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Old 12-09-2003, 05:58 PM   #5341
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If your radio had end point adjustments for the steering, those would be better to use than your dual rate because it could be different for each side. I think the end point adjustments are also called ATV (adjustable travel volume) adjustments.

I broke a front suspension arm this weekend along with a composite c-hub while running through a high speed chicane. I never thought I would hear a suspension arm break, but thats what told me I was broken. Aside from the wheel dissapearing into the body .
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Old 12-09-2003, 06:33 PM   #5342
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Yah I figured that's what the problem was... i'll adjust my radio a bit more. It's a Mars R so it has just about every adjustment you need.
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Old 12-09-2003, 07:38 PM   #5343
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Quote:
Originally posted by pucho

Sands: Are you running Foams? For what I understand the one way gives you way to much stering with foams. with rubbers it's OK.
I'm on foams.

It's a bit pushy on corner exit - I may go to 6* caster next race and see what happens.

60wt oil all around
Front
Red springs
Middle bottom camber link hole
2 clicks on the shocks
Alum c hubs, 3* caster
~1.25 camber - for tire wear
1.2 mm droop
Middle front shock hole
4.5 mm ride height
60* on the blade anti-roll bar
No kick up
Org/purps
0* toe

Rear
Inside bottom camber link - roll center bridge
Loose rear diff
violet to light violet springs
#3 rear shock hole
1-2 clicks (can't remember) on the shock
4.5 mm ride height
1.7 mm droop
Botton set of roll center mounts on the rear a-arm bulkhead mounts
1* rear toe
1.75* camber - for tire wear
Alum c hub
no roll bar
purples
2mm longer wheel base then standard (can't remember actual length though)


On droop - I use this method; works very well and compensates for tire wear.

1. settle the chassis at race trim on a flat board.
2. measure and adjust ride height
3. hold down the wheels with your thumb and pinky
4. lift the chassis with your index finger on the shock tower
5. measure the ride height

The difference between the settled ride height and the raised ride height is your droop.

This is a *very* sensitive setting, 1/8 turn will change it by 1/2 mm - that is a LOT of droop change!

I can't emphasis how important droop is. It is the main change on foams for the Xray for a well setup car to one that is not.

I'm by no means an expert at this though.

Last edited by sands; 12-09-2003 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 12-09-2003, 09:37 PM   #5344
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When we get our track up Ill have to have one of the guys try the one way. I have used that method of droop measurement before, I'm not sure why I didn't try it this time. we just used the block. Also we had 4 sets of tires all cut to the same size so tire wear wasn't an issue.
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Old 12-10-2003, 11:12 AM   #5345
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Default Foam Front tower?

What is the trick to installing the foam front tower? I was told to cut down the bottom shock end. Is there a set amount that I should cut?
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Old 12-10-2003, 11:59 AM   #5346
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Default Re: Foam Front tower?

Quote:
Originally posted by dr_hfuhuhurr
What is the trick to installing the foam front tower? I was told to cut down the bottom shock end. Is there a set amount that I should cut?
Hey there,

I am quite certain you dont need to modify anything to run the foam shock tower to run C-hub and foam tires, but if you plan on trying the PB front end-watch-out!!! YOur gonna be doing some modifying!!!

Ray
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Old 12-10-2003, 12:01 PM   #5347
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Default building shocks

