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Old 05-12-2003, 04:25 AM   #3421
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I ordered an XRay T1 Evo2 from my LHS last week and it should be arriving this Tuesday . Can you guys give me some tips and tricks as far as assembly of the kit and whatnot goes? Anything I should look out for? What upgrades should I buy for it?

Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2003, 05:41 AM   #3422
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Default BEARINGS

If your having trouble with bearings not spinning freely you can remove some of the shields altogether. The ones on the drivetrain especially. When two bearigns are next to eachother... you can remove the two inner shields without worrying about dirt getting in. So far ive had no problems with in regard to dirt getign in.
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Old 05-12-2003, 09:44 AM   #3423
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Quote:
Originally posted by Accord
I ordered an XRay T1 Evo2 from my LHS last week and it should be arriving this Tuesday . Can you guys give me some tips and tricks as far as assembly of the kit and whatnot goes? Anything I should look out for? What upgrades should I buy for it?

Thanks!
Accord, I have a few tips.

1. Don't loctite the 3x6 screws into the bulkhead through the chassis..if you do and they sit untouched for 2-3 months you'll strip the heads and then dremmel a flat spot to get the screw out of the bulkhead. Nothing loosens up on this car so I wouldn't worry about locktite too much.

2. Do not go by the scale drawing for the steering turn buckles, they're not to scale. The size (55 mm) I believe is correct.

3. Thread the turn buckle ends first with 3 mm screws. It will make for assembling the turn buckles a lot eastier, the same for teh lower shock mount.

4. Buy a hudy turn buckle wrench if yours didn't come with it (and you said Evo 2 kit and not Freedom of Choice which comes with the wrench) It will make it a lot easier to adjust the turnbuckles. Also buying the shock tool from Hudy would be a good idea (but not necessary)

5. I upgraded my shocks to alum shock bodies. I found the plastic shock bodies cross threaded too much.

6. You won't find it till the end of the manual, but there is an extra parts bag that has spare set screws and C clips etc.. (I believe it comes in the back with the rims etc.) I cursed myself out cause I lost something, drove to my LHS to get the part and then came back to notice that the part was in the spare parts bag.

7. This car is pretty tough, but things do break. If you plan on racing I would pick up extra front knuckles, upper and lower front arms, and rear arms for spares. I also found the optional larger impact front bumper to be a good investment. The rest of the car can be customized to your likings.

8. If you plan on racing, the optional spring set is great and you can tune your suspension based on your chassis, surface and driving style. It comes with 6 sets (of 4 springs each) of different spring thicknesses (color coded)

Good luck, and enjoy building...it's a great car!
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Old 05-12-2003, 02:19 PM   #3424
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I'd agree with all of that. You don't need to threadlock any screws on the car, it's not nitro so there's (relatively) no vibration.
Be really careful with the lower shock seals and make sure you pre-thread the ball cups with a 3mm screw, they're the very devil to get on otherwise. The Hudy shock tool is really useful for getting the seals in correctly, make sure you lubricate the o-rings well too.

As for option parts, it depends on where you are planning on racing. I only race on rubber tyres, foams are for toy, 1/12th, cars over here.

For carpet you need the roll bars (front and rear), the rear roll centre bridge, original T1 top deck and a set of blue springs for the front shocks (all the others are too hard to give enough grip, trust me to find that out having spent 50 on the tuning set...)

Outside on tarmac you can leave the roll bars and top deck off, you want all the grip you can get your hands on.

