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Old 12-10-2003, 08:44 PM   #5356
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Default 1.77 gear ratio

hey guys i was wondering if the 1.77 gear ratio helps the low end take off or more for mid to top end speed thanks
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Old 12-10-2003, 10:45 PM   #5357
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thanks for the tips on building the shocks...they came out perfect now!
just wanna let you guys know that i have a brand new 200mm hpi 350z body fpr sale. holes drilled for the xray. if you wanna see pics.... http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...threadid=29189 thanks.
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Old 12-10-2003, 11:00 PM   #5358
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A trick I do with shocks is to "wet" the shaft,piston,and inside of the shock with fluid before I assemble the. By doing this it reduces the ability of air to "stick" to the dry surfaces. Try this experiment. Take a clear glass of water and lower your hand into it and watch the air stick to your skin. Now take it out and lower your now wet hand back into the water and there will be almost no air bubbles sticking to it.
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Old 12-11-2003, 10:45 AM   #5359
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Default Re: 1.77 gear ratio

Quote:
Originally posted by J FAST
hey guys i was wondering if the 1.77 gear ratio helps the low end take off or more for mid to top end speed thanks
With the 1.77 pully set you get better aceleration, however the top end is not affected.
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:10 PM   #5360
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Default Re: Re: building shocks

Quote:
Originally posted by pucho
-Make sure to have patience (you will need it )
-You need to make sure you trim any flashing off the blader.
-fill the shock to the top.
-pump the shaft a few times and add more oil if needed.
-when all the air has escaped, place the blader carefully on the shock.
-place the plastick uppre mount.
-place the allumimuncollar, but don't tighten all the way. If you can't get it to tread correctly go CCW first and you will feel it snap into place then to CW
-make sure you line up the notch on he upper mount with the notch on the collar.
-tighten fully.
-make sure that the shaft is fully extended while doing all of this.
-your shocks should be perfect now.


Good Luck
How much rebound, if any, should the shocks have after building them this way?
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Old 12-11-2003, 12:14 PM   #5361
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Aprox. 1/8" to 1/4" of rebound, how much is not as inportant as making sure they are all the same. (or close to it anyways.)
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Old 12-11-2003, 06:53 PM   #5362
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Question: I've got a T1R, whats the best gearing for a 11T KR motor with the stock spur? Second, whats the internal gear ratio?

Thanks guys.
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Old 12-11-2003, 07:02 PM   #5363
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the stock internal is 2.125
if you have the low ratio pulleys it's 1.77
the stock spur is a 93
unfortuntely I don't know much about mods where I can help you with the gearing but if you ask around your local track they should be able to clue you into a food FD fro that motor.
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Old 12-12-2003, 03:01 AM   #5364
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Thanks Pucho.

Quote:
Originally posted by pucho
the stock internal is 2.125
if you have the low ratio pulleys it's 1.77
the stock spur is a 93
unfortuntely I don't know much about mods where I can help you with the gearing but if you ask around your local track they should be able to clue you into a food FD fro that motor.
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Old 12-12-2003, 07:14 AM   #5365
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Quote:
Originally posted by paulc
Question: I've got a T1R, whats the best gearing for a 11T KR motor with the stock spur? Second, whats the internal gear ratio
Paul we normally run the Kimbrough 128t 64p spur with the 1.77 pulleys because you need the large spur to get the motor low enough so the front belt doesn't drag on the motor can. Depending on your track and surface you should probably shoot for a 8.0 FDR with rubber tires.
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Old 12-12-2003, 03:13 PM   #5366
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Default camber link mod

hey guys i was wondering if any of you are doing the front camber link mod so you can mount it on the bulkhead or if anyone has a link to a picture of it. thanks jesse
xray rules
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Old 12-13-2003, 03:49 PM   #5367
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Problem with that is that you really don't have much space to put the link on the bulkhead. You would have to cut and drill right over the bering support. The advantage is really not that much greater to go hacking up your bulkheads.
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Old 12-13-2003, 10:40 PM   #5368
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Hi Guys,

I'm looking for some feedback and I hope you guys can help me. we are currently introducing our own line of titanium hex screws and I was wondering if the X-ray guys would be interested in a screw kit:

For the X-Ray T1 Raycer: Total of 79 titanium screws for $42.99 (this is less the 4x8 button head wheel and 3x5mm spur gear screws which are sizes we aren't able to get)

For the X-Racy EVO2: Total of 60 Titanium Screws for $35.99
(this is less the 4x8 button head wheel and 3x5mm spur gear screws which are sizes we aren't able to get)

Also, I need to know if there are more screws for the Freedom of Choice edition cars (I apologize, I'm not familiar with X-ray cars) if anyone can provide a screw count for me to double check my count (which is from the instruction manual) I would greatly appreciate it

Let me know if you guys are interested.

Thank you very much

Steve Wang
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Old 12-13-2003, 11:39 PM   #5369
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EVOII is the FOC car. It's called this because it comes with the PB and C-hub suspencion.

Ti screws are cool!
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Old 12-14-2003, 12:23 AM   #5370
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Pucho,

Thanks for your input. I didn't see the C-hub assembly instruction in the manual I got (probably didn't get the most recent one) Can you tell me what extra screws (size and length) are used in the C-hub style fron suspension?

Thank you

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