races where SoCal is high traction smooth, and RC Heat is medium/high traction and smooth as well.

How would you compare the Xray to the Barracuda? Both seem to be tough with great performance, but Xray parts are available at SoCal Pro Shop.


Thanks for the input,

Scott
Shayd is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 10:21 PM
  #6206  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
JusBox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Central VA
Posts: 2,170
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default Re: Raycer vs Factory Team

Originally posted by Shayd
Hey folks,

I'm in the process of looking at getting a new ride and the xray is looking sweet.

sooo...

If you were to buy one now, would you go for the raycer and get the hop ups needed, or is it better to bite the bullet and get the Factory Team that is coming out soon.

I have been reading and it seems there is agreement on the 1.77 pully set upgrade for sure.

What would I need to purchase in addition to get the raycer up to speed?

What about the factory team?

BTW, I race mainly at SoCal and RC Heat for parking lot races where SoCal is high traction smooth, and RC Heat is medium/high traction and smooth as well.

How would you compare the Xray to the Barracuda? Both seem to be tough with great performance, but Xray parts are available at SoCal Pro Shop.


Thanks for the input,

Scott
I'd get the factory if you can afford it. To upgrade the raycer to factory specs would cost much more than buying the factory kit. I had a T1 and now have cuda. I like them both but i prefer the cuda cause it's prettier.
JusBox is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2004, 11:52 PM
  #6207  
Tech Elite
 
Neil Rabara's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Lone Star
Posts: 4,821
Default Re: Raycer vs Factory Team

Originally posted by Shayd
If you were to buy one now, would you go for the raycer and get the hop ups needed, or is it better to bite the bullet and get the Factory Team that is coming out soon.
If you can afford the Factory kit, get it. If not, the Raycer will do just fine. You will find that the Factory kit will probably do better indoors than at the outdoor track. Socal does have high traction and a stiffer car will work better. Come and find me at Socal if you have questions about the Xray car. Oh BTW, the Factory kit won't be available to the general public for about 6-8 weeks.
Neil Rabara is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2004, 12:35 AM
  #6208  
Tech Regular
 
Matt04's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Sydney
Posts: 300
Default

why doesnt the Evo FT come with Alu shock bodies?

why wouldnt the team drivers want them?
Matt04 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2004, 01:49 PM
  #6209  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Pucho - On carpet do you usually setup the rear end for 3* or 0* anti-squat? If set for 0* which holes do you use upper or lower?
alien too is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2004, 02:00 PM
  #6210  
Tech Elite
 
Neil Rabara's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Lone Star
Posts: 4,821
Default

Originally posted by Matt04
why doesnt the Evo FT come with Alu shock bodies?

why wouldnt the team drivers want them?
The plastic shock bodies works the same as the aluminum ones, and the plastic is lighter. As for us not running the aluminum bodies, I've discovered that it isn't really needed unless you want flare. Also try asking Josh Cyrul on his thread.
Neil Rabara is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service