Xray T1
#271
Originally posted by Manticore
but how can you asure they come in asymmetical to each other with hand tool?
but how can you asure they come in asymmetical to each other with hand tool?
Last edited by RCCadet; 11-07-2001 at 08:54 PM.
#272
Originally posted by RCCadet
That was easy. Dremel has a drill press stand. I then mounted the pieces to the bulkhead, clamped it in place, and drilled one side of each pin holder using the same mounting point in the bulkhead for consistantcy.
That was easy. Dremel has a drill press stand. I then mounted the pieces to the bulkhead, clamped it in place, and drilled one side of each pin holder using the same mounting point in the bulkhead for consistantcy.
#273
Originally posted by RCCadet
That was easy. Dremel has a drill press stand. I then mounted the pieces to the bulkhead, clamped it in place, and drilled one side of each pin holder using the same mounting point in the bulkhead for consistantcy.
That was easy. Dremel has a drill press stand. I then mounted the pieces to the bulkhead, clamped it in place, and drilled one side of each pin holder using the same mounting point in the bulkhead for consistantcy.
It was not easy. With the first attempt the pin holder rotated slightly so at the surface there is evidence of a struggle. I had to then clamp the pin holder in place also. The screw up is very minor, a scratch to be honest.
#274
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
hi guys! just a a quick question, im very interested in aquiring a T1 coz i think the car's design is awesome! thing is, i might have to get it abroad since there are no suppliers locally for it. that being the case, what parts should i stock up on? what parts are most likely to break (if there are any) or wear of the fastest? offhand the car looks like its built really sturdy but im not a very good driver and our local track has unforgiving pipes for barriers so i hope to at least have some stock of parts that will most likely give way if ever ..... post here or even better, PM me. thanks for your inputs in advance!
#275
Tech Regular
Hi ya guys! So how's everybody T1 doing? Mines been taking apart and cleaned out and relube everything on the drive train, also i had installed the front anti roll bar, and the rear roll bar. At this time the front is on the 45 degree angle which is the med. setting, and the rear is the 2 mm bar, will be racing this Saturday evening if it does not rain, the forecast says chance of showers but there're not always accurate, but will see, My setup is about the same that i post earlier back, the only difference is i have install the roll bars on the T1.
Anyone else racing this weekend? If yes, Good Luck guys and gals.
Well the earlier post i had post about that i been out of the scene due to girlfriend left me for another guy. Well I'm over it, I have a date this Saturday, she and one of her girl friends will be with me at the race this Saturday, if it rains Oh well, will be doing something else. Thanks guys.
Anyone else racing this weekend? If yes, Good Luck guys and gals.
Well the earlier post i had post about that i been out of the scene due to girlfriend left me for another guy. Well I'm over it, I have a date this Saturday, she and one of her girl friends will be with me at the race this Saturday, if it rains Oh well, will be doing something else. Thanks guys.
#276
Tech Master
iTrader: (8)
ROBORAT, like you, I'm not very good, and in 6 months of indoor and outdoor racing I've had many endos, sideos and boardos, as well as regular crashes. To date nothing has broken. The only parts I've heard of that seem to be most likely to break are the steering blocks, part# 302210 right, and 302220 left, but so far I've been lucky. I think you'll like the T1.
#277
Part 302040 pivot pin holders and Hinge pins all around lower. Get extra arms all around upper and lower just in case. Blades, for the outdrives, springs all around, ball cups, and caster clips. All that should only cost around 60 bucks extra. I have only busted a hinge pin, and that lower pivot mount after almost a year of racing. It broke due to me trying to race with no practice.
Oh well lesson learned.
Damo
Oh well lesson learned.
Damo
#278
Originally posted by damo
Part 302040 pivot pin holders and Hinge pins all around lower. Get extra arms all around upper and lower just in case. Blades, for the outdrives, springs all around, ball cups, and caster clips. All that should only cost around 60 bucks extra. I have only busted a hinge pin, and that lower pivot mount after almost a year of racing. It broke due to me trying to race with no practice.