RCinfinity; I've no idea how the belt survives with a modified, I'm a hardened stock racer. From what I've seen you only really need the extra flexibility with the power defecit of 27t.
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Old 05-12-2003, 02:48 PM   #3425
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Shock building tip - put a hairdryer or heatgun on the ball cups before threading them. It helped me quit a bit
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Old 05-12-2003, 05:01 PM   #3426
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Quote:
Originally posted by university_dave
RCinfinity; I've no idea how the belt survives with a modified, I'm a hardened stock racer. From what I've seen you only really need the extra flexibility with the power defecit of 27t.
Oh, ok. I was just wondering. I'm surprised the pitch of the belt matches the xray pulleys.
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Old 05-12-2003, 05:01 PM   #3427
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Quote:
Originally posted by university_dave
RCinfinity; I've no idea how the belt survives with a modified, I'm a hardened stock racer. From what I've seen you only really need the extra flexibility with the power defecit of 27t.
Oh, ok. I was just wondering. I'm surprised the pitch of the belt matches the xray pulleys.
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Old 05-13-2003, 09:50 AM   #3428
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I actually just had to replace my front belt (teeth were starting to look fuzzy and worn, but not cracked) and have a story to go with it. I was racing outside at a VERY DIRTY track and the dirt actually got stuck inside the teeth of my front one way and cause the teeth to be fill up with mud and become missaligned (belt tooth on top of dif tooth) and it pulled the chassis together (this is without the upper deck on). When the tension was so great it finally snapped back and the teeth were alligned again, till the next rotation and boing! snapped back into the teeth. At first I thought the front belt stretched so much that it was skipping teeth (and then I changed the belt and it still did it) till I saw the mud in the teeth of the front dif.

So a short ending to the long story, make sure mud does not build up in the front diff cause it will drive you crazy trying to figure out where the tension/popping is coming from.
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Old 05-13-2003, 02:33 PM   #3429
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
So a short ending to the long story, make sure mud does not build up in the front diff cause it will drive you crazy trying to figure out where the tension/popping is coming from.
MUD! Where are you driving? An off-road track?
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Old 05-14-2003, 06:02 AM   #3430
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Quote:
Originally posted by pucho
MUD! Where are you driving? An off-road track?
well it really wasn't mud.. But dirt that when it rained it chunked up inside the diff teeth. Don't worry, im not racing there again untill the track is clean (which I doubt cause it's a supermarket parking lot)
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Old 05-14-2003, 06:26 AM   #3431
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accord


i have a evo 2 and t1r , what the other guys are saying is mostly correctbut, on carpet here in the usa you will need the low profile shock tower, pink springs on front and voilet on the back. (note) to run the low prof. shock tower you will have to order the alum. spring cups (under t1 shocks on the web site) this is the only way to get the correct ride height. no body at the snowbirds
ran rear sways but , the front is a must. run your foam 56mm to 57 mm xray's run better on shorter foams, spools work great on tight , short tracks, but like the snows and other larger tracks the diff. was faster. a great up grade is the carbide diff and steel hex out drives. in testing the evo lower deck was faster outside but harder to drive then the t1r deck. just a thought. hope this helps
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:40 AM   #3432
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university dave is funny! Toy 1/12th scale cars LOL, I love toy cars that have half as many moving parts, two less cells, and can still run a lap two tenths quicker than a Touring Car.

Oh well, I am now the proud owner of a T1 with the C-hub set up. Currently, I'm racing outdoors on a rather abrasive parking lot. We run foam tires, because rubber tires are for off-road cars and monster trucks. My question for you X-Ray guys is this, I'm currently running the Parma MG X-20 body, would a Stratus 2.0 or Losi Alfa have more steering?
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:51 AM   #3433
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Default Cant decide.

Cant decide between the Xray evo2 or a losi xxxsG+ not sure what to do... do you get any of those fine ass hudy tools with the "fredom of choic kit"
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Old 05-14-2003, 07:57 AM   #3434
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Cypress-YOu DA Man!!! Way to go!!!

I got a hack chassis that would be prefect for you to run outdoors. Its got slots and notches cut-out in it-but will work great out at CORCAR!! I also have the 3-piece top-deck as well. Let me know what you need and I'll send it to you my man!!!

YOu should see the Gate now. Painted all the perimeter boards, painted the drivers stands to match and all NEW interior boards!!!

We built 40 1 foot pieces so we can make nice ROUND corners. No more full speeed 90* bends!!! Our track is gonnna be one of the best in the USA when were done next week. Also many more flappers were cut and we have a most innovative corner system usiing my old Kart tires and a flapper.

See ya at the Gate or at CORCAR sometime this summer.

Ray
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Old 05-14-2003, 08:00 AM   #3435
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he also..what is the kit setup like for the Xray..if i put 40's"foams allround and ran it on tarmac?
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