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Old 07-15-2003, 11:34 AM   #4066
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Try a left handed drillbit, when it bites in and begins to cut the screw will usually start to loosen........
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Old 07-15-2003, 01:00 PM   #4067
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I had the same problem on the bottom of the chassis when I switched to the new low ratio gears. I went to Sears and got a small screw extractor bit for my cordless drill. Works great, the only thing is that it ruins the old screw so you will need to have new ones to replace them with.
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Old 07-15-2003, 02:16 PM   #4068
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Hi,
If you have your car suspension set up too soft, can it oversteer?
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Old 07-15-2003, 08:48 PM   #4069
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New EVO2 to arrive tomorrow.............


As for oversteer. Could be too soft, but "I think" many factors come into play. A short front camber link seems to give better off power steering and a longer camber link seems to oversteer, but push a little going in.... Shock location is another. Dmapening, etc..... Make one change at a time until it feels good. That is the best advice I can give to any driver and any car.
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Old 07-15-2003, 08:48 PM   #4070
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Scrad: Go buy the XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide right now if you are serious about handling. That book has been my bible.

What you are talking about is an off power push situation. An off power push is usually caused by not enough weight getting transfered to the front. It can also be caused by not letting off the throttle enough. Anyway, assuming your driving is perfect and the chassis needs adjusting, here are the things you can try:
1) slightly softer spring in the front
2) more uptravel in the rear (this will let the rear end lift up more when you let off the throttle)
3) lower ride height in the front
4) higher ride height in the back
5) less caster (use caution because this will take away on power steering)

Another option is a one-way. I run a one-way diff in my XRay and my NTC3. Once you get used to driving smooth and not relying on the brakes, the one-way diff is something you will not want to live without. If you do not have a one-way diff, you could try loosening the one-way pulley. Loosening the one-way pulley will give you more off power steering without affecting on power steering. You can try loosening it just a little bit at a time until car turns in better in those 180 degree turns.
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Old 07-15-2003, 10:00 PM   #4071
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shiloh
Scrad: Go buy the XXX Main Chassis Setup Guide right now if you are serious about handling. That book has been my bible.

What you are talking about is an off power push situation. An off power push is usually caused by not enough weight getting transfered to the front. It can also be caused by not letting off the throttle enough. Anyway, assuming your driving is perfect and the chassis needs adjusting, here are the things you can try:
1) slightly softer spring in the front
2) more uptravel in the rear (this will let the rear end lift up more when you let off the throttle)
3) lower ride height in the front
4) higher ride height in the back
5) less caster (use caution because this will take away on power steering)

Another option is a one-way. I run a one-way diff in my XRay and my NTC3. Once you get used to driving smooth and not relying on the brakes, the one-way diff is something you will not want to live without. If you do not have a one-way diff, you could try loosening the one-way pulley. Loosening the one-way pulley will give you more off power steering without affecting on power steering. You can try loosening it just a little bit at a time until car turns in better in those 180 degree turns.
These are great things to try. That's what practice is for. One thing that worked for me was to set the front droop so that when the car is at ride height in the front, it is at the droop setting. I'm trying to get use to this setup because it gives alot of direct steering. You can then adjust the rear droop for weight transfer.
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Old 07-16-2003, 08:39 AM   #4072
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RCInfinity: What you are doing with the front droop screws will give you a lot of on power steering. I like a car that has so much steering that it feels a little loose. I usually run 1.5mm of uptravel in the front and 2mm of uptravel in the rear, and then adjust it during practice. I've never had good luck with it at 0mm uptravel in the front unless I ran the rear spring softer than the front spring. I have best luck on the track when I run the same spring front and rear, and then use other settings to finish dialing in the car. When I run a front diff, I have the front uptravel somewhere between 0.5mm and 1.5mm. When I run a front one-way, the uptravel usually ends up somewhere between 1mm and 2mm.
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:21 PM   #4073
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Old 07-16-2003, 07:29 PM   #4074
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Quote:
Originally posted by Shiloh
RCInfinity: What you are doing with the front droop screws will give you a lot of on power steering. I like a car that has so much steering that it feels a little loose. I usually run 1.5mm of uptravel in the front and 2mm of uptravel in the rear, and then adjust it during practice. I've never had good luck with it at 0mm uptravel in the front unless I ran the rear spring softer than the front spring. I have best luck on the track when I run the same spring front and rear, and then use other settings to finish dialing in the car. When I run a front diff, I have the front uptravel somewhere between 0.5mm and 1.5mm. When I run a front one-way, the uptravel usually ends up somewhere between 1mm and 2mm.
That sounds like it will work also. Every track has a different setup.
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Old 07-17-2003, 03:29 PM   #4075
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Hey guys, I am getting back into the game, and going to get an EVO2(FOC). I have a T1 currently that was extremely reliable. Two seasons of racing and only one broken part. Anyhow, I need to know what options prove to be valuble tuning aids, so that I can have these in the box. I have most all of the options from the original like front one-way, roll bridge, eccentric upper carriers. I am speaking of like the composite chassis, solid center shaft, low ratio gears, upper deck treatments, solid front axle, etc. Help a brotha out with some info. If you could mention what one option feels like compared to non option, it would be appreciated.