Oh well lesson learned.
Damo
Part 302040 pivot pin holders and Hinge pins all around lower. Get extra arms all around upper and lower just in case. Blades, for the outdrives, springs all around, ball cups, and caster clips. All that should only cost around 60 bucks extra. I have only busted a hinge pin, and that lower pivot mount after almost a year of racing. It broke due to me trying to race with no practice.
Oh well lesson learned.
Damo
#279
Tech Regular
This forum fell to the 2nd page again! We can't let this happen again guys.
Well went to the race track on Saturday, got one battery pack in, the car was like on rails ( woo Hoo ) but it started to rain so that was that.
How about the rest of ya T1? Did any of you guys race last weekend?
Well went to the race track on Saturday, got one battery pack in, the car was like on rails ( woo Hoo ) but it started to rain so that was that.
How about the rest of ya T1? Did any of you guys race last weekend?
#280
ROBORAT, FROM WHAT COUNTRY ARE YOU?
#281
I ran this past weekend on concrete. I did not change a setting but did change to HPI 24 MM Advan's with 26 MM firm inserts and was tracking on rails. My strongest and only competition was a Pro3. I posted our results in the Texas Racing club thread.
We weaved in and out of each other but I prevailed in the end. I set the fastest lap time and did not have to gear up like the other guy did. That was the kicker, I did not nothing to gain additional motor speed. I worked at improving my lines and the T1 was able to enter and exit turns at much higher speeds as the Advan tires heated up.
This kit has a lot of potential. I have a big race this weekend. I will try to snag third in the points race.
We weaved in and out of each other but I prevailed in the end. I set the fastest lap time and did not have to gear up like the other guy did. That was the kicker, I did not nothing to gain additional motor speed. I worked at improving my lines and the T1 was able to enter and exit turns at much higher speeds as the Advan tires heated up.
This kit has a lot of potential. I have a big race this weekend. I will try to snag third in the points race.
Last edited by RCCadet; 11-14-2001 at 09:49 PM.
#282
Tech Adept
Okay, I broke down and bought a Losi. After many days at the track I finally got fed up with the Xray. Now why would I go ahead and do something like that? The Xray has yet prove itself on an indoor carpet track on foam tires. On the asphault on rubber I'm very happy. The car has lots of potential outdoors, but I am about a half second per lap off the pace compared to the XXXS and the TC3. It's just plain and simple, the Xray just does not roll through or rotate around the turns as well as the LOSI and AE cars do. It's funny...I told myself I would never run a LOSI. This past weekend, I drove a Losi and was convinced at least in stock I was. Okay, before all of you Xray guys start bashing let me tell you of my experience with the Xray. I will try to take pics of the track so that you can see how technical and tight the course is. Here is the website.... www.rctrack.com
Also, I was planning on selling the Xray, but I haven't given up totally just yet. I'm going to be running the Losi for stock in the upcomin Trinity Challenge here at my track. The Losi was so smooth going into and out of the turns and just made me more confident of driving. TQ pace for the layout of our track in stock class is 18 laps 5:03( or pretty close to that). One other guy using the LCS from Team Orion was able to barely make 19 laps during the week. One of the guys that I race with is Mike Dunningan...and if I remember correctly he won the Stock class at the Nats earlier this year at the same track we race at on a regular basis. My best time using the LCS was 17 / 5:00:59. With that run my fastest lap time was 17.10, although I did manage to do about three 18 sec laps. My average lap times are around 17 sec. By comparison, the top of the A-main guys were running low 16 sec lap times. So I'm about a 1/2 sec to a full second per lap off of the pace. I studied Dunningans line and many of the other guys that were hitting 18 laps, and my line is pretty tight. What I found out was that my corner speed wasn't as fast as the other guys. Batteries and motor are not a problem. So it has to do with my setup. I've tried many setups already and I'm just getting tired of trying to find it. I started with the one way diff then finally took it out. I had more corner speed but it was more difficult to control and tire wear in the front was ridiculous. I would hit the same lines as the other guys but I was loosing about a fraction of a second off of each turn. Sure...to some people big deal about a fraction...but if you had uup all the turns in one lap times 17-18 laps...that makes a huge difference.
