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Old 04-28-2003, 08:13 PM   #3316
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I trashed on Wednesday night to get my T1R built, built it with the front one way and rollcenter bridge off the back. I have to say it's a very nice kit. Unfortunately I didn't get to drive it much. I have a couple of tips for those that haven't build their kits yet or have but could use it.

Soak the belt's on some WD-40 overnight it will help speed up the break in prosses.

Put a flat spot on the rear pivot balls it will help the set screw grab them better.

place a 1mm washer between the chassis and baterry post to race them up if your running 3300's they will fit better.

Other than that the car was built per the instructions I ran 4 packs trough before it started raning ang got the car running well as soon as Im settle in a set up Ill post back.
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Old 04-28-2003, 11:30 PM   #3317
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Quote:
Originally posted by Elk666
ooops my mistake, final drive ratio is 8.77 the motor gets quite hot after a pack
i have tried a combo of 87/28 and i didn't really like it, the car seemed to not have the power of the previous setup i had so i switched back to 99/24
If you can, go with 64pitch for finer tuning depending on your track. With the Monster Pro Stock, it's safe and fast with plenty of torque running between 7.29 to 7.50. If the track is truly techical and every single drop of punch is needed, then gear it back to 48p to get 7.60. The motor should run hot but not hot enough to burn your fingers and is the most suitable gearing for the Monster Stock. If you place a digital temp gun on the motor just right after your race, it should register 130~139f. Anything above that would be overgearing, anything under 130 would be undergearing. I hope this is not too techical in terms of knowledge. LOL..

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Old 04-28-2003, 11:41 PM   #3318
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Quote:
Originally posted by Devin
Jeeze, im suprized you didn't burn it up even more... I was running a 124/38 and it was warm to the touch after 5 minute quals on carpet. Im switching to a 120/34-36 for asphalt racing (thanks Jimmy) I have yet to see what it can do, but soon...probably this weekend at the ORL challenge.

BTW, you guys have any secrets on building shocks or go right from the instruction manual? I did what it says and I always get some push back on the shock shaft. They never have air in them so tell me if I have to rebuild and another procedure so they do not push back.
Devin,

What I do after filling the shocks and capping them, I would turn them upside down and unscrew the black cap, lightly pop them off while the shaft is fully extended. *Make sure the o-ring is inside the black end cap and not sliding on the shaft or else you'll need to rebuilt again., By being sure, add a little Associated "Green Slime" to the o-ring for a good seal and smoothness.* Then slowly press the shaft inward and let the end of the shaft bring the cap back into place, then tighten it. This should force all the air out and the excessive oils out just enough for the shaft to have a slight or no rebound. Rebound of 2mm and below is ok depending on which shock bladder you use. RC zombies suggested the GS bladder which are great bladder with a tight seal which will allow you to rebuilt your shock less often. My brother rebuilt his shocks with those bladder and have had over 50 runs on them and they still feel like newly builts. Xray shocks are a pain to build but they are great shocks once the painstaking process is done correctly. I find that the most valuable thing in building these shocks are the "Green Slime" which can be easily had at any LHS. Oh, and I forgot to mention, when pumping your shocks to get the air out, always start off with all holes closed, then finally open all holes once the airs are gone so you can feel the smoothness of the flow. Once the shocks are built, they should feel the same way. Good Luck! Happy Racing!

Jimmy
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Old 04-28-2003, 11:43 PM   #3319
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Quote:
Originally posted by rc-zombies
Oopss.. I made a boo boo...that was for a P2K2.. I would probably gear the monster the same as Jimmy's recommendation.

I built my shocks with the GS silicone bladders instead of the stock blacks one...for the stock bladders tend to leak. the GS bladders..it's virtually leak free and has lots of rebound to it.
Yes, those bladders are great! Can't wait to get some more. Oh, sorry for the delay in replying, just got back from out of town. Will be emailing you soon.

Jimmy
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Old 04-29-2003, 12:45 AM   #3320
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Mobile 1 Synthetic is also very good to soak the belts in....
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Old 04-29-2003, 06:03 AM   #3321
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Thanks Jimmy, i'll try that.
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Old 04-29-2003, 10:35 AM   #3322
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Quote:
Originally posted by RBLove
Mobile 1 Synthetic is also very good to soak the belts in....
What kind of breakdown of mat'l did you get with the synthetic?
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Old 04-29-2003, 12:51 PM   #3323
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Rob, what does the T1R weigh in at with the body and GP cells? Is your friend running a graphite top deck or shock towers? I am assuming I know who your friend is and he was balistic with the EVO 2 so that is really saying something. May have to buy a second car now!

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Old 04-29-2003, 12:59 PM   #3324
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Joneser,

I just bought a killer second evo2 for the hop-up parts and I also am buying the T1R chassis soon. Spending a lot on my 4wd Impact right now too-so chassis might have to wait a bit!!!

Expect to see a Very Nice-and full composite C-hub Xray T1 evo2 on the swap and sells early next week-cheap from me!!!

Ray
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Old 04-29-2003, 01:28 PM   #3325
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I just got your email and phone message a little while ago. Had a field trip with my 4 year old then we went golfing. So now you have 2 sets of aluminum......too bad I already bought the 3 degree c-hubs. Maybe I will be in the market for rear hubs? Giving some thought to an entire racer kit. This will give me spares of everything and the chassis. Sounds like it may be a winner.
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Old 04-29-2003, 01:36 PM   #3326
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Cool-sorry for cussing on your answering machine!! I hope its Voice Mail-not on a speaker phone!!!!

Yeah-between Rob and Junior with the T1R-we'll be set on a set-up.

I took the kick-up out of the car in front as I thought it was killing my mid-corner speed and it freed car up-but it wont stay on the line anymore. I push out on exit. When the aluminum 6-degree caster blocks come in-I will put them on with arms flat and see if thats the hot ticket!!! From what I feel right now-I think it will be!!
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:20 PM   #3327
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Some info on those ever mysterious top shaft pulleys.

http://www.rczone.net/modules.php?na...rticle&sid=371
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:22 PM   #3328
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With GP cells a GM V12 Airtronics 2 chanel recever Futaba 9450 servo, AMB personal transponder, Monster stock motor, and CS-27's on speedmind dish wheels also a stratus 2.0 mine weght in at 53.3oz Perfect for asphalt. I am going to put my ti screws from my Mission on there thoug And Ill see how that affects the weight.
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:29 PM   #3329
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Thanks for the weigh in.....seems a bit heavy. Need to get it close to 50 ounces. How much more do those tires weigh compared to foams.....any idea?
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Old 04-29-2003, 02:33 PM   #3330
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Im out to the shop to practice Ill try and see what the difference is and Ill post it latter.
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