JacoSA

What is the best way to clean the new blue shield bearings?

Neil Rabara

Take the blue shields out, spray the exposed bearing and shields with motor spray, lightly re-oil, re-install the clean shields.

Neil Rabara

Has anyone had problems with the front spool developing notches in the outdrives during use?

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

That is common for aluminum outdrives...
plus the spool takes alot more abuse than std. diffs..

Neil Rabara

Has anyone tried locking their spring steel diff, if so how did you do it? Has anyone had problems doing it?

(SE)XRAY

Hey guys,

Is anyone having problems with the rear end of the chassis wearing down?

Help please

Thanks boys...

university_dave

Try a rear anti-roll bar if it is because of the weight transfer at the rear of the car. If you're hopping over kerbs all the time then buy a chassis protector from Losi or Associated, or stop hitting the kerbs...

John Fontaine

iTrader: (2)

It's interesting that you say this. I never had a decrease in steering when I installed the front anti-roll bar. I also run a front One-way and the solid alum mid shaft. Generally I have too much steering and need to drop the duel rate to 65% to prevent oversteer. The front blades are about a 45º angle. They're stiff, but I believe they work well. I also run the rear anti-roll bar. Interesting.

dtm

Devin- It's good to hear that some one has managed to get the front roll bar to work. I've never had much luck with them.

Jimmy Fukuyama

The front Adjustable works if you set the front droop correctly and have the right shock/hole/spring combination. If set up correctly, the front adjustable will actually give you more steering and allow the car to handle with precision.

warlord385

I've always been able to get the front antiroll to work. I use it all the time and especially like it for tight twisty high traction tracks. I also use the rear anti roll bar

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

Warlord...it sounds like your setup would be great at SoCal. Do you mind sharing?

warlord385

sure. I have my own racing setup and theory I follow and have been tweaking (only been racing for 3 months but I know my cars)

This if for rubber and on ozite

Front
blue springs (thinkin about changing to next stiffest))
60wt - 4 holes (thinkin about using 3)
1mm droop (gonna try 3mm)
1.5 camber
0 toe
Anti roll bar is stiffest(may go to 45)
lovely front one-way

Rear
Blue springs (thinkin about changin to next stiffest)
60wt - 3holes (thinkin about using 2)
5mm droop (gonna try 5,6,7)
2.0 camper
2 degree toe
2.0mm roll bar
Really really tight rear diff

I plan on messin around with droop more than anything next time I'm at hte track and try to go stiffer with my setup. I am the 3rd or 4th fastest person at our track which i think is more due to the fact i hit stuff so often but the car is the fastes around the corner if driven right. I pretty much only have to get of the throttle to point the car into the corner but after its pointed in its full throttle all the way to the next corner. Its great fun and easy to drive. I use a futaba magnum junior so I think havin some expo might help me from hittin stuff (have 3pk comin in). Oh hear the caster is stock but the wheel base is shortened with 1mm in from of arms and 8 in rear. I have foam setup also still tweakin this rubber setup and foam (i'm always tweakin). Maybe two more practice days and I'll find it. Oh yeah only one problem with this setup. There is a very very very slight oversteer. Its kinda cool on ozite cause when the rear skids it sounds like a real car skidding; it makes that tire screeching sound. Still tryin to figure it out. But tell me wut you think

warlord385

oh yeah thats stock racing, with sorex 20R with echo reds all the way around and it works well with pit 24 and pid mediums all the way around. I like th sorexs but i'm have too much wear on the outside rears but i don't think its camber. Still need to figure it out

Jimmy Fukuyama

Dotman,

Try this setup for Socal:

Front:
0 Camber
0 Toe-in/out
droop 2mm
Yellow or white springs
2 holes or 3 holes open
3 caster (6 if you want better control)
Sorex 36R w/ HPI Greens or Yokomo Slim depending on your driving style and how aggressive you turn.
Front Anti Roll flat
Ride Height: 5mm


Rear:
2 Camber
2 Toe-in
Droop 3mm
Yellow or White springs (depending on the tightness of your read diff.)
3 or all holes opened
0 anti squat
Sorex 36R w/HPI greens or Yokomo Slim
Rear swaybar suggested w/ 2mm setting.
Rideheight: 5.5mm

Ackerman setting: Inner hole
Steering block setting: forward
Roll center: outside/upper

Tire Additives:

Front outside halves.
Rear full tire.

You should be able to get this connected and turn aggressively into and out of corners.

Good Luck and Happy Racing!

Jimmy