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Old 07-17-2003, 09:10 PM   #4076
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I thought the spring steel front(22mm)hubs were a good up grade,alot stronger than the stock ones.On the C hubs you might want to get some spares.The 1.77 pulleys are also a good up grade,they seem to make the car come out of the corners alot better,as far as top end speed goes I would not know that one..the track I race on is very tight with short straights.I also thought the different top braces were a good tunning part.I would also get the spring kit,But remember the "old" T1 can be up graded.All the parts from the evo2 will bolt right on.
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Old 07-18-2003, 02:08 PM   #4077
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I agree, that is a good place to start. But if you are coming back in, maybe a lot of driving time would be most beneficial.
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Old 07-18-2003, 05:56 PM   #4078
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I hear the practice time thing, and I wdefinetly will be doing that, but I like to have tuning options available to me. I just want to know what all of the available options will do for me. I started out as the first one at Socal with the Xray, so I had to learn everything by myself. Now I see they have a whole wall full of stuff for the Xray. I just want to exercise all of my options, and hear from those who have been driving the Evo for a while.
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Old 07-19-2003, 04:19 PM   #4079
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hello
I`m thinking of trying some different battery positions, but i dont have time to test so much, so i just ask you guys here on the forum.
1. I was thinking of moving the batteries 1 step forward, has anyone tried this?

2. for simplicity i want to try 6cells on one side, just courious how much difference it makes on the handling, and it makes taking the battery easier.

Also have a setup question, i have a problem, i have no on power steering on my current setup, i`m driving the STD setup, apart from the springs, light blue in the rear and dark blue in the front, 2 holes open in the front, 3 in the rear. pivotball susp.


I was thinking of changing to light blue springs in the front.. or does anyone have any other suggestions?
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Old 07-19-2003, 07:59 PM   #4080
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hatebreed
hello
I`m thinking of trying some different battery positions, but i dont have time to test so much, so i just ask you guys here on the forum.
1. I was thinking of moving the batteries 1 step forward, has anyone tried this?

2. for simplicity i want to try 6cells on one side, just courious how much difference it makes on the handling, and it makes taking the battery easier.

Also have a setup question, i have a problem, i have no on power steering on my current setup, i`m driving the STD setup, apart from the springs, light blue in the rear and dark blue in the front, 2 holes open in the front, 3 in the rear. pivotball susp.


I was thinking of changing to light blue springs in the front.. or does anyone have any other suggestions?
Some guys have tried moving the batts one step forward from stock position, but problems arise from other electronics and positioning. It will give you more steering as more weight is forward.

I've tried the six cells down one side setup. It is convenient if you don't want to break up your packs, but the car becomes grossly unbalanced. With the heavier 3300's out there now, you will need to add so much weight on the other side of the car to properly balance the car. If you don't, you will discover that the car turns better in one direction than the other. Furthermore, transitions (chicanes) take longer to get through due to weight transitioning.

As far as more on power steering, increase your overall caster, or decrease droop in front, or try a softer spring in the front than the rear. There are numerous things you can do to increase on power steering. Go with the recommendations in the setup guide, or purchase the XXX Main setup. That has saved me on many race days.
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