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Old 07-03-2003, 04:16 AM   #3961
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I didnt do anything to my bearings, and 3 of them has gone away now.. (after 3 practise sessions, around 20packs, carpet racing) they are extremely free when you build the car, but they have a short lifespan (at least mine) So i bought some std metal shielded bearings that i first soaked in brake cleaner to get all the grease out of them, then i put a small amount of teflon oil in them, now they are as smooth as the xray ones...
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Old 07-03-2003, 07:27 AM   #3962
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skibum989: The berings are fine the way they are Mine are in great shape still. I would soak the belts on WD-40 to help them break in. Also bet the 3mm rear belt and just run it in Like every car it will progresively get freer and freer as you run it. If you wanted to be brave then remove the inner shield on the inside race for the berings on the hubs but that will increase maintenance. If you are running 3300 put a 1mm washer under the battery holder post to keep it from binding. I would also put a flat spot on the rear camber link pivot balls so the set screw has something to hold on to. Tread the shock end, or it will be a buger to get the shock shaft treaded on. If you don't have a 3mm tap at least run a screw on them that's all everithing else is straight forward. good luck.
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:27 AM   #3963
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The stock bearings will work just fine if you take care of them with frequent maintenance. I have switched to ceramic nitride bearings as a test for one of my Xrays. There is a considerable difference in how free the car is with the new pulleys and new rear belt. The RW spur does not go on the solid layshaft without dremeling two holes so they match up with the shaft. The RW spur is nice because of its longevity of life and that it is perfectly round due to machining.
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Old 07-03-2003, 11:51 AM   #3964
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Hi all,

New to the forum, have a few questions about the x-ray, I'm looking to buy an EVO2 FOC, does it come with a 48 pitch spur or 64 and what is the benefit to using the 64's? Also will the new belt and pulley items work with the EVO2, I've only read about people using them on the T1R? One more question, what does RW stand for in regards to the spur gears? Thanks
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Old 07-03-2003, 12:16 PM   #3965
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Quote:
Originally posted by Snobeast
Hi all,

New to the forum, have a few questions about the x-ray, I'm looking to buy an EVO2 FOC, does it come with a 48 pitch spur or 64 and what is the benefit to using the 64's? Also will the new belt and pulley items work with the EVO2, I've only read about people using them on the T1R? One more question, what does RW stand for in regards to the spur gears? Thanks
The Evo2 FOC comes with a 93T 48P spur gear. The benefit that 64P gears have over 48P is they allow you to fine tune your gearing. The new optional pulleys does fit the Evo2. RW is a name brand for spur gears. They use machined delrin to make their spurs compared to some companies who use an injection molding process.
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Old 07-03-2003, 12:26 PM   #3966
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How do i get a 128/27 combo to work on my t1r without the belt rubbing the motor?.I am running the the 1.77 pully system so Will this work?Thanks!By the way,I don't run mod often but wonder also if this is a ball park for gearing for a 10 double D5 flatliner.I am running on a medium sized carpet track.
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Old 07-03-2003, 12:53 PM   #3967
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racenut123: When the belt are pulled tight during accelleration, the belt won't hit the motor. At least it does not on my car. Sit the car on a table, hold the car, and then try to spin the spur forward. Then look at the belts to see if they hit the motor.

It is hard to say what gearing to use. Track layout is one factor. Another factor is tire diameter. If the car feels fast and does not overheat, then the gearing is right. Also, look at your lap times. Go up or down a tooth and recheck your lap times. What you have on it right now is probably a good starting point, but you will want to use lap times as the determining factor.
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Old 07-03-2003, 03:57 PM   #3968
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Ok Xray people......Now you've done it......With all your positive comments I've now gone and done it !!!! I've got an Evo2 FOC on the way. There goes the neighborhood !!!!
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Old 07-03-2003, 03:58 PM   #3969
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Default What the FOC?

What does FOC stand for?
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Old 07-03-2003, 04:01 PM   #3970
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fredom of choice
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Old 07-03-2003, 08:11 PM   #3971
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Hey guys,

I am not ready to post it on the swap and sells yet, but I am seling one of my two XRays. Wanted to give my buddies first dibs. This one is a fulll evo2, but the T1R chassis, battery straps and servo mounts. It willl come with carbon fiber front and rear shock towers, carbon fiber ultra flex top deck, Medium arms, full composite C-hub, hard anodized bulkheads, solid and one-way layshafts for only $185.00

And I can hop it up with anything your heart desires, but the price goes up, up and up!!! In hop-ups I have front one-way, spool, roll center bridge, front adjustable roll bar, rear roll bars, aluminum C-hubs and rear hubs, 1.77 pulleys, super flex 3-piece top-deck........., Like I said, anything your heart desires-at a price.

Ray
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Old 07-03-2003, 09:46 PM   #3972
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Is the T1R chassis better than the evo II chassis ? I do like the radio area alot better,The reason why i'm asking is i have a t1 with all the evo II parts and i'm thinking about getting the T1R chassis.But i'm not sure if it's worth the trouble to swap.
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Old 07-03-2003, 10:06 PM   #3973
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i just got done putting the 1.77 pulleys and the 3mm rear belt on my car. What a difference this has made in the car. the drivetrain has less friction with the new belt and pulleys. I cant wait to get it out on the track this sunday.
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Old 07-04-2003, 10:20 AM   #3974
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Quote:
Originally posted by xxxkat
Is the T1R chassis better than the evo II chassis ? I do like the radio area alot better,The reason why i'm asking is i have a t1 with all the evo II parts and i'm thinking about getting the T1R chassis.But i'm not sure if it's worth the trouble to swap.
There are some cases where the T1R chassis is better, but the majority of the time the Evo2 chassis is widely used. Due to the high flex of the T1R chassis, its best use is in a cool or cold temperature with low grip. In a high temp and/or high grip situation, the Evo2 chassis is better. When the heat is there, I do not recommend using the T1R chassis because it is plastic and can warp due to heat. Even heat from the batteries.
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Old 07-04-2003, 10:31 AM   #3975
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCInfinity
There are some cases where the T1R chassis is better, but the majority of the time the Evo2 chassis is widely used. Due to the high flex of the T1R chassis, its best use is in a cool or cold temperature with low grip. In a high temp and/or high grip situation, the Evo2 chassis is better. When the heat is there, I do not recommend using the T1R chassis because it is plastic and can warp due to heat. Even heat from the batteries.
Heay Neilio:
Did you know that Swanson prefers the T1R chassis to the evoII, even though he races mod at SoCal .... read... very high bite track
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