It's also kind of funny to hear people's reaction when I let them drive my car. Everybody who has ever driven it has said that the steering is so twitchy on too responsive...too much dual rate...etc...that they can't believe I can even drive it. The end up hitting the wall at first then after a two or three laps they adjust to it....but they still wack the boards. These guys that are saying this are consistent A main qualifiers. Now when I drive their car....all I have to say is "DIALED". I drove one other guys Losi and it was so easy to carve into and out of the turns compared with my car. The Losi was just plain and simply easy to drive.
Okay here is my setup that I ran to get my best run:
Front:
Shocks: Upper 2, lower 2, 40w/yellow springs, 1 hole open
downstop: 1mm
tires: Jaco Plaids
ride ht: 4.5
camber: 1.5 in
toe: 0 deg
caster: 2mm + 1mm clip in front of arm
width 189mm
eccentric cams: same as stock settings
anti dive: 3 deg
front swaybar at 45 deg
Rear:
Shocks: Upper 2, lower 1, 40w/yellow springs, 2 holes open
Downstop: 5mm
Tires: Jaco purples
ride ht: 4.5mm
camber: 2 deg
toe: 2 deg
wheelbase: shortest setting
width: 189mm
camber link in #2 position with link using the lowest setting on the roll center bridge
anti squat: 3 deg
no rear sway bar
Tire traction is 1/3 front and full rear. Tires are 28mm wide, and I start at 60mm dia and run them down to about 56mm. I adjust ride ht and downstops accordingly.
This seems to be the best feeling setup I have driven so far. For the last two weeks I have been at the track 4-5 times a week not including race day on Saturdays. I usually run anywhere between 4-6 hours a day. I try to avoid changing the setup too quickly. I'll try a setup and run anywhere between 6-10 packs through each setup to get a true feel of the setup. The funny thing again is that with each of the setups I've tried, I usually do 17 laps anyways with lap times in the low 17's to mid 17's, and about 2-4 low 18 sec laps. YES...I know I lost 4 sec there but my point is with a good setup, I should be able to do at least a 16 sec lap. I've done one 16 sec lap (16.96) and I have yet to do it again.
Also when running a setup during the day...I've played with gearing as well. I'll start off with the same gearing as the Losi's and go from there either increasing or decreasing it to get an equal balance of top and bottom end. To no avail, I seem to be stuck in the 17 sec laptimes. The consitantcy of my lap times shows that I'm at least hitting the same line most of the time. The 18 sec times are me just getting too close into the turns. Also, no matter how twitch or responsive the steering is, If I turn down the dual rate then I won't have anymore steering coming out of the turns. Also, the rear end is planted no matter how much steering I have. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks...
JB
Also, I was planning on selling the Xray, but I haven't given up totally just yet. I'm going to be running the Losi for stock in the upcomin Trinity Challenge here at my track. The Losi was so smooth going into and out of the turns and just made me more confident of driving. TQ pace for the layout of our track in stock class is 18 laps 5:03( or pretty close to that). One other guy using the LCS from Team Orion was able to barely make 19 laps during the week. One of the guys that I race with is Mike Dunningan...and if I remember correctly he won the Stock class at the Nats earlier this year at the same track we race at on a regular basis. My best time using the LCS was 17 / 5:00:59. With that run my fastest lap time was 17.10, although I did manage to do about three 18 sec laps. My average lap times are around 17 sec. By comparison, the top of the A-main guys were running low 16 sec lap times. So I'm about a 1/2 sec to a full second per lap off of the pace. I studied Dunningans line and many of the other guys that were hitting 18 laps, and my line is pretty tight. What I found out was that my corner speed wasn't as fast as the other guys. Batteries and motor are not a problem. So it has to do with my setup. I've tried many setups already and I'm just getting tired of trying to find it. I started with the one way diff then finally took it out. I had more corner speed but it was more difficult to control and tire wear in the front was ridiculous. I would hit the same lines as the other guys but I was loosing about a fraction of a second off of each turn. Sure...to some people big deal about a fraction...but if you had uup all the turns in one lap times 17-18 laps...that makes a huge difference.
