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Old 11-19-2001, 08:09 AM   #301
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Quote:
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Thats where I got my experience from too... same BAD design!!!
this is one of the same parts the cars share!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:11 AM   #302
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Oh, IC, the center one-way on the layshaft. I have not had anything fail on its own, yet. I tear apart my car every two weeks and would have thought something would wear out that way but nothing has.

I break steering blocks. That is all I can get to fail. Crashes is how I have experieced failures.
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:14 AM   #303
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Touch wood.... I'm still on my original steering blocks...... a lot better than the Mugen MTX2 steering blocks!!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:20 AM   #304
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
Touch wood.... I'm still on my original steering blocks...... a lot better than the Mugen MTX2 steering blocks!!
Yeah, yeah, original steering blocks. I wish I had mine. I have tried daring tighter lines and in doing so I clip the turns with the wheel.

I know when my cap for the receiver has failed because my digital servo is twitchy in the turns and that was my problem on Saturday but not Sunday. I did very good on Sunday to avoid the boards and not twitch.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 11-19-2001 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:20 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
Touch wood.... I'm still on my original steering blocks...... a lot better than the Mugen MTX2 steering blocks!!
i dont have steering blocks for these cars at all !!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:25 AM   #306
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet

Yeah, yeah, original steering blocks. I wish I had mine. I have tried daring tighter lines and in doing so I clip the turns with the wheel.
You must run on a track which have fairly vertical hard barriers. They have a tendancy of gripping the front tires and tearing the blocks off if you are too tight in a turn!

Have you tried running with the wide plastic bumper and changing to a harder foam bumper like the Atlas YM34 foam? It may help a little!?!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:28 AM   #307
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore

i dont have steering blocks for these cars at all !!
Don't speak too soon! you're tempting fate!!!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:29 AM   #308
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I may do that, find a wider bumper and harder foam. The wife's company makes foam so I am good there. I will search for the bumper.

We use 2x4 for the infield. I am hoping that when the permanent is open that it will not use boards at all.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 11-19-2001 at 08:31 AM.
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:33 AM   #309
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet
We use 2x4 for the infield. I am hoping that when the permanent is open that it will not use boards at all.
That would explain a lot!!
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Old 11-19-2001, 08:37 AM   #310
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


That would explain a lot!!

Yip! I have three corners with my name on it. I hit the boards a total of eight times and did not break. I was lucky because three of the hits where from backmarkers trying to squeeze me off.

I did not get to run with my peers. I was lumped in with the slower derby types. My first round only allowed me to qualify nineth, second round I climbed to sixth, and in the A-main fifth.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 11-19-2001 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 11-19-2001, 09:45 AM   #311
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm


Don't speak too soon! you're tempting fate!!!
how soon is too soon?
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Old 11-19-2001, 11:37 AM   #312
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Default Kaliboy - Setup

I'd stick with this car. Especially for carpet. Its design encourages high traction setups. I'm at work so I don't have all the details of my setup but here's what I remember. I had Serpent Blue Springs (exactly same as Hudy but they may be painted different color - 1.8mm wire) on the front and back. Stock kit oil with 1 hole piston up front and 2 hole piston in back. Front Shock Mounting - top in the middle hole and bottom in the outside hole. Rear Shock Mounting - top in the outside hole and the bottom in the outside hole as well. I did not have any swaybars (haven't gotten them yet). Plaid tires up front and Purple in the back. I had 3 degrees of kickup in front and 3 degrees of Anti-squat in the rear. I used the stock wheel base and caster shim settings but I don't recall their values right now. Neg 2 degrees of camber all around. 4.0mm of ride height all around (because I didn't know how much lean I would have without sways). 0 toe up front and 2.5 deg of toe in the rear. Batteries both in the rear position. I set droop by eye because of time contraints and just checked it by doing the lift test. I typically do no preload springs with droop though.

This setup was very stable, easy to drive, yet fast. For my next changes, I'm going to set the rear squat to 0, reduce the rear toe to 2. Not much change needed though
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Old 11-19-2001, 05:42 PM   #313
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Has anyone gotten the anti roll bar in. "wadda ya" think about it. I would like to eval it for some reduced settings on my T1.

What are some of you T-1 owners doing with those (*&^^$#!! shocks. I have fought with them for the last time. I can't wait for Hudy to ship the new shock configuration (d slot).

Lastly I have been snake bit by those (deleted due to content undesirable to children and small dogs) screw based wheel locks. And it seems only to happen if I have been leading heats or mains when I had them come loose.
I've started to locktite them but, that seems like the the washer should be doing its job.

Those of you running both stock and mod, are you tightening the diff when running the mod motors?
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Old 11-19-2001, 07:14 PM   #314
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Quote:
Originally posted by Manticore


how soon is too soon?
Thats for 'fate' to decide!!!
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Old 11-19-2001, 09:54 PM   #315
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mad Max
Has anyone gotten the anti roll bar in. "wadda ya" think about it. I would like to eval it for some reduced settings on my T1.

What are some of you T-1 owners doing with those (*&^^$#!! shocks. I have fought with them for the last time. I can't wait for Hudy to ship the new shock configuration (d slot).

Lastly I have been snake bit by those (deleted due to content undesirable to children and small dogs) screw based wheel locks. And it seems only to happen if I have been leading heats or mains when I had them come loose.
I've started to locktite them but, that seems like the the washer should be doing its job.

Those of you running both stock and mod, are you tightening the diff when running the mod motors?
I am sure that you are facing the cone washer correctly against the wheel. I have seen someone loose thier wheel and it was because the Warlock type wheels didn't have an opening large enough for the washer to rest upon a flat surface. I wrench my screws tight and have no problems.

I have not needed to tighten my diff when changing to a mod. No probs with the shocks also.
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