Schumie

same with me . . . . .

MartinSorlie

It was corrupt here too...


The Xray Factory kit will include the new front Bulkheads, the short arms, stiffer chassis and top-plate and some other snaxy parts... Basically all options used over the past year.

The owner of Xray is Juraj Hudy, not all that hard to spell really....

KMW

iTrader: (11)

For those that missed them, there are photos of Burch's car under the Snowbirds coverage showing what is essentially a Factory Kit. One exception is the new "carpet" chassis he's running which I don't think will be included.

scmicromike

iTrader: (3)

sorry all I dont know why it is doing that. wierd. does anyone know how to shrink the bites of a Pic? oh well I am sorry about that. but believe me it does look good.

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

I can host them for you, just email them to me.

[email protected]

scmicromike

iTrader: (3)

AWOL- I sent it hopefully you get it. thanks

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

Alex Lopez's xray

psbarger

iTrader: (3)

I've got a serious problem guys, I keep breaking steering blocks literally every run. Yeah, my driving needs work, but I'm not that bad. I can just TOUCH a wall and they're gone. Today while racing I didn't complete a single heat, and counting practice last wednesday I've gone through 7 composite blocks! I bought a BRP TC3 wide bumper and put that on to try and give a little more protection, and am running a brand new body in hopes that that stuff might help absorb at least some of the impact, but it didn't help at all. One of the guys who I race with was even a team driver for XRay (Drew Ellis) and in all his time with the team he never saw ONE break.

I'm probably gonna give some aluminum ones a shot, does anyone know anywhere that has them in stock? Ashford doesn't carry them anymore, and Stormer is out. Honestly, if the aluminum ones don't fix the problem my car might be for sale soon. I like it a ton, but when I can't even make it half way through a qualifier before someone gives me a tiny tap and it breaks....

Kennedy

There is a tool for it

http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...2&kategoria=65

sands

I tried something a bit funky on my xray this weekend that smoothed out a handling problem I was having.

On corner entry (transition to power off) I'd get an inconsistent oversteer. My car was *very* sensitive to smooth driving and small changes in droop. The car would behave differently in the 1st part of the race to the second. I use very little traction sauce so it wan't that burning off. I also run 1/12th and can run a respectable, clean 8 minute race - though not with the good guys - so I know how to drive smooth.

Any rate - I made 2 changes to my car that made it much smoother on corner entry.

1st - shifted one set of cells (left side of the saddle pack) one slot forward to move more mass up to the front. This reduces the amount of weight transfer to the front tires on corner entry.

2nd - a little drill press and grinding work to allow for a "kick-down" on the front lower arm. Essentially I drilled a hole to move the rear suspension holder on the front bulkheads up a bit. So the front bulkheads look like the rear where you have two holes for front and two for rear holders. I changed caster blocks to 6* so I have an effective 3* caster. The steering belcrank needed a little work as well to make it clear the suspension holder.

What this does is make the suspension want to extend under power off and want to compress on power on. This reduces the mass transfer on corner entry and on corner exit. Saw some Losi guys doing this for this reason. (a pushy car on exit doesn't bother me a bit. I try to apex late anyway so I don't make lots of steering inputs late in the corner.)

I did both at the same time and didn't try it with only one at a time - so I can't tell you which one did more. perhaps next weekend I'll move the battery back to see.

My car was much smoother on entry, which allowed more mid corner speed and exit speed. It had a very slight push - so I sauced the full front rather than 1/2 front. I also drove more aggresively. Grabbed it by the scruff and tossed it around more.

Once the car took a set in the corner, it dug in very hard and could carry lots of speed and still rotate fast and smoothly. never came close to traction rolling enven though I was pushing the carpet around and making it bunch up a bit.

My other suspension setting are pretty standard for long arms, though I do run the hardest front springs (38lbs?) and then 28lbs on the rear. 60 wt front oil, all closed and 50 wt. 2 closed rear. Longest wheel base and 2* rear toe, 0-1* front toe out.

My personal best before this was an inconsistent 25-5.04, today I ran a 27-5.03 (not sure about the time) for 2nd in the main.

Best race I've seen at our track to date. 3 of us on the lead lap and the slowest not less than 24 or 25 laps ( I think...)

Would of had 28 laps but I was stupid and allowed myself to get close to a back marker - making an inside pass and he chopped me into a pipe, cost me a 5 second marshall. ( the next lap, I came up behind him again. He crashed in front of me, I passed him then he jumped a pipe to get back in front of me he blew a corner wide after a bit and I finally got passed the kid on the inside )

picco007

iTrader: (99)

Hey guys sorry to get off the subject, but does anyone know where I can get a bearing set for my car? Let me know where I can get a good deal.