whats the best way to build the xray FOC shocks??? im having a hard time. in the instructions it says that shocks shaft shouldnt come out by itself when compressed.... mine always do. any tips or advice?
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Old 12-10-2003, 12:22 PM   #5348
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Are the alum. c hubs worth the money(the comlpete set)or should I just stick to the composite set(I allready have it).I have not raced my Xray..yet,I have been busy racing a few of my other TC's and have not gotten around to racing my Xray's.I have ran a few pracitce packs with it and came to the conclusion that I was almost 1 lap faster with it than I was with my shaft cars(3).So next year it's all about the XRAY.The other thing I really like about the xray's is the ease of adjustabilty,most TC's are adjustable but some your going to be their for awhile,just to make a simple adjustment.
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Old 12-10-2003, 12:29 PM   #5349
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I have a springsteel front hex hub,xra305215, which is shorter than original hex hub, and it won't fit in the steering knuckle. But X-ray say it is a direct replacement of the original.Anybody can tell me why?
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Old 12-10-2003, 12:30 PM   #5350
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
Are the alum. c hubs worth the money(the comlpete set)or should I just stick to the composite set(I allready have it).I have not raced my Xray..yet,I have been busy racing a few of my other TC's and have not gotten around to racing my Xray's.I have ran a few pracitce packs with it and came to the conclusion that I was almost 1 lap faster with it than I was with my shaft cars(3).So next year it's all about the XRAY.The other thing I really like about the xray's is the ease of adjustabilty,most TC's are adjustable but some your going to be their for awhile,just to make a simple adjustment.
Yah I love my Xray, I just threw a few upgrade parts at my T1 and it's an excellent car. I'd go for the composite c hubs over the aluminum just for the weight saving. If you're worried about breaking, how about just put c-hubs in the rear and use the pillow ball up front?
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Old 12-10-2003, 12:36 PM   #5351
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Quote:
Originally posted by caveman
I have a springsteel front hex hub,xra305215, which is shorter than original hex hub, and it won't fit in the steering knuckle. But X-ray say it is a direct replacement of the original.Anybody can tell me why?
With the release of the EV02, (or maybe the second generation EV02), X-ray made a change to the front of the car. Now the front and rear hubs, as well as the front and rear drive shafts, are all the same length. To accomplish this, they had to re-design the front hub carriers to be longer/thicker, as the rear hubs are longer than the old front ones.

Without looking it up to be sure, the part you have is probably for the front (as well as the rear), but you have to have the newer style front hub carrier as well as new front driveshafts in order to make it work properly. I'd guess you might still have to older style front hub carriers....just a guess.
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Old 12-10-2003, 03:36 PM   #5352
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Quote:
Originally posted by caveman
I have a springsteel front hex hub,xra305215, which is shorter than original hex hub, and it won't fit in the steering knuckle. But X-ray say it is a direct replacement of the original.Anybody can tell me why?
When you have C-hubs you must order rear hex hubs as well as universals for the car. The front hex hubs and front universals will only work on pivot ball suspensions. Hate to say it, but you have the wrong part, you need to order the rear springsteel hex hubs for the front of the car as well.
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Old 12-10-2003, 04:22 PM   #5353
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Quote:
Originally posted by PorscheSuperCup
When you have C-hubs you must order rear hex hubs as well as universals for the car. The front hex hubs and front universals will only work on pivot ball suspensions. Hate to say it, but you have the wrong part, you need to order the rear springsteel hex hubs for the front of the car as well.
The chub conversion kit comes with new front universals and hubs for those that are confused. But yes, if you want the spring steel hubs all around, order four rear hubs, part number 305315
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Old 12-10-2003, 06:19 PM   #5354
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Default Re: building shocks

Quote:
Originally posted by 2qwik
whats the best way to build the xray FOC shocks??? im having a hard time. in the instructions it says that shocks shaft shouldnt come out by itself when compressed.... mine always do. any tips or advice?
Page 175 for some instructions:

1. Fill them all the way
2. Compress the shaft about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way.
3. Put the little bladder on and squeeze out air bubles. Hold the shock at a 45* angle to do this. Put the lower side of the bladder in first then roll it on towards the upper end (with the shock tilted). This will squeeze out any air that is trapped.
4. Extend the shaft all the way and put the cap on. This will suck the bladder down so it won't pop off.

I also found some translucent bladders that you can see the air bubles under. i think they are yoks or something. Not really sure.

I get no air and the action is very smooth with only a little shaft extension when it is compressed fully.

If you want a really smooooth action, use Associated's green slime on the o-rings and polish the shafts with some very fine automotive buffing compound and a soft cloth. chuck the shaft in a dremel and spin it in a small glob of the coupound in a towel.
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Old 12-10-2003, 06:28 PM   #5355
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Default Re: building shocks

Quote:
Originally posted by 2qwik
whats the best way to build the xray FOC shocks??? im having a hard time. in the instructions it says that shocks shaft shouldnt come out by itself when compressed.... mine always do. any tips or advice?
-Make sure to have patience (you will need it )
-You need to make sure you trim any flashing off the blader.
-fill the shock to the top.
-pump the shaft a few times and add more oil if needed.
-when all the air has escaped, place the blader carefully on the shock.
-place the plastick uppre mount.
-place the allumimuncollar, but don't tighten all the way. If you can't get it to tread correctly go CCW first and you will feel it snap into place then to CW
-make sure you line up the notch on he upper mount with the notch on the collar.
-tighten fully.
-make sure that the shaft is fully extended while doing all of this.
-your shocks should be perfect now.


Good Luck
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