Thanks

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

Um, xray has a set, acer makes a set, rc4less.com has a set, you can get them on ebay... are you this new to rc that you don't know who makes bearings???

picco007

iTrader: (99)

No, i'm not new to RC. I'm just asking because I have always bought bearings small amounts at a time. And now I want to buy a full set and I'm trying to get some input to see if there are any more places that carry the sets at a good price. I have checked acer, and I checked the hudy site but I could not find them. Stormer is out of stock. I'll have to check rc4less. Thanks for your help.

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

www.acerracing.com

They have Evo 2 bearing kits in ceramic, polymide, teflon and the other types as well. You'll have to check the xray site, not hudy and rc4less only has the ceramics for around 110. I think Acer would be your best bet for a nice set around 50 dollars.

theisgroup

iTrader: (10)

Just started having this problem.

Running on Carpet, fairly high trackion. My car is tending to tracktion roll only in one turn. It is a haripin. When I run no track compound, the car tends to drift in the corners. I have tried full on rear,inside/outside half on rears with half inside/outside on fronts with little success.

Setup is basically Alex's US Indoor setup. Only things different is droop is 1mm up travel and swaybar is at 90degree and links are in stock position and not on the bulkheads. Also, tires are trued to 56mm. I did try to go down in sping and it helped a little, but still had problems. It seams to lift the 2 inside wheel mid corner when I was getting back on trottle.

Here is the Alex's setup incase you don't have it:
Chassis:
Brand and type: Xray T1 Evo2
Track conditions:
Track (if not listed): Cleveland Hotel
Air temperature: 70 Deg
Track temperature: 70Deg
Traction: High
Track surface: Carpet
Race condition:
Results:
Qualifying result:
Qualifying position: 2nd
Best laptime: 11.6
Final result:
Final position: 1st
Best laptime: 11.9
Suspension geometry Front:
Type of suspension: C-Hub
Downstops: 2
Camber Left: 2.0
Camber Right: 2.0
Ride height mm: 4.0
Upper link location on shock tower: on bulkhed
Track-width: fixed
Toe-in: 0
Caster setting (mm in front): 6 degrees
Steering block type: plastic medium
Anti-dive (0 or 3 degr.): 0
Upper arm holder front:
Upper arm holder rear:
Ackermann position: inner hole
Steering block mounting position: outer hole
Caster: 6 degrees
Caster Block Type: medium
Front Arm Type: long arms
Suspension geometry Rear:
Type of suspension: C-hub
Downstops: 4
Camber Left: 2.0
Camber Right: 2.0
Ride height mm: 4.0
Toe-in: 1.0
Track-width: fixed
Anti-squat (0 or 3 degr.): o
Upper arm position in upright: inside hole
Roll Center Position: 2 outside
Rear Arm Type: long arms
Wheelbase settings:
Wheelbase length:
Clips used in front of arm: 4mm/3mm
Length of the adjustable ball in the bulkhead:
Shockabsorbers Front:
Springs: Purple
Spring length:
Spring pre-load:
Oil: 30
Holes: 2
Upper shock position: 3
Lower shock position: outer
Shock body : plastic
Shockabsorbers Rear:
Springs: purple
Spring length:
Spring pre-load:
Oil: 30
Holes: 2
Upper shock position: 5 outer
Lower shock position: middle
Shock body: plastic
Anti-roll bar front:
Position:
Anti-roll bar rear:
Thickness: blade-
Position: 60 degree
Balancing of Chassis:
Position of batteries (F-C-R): stock
Additional weights left front:
Additional weights left rear:
Additional weights right front:
Additional weights right rear:
Additional weights center:
Transponder placement: bumper front
Tires Front:
Make: trc
Compound: plaides
Insert:
Diameter: 2.25
Width: 28mm
Traction compound: paragon
Tires rear:
Make: trc
Compound: purple
Insert:
Diameter: 2.25
Width: 28mm
Traction compound: paragon
Transmission:
One-way pulley: fixed
Pinion: 31
Spur gear: 128
Final drive ratio: 7.31
Roll-out (mm): 96
Front axle:
Type: diff
Diff. setting: tight
Rear axle:
Type: diff
Diff. setting: semi-tight
Aerodynamics:
Body: protoform stratus 2.0
Wing: stock
Electrics:
Battery: Trinity
Battery capacity (mAh): 3300's
Electric motor brand: h/o
Armature: 27 turn
Winds:
Strands:
+ Spring: purple
- Spring: purple
Brush face: full
Brush compound: trinity 4505
Speed controller: KO vfs 2000
Limiter (A):
Drive frequency (Hz):
Initial Brake (%):
Drag brake (on/off):