It's also kind of funny to hear people's reaction when I let them drive my car. Everybody who has ever driven it has said that the steering is so twitchy on too responsive...too much dual rate...etc...that they can't believe I can even drive it. The end up hitting the wall at first then after a two or three laps they adjust to it....but they still wack the boards. These guys that are saying this are consistent A main qualifiers. Now when I drive their car....all I have to say is "DIALED". I drove one other guys Losi and it was so easy to carve into and out of the turns compared with my car. The Losi was just plain and simply easy to drive.
Okay here is my setup that I ran to get my best run:
Front:
Shocks: Upper 2, lower 2, 40w/yellow springs, 1 hole open
downstop: 1mm
tires: Jaco Plaids
ride ht: 4.5
camber: 1.5 in
toe: 0 deg
caster: 2mm + 1mm clip in front of arm
width 189mm
eccentric cams: same as stock settings
anti dive: 3 deg
front swaybar at 45 deg
Rear:
Shocks: Upper 2, lower 1, 40w/yellow springs, 2 holes open
Downstop: 5mm
Tires: Jaco purples
ride ht: 4.5mm
camber: 2 deg
toe: 2 deg
wheelbase: shortest setting
width: 189mm
camber link in #2 position with link using the lowest setting on the roll center bridge
anti squat: 3 deg
no rear sway bar
Tire traction is 1/3 front and full rear. Tires are 28mm wide, and I start at 60mm dia and run them down to about 56mm. I adjust ride ht and downstops accordingly.
This seems to be the best feeling setup I have driven so far. For the last two weeks I have been at the track 4-5 times a week not including race day on Saturdays. I usually run anywhere between 4-6 hours a day. I try to avoid changing the setup too quickly. I'll try a setup and run anywhere between 6-10 packs through each setup to get a true feel of the setup. The funny thing again is that with each of the setups I've tried, I usually do 17 laps anyways with lap times in the low 17's to mid 17's, and about 2-4 low 18 sec laps. YES...I know I lost 4 sec there but my point is with a good setup, I should be able to do at least a 16 sec lap. I've done one 16 sec lap (16.96) and I have yet to do it again.
Also when running a setup during the day...I've played with gearing as well. I'll start off with the same gearing as the Losi's and go from there either increasing or decreasing it to get an equal balance of top and bottom end. To no avail, I seem to be stuck in the 17 sec laptimes. The consitantcy of my lap times shows that I'm at least hitting the same line most of the time. The 18 sec times are me just getting too close into the turns. Also, no matter how twitch or responsive the steering is, If I turn down the dual rate then I won't have anymore steering coming out of the turns. Also, the rear end is planted no matter how much steering I have. Hope that makes sense.
Thanks...
JB
#283
Kaliboy: There is absolutely nothing wrong with using what works best under certain conditions. I strongly believe Takeoff tires are the best but use other brands. I happen to have two TC3's. I also have considered the XXX-S. Time will tell wether I get one in the spring.
I am trying to hang with the multi-regional champs and if I don't do well with the T1 this weekend I am going to the XXX-S for asphalt next year.
I am trying to hang with the multi-regional champs and if I don't do well with the T1 this weekend I am going to the XXX-S for asphalt next year.
#284
Tech Adept
Originally posted by RCCadet
Kaliboy: There is absolutely nothing wrong with using what works best under certain conditions. I strongly believe Takeoff tires are the best but use other brands. I happen to have two TC3's. I also have considered the XXX-S. Time will tell wether I get one in the spring.
I am trying to hang with the multi-regional champs and if I don't do well with the T1 this weekend I am going to the XXX-S for asphalt next year.
Kaliboy: There is absolutely nothing wrong with using what works best under certain conditions. I strongly believe Takeoff tires are the best but use other brands. I happen to have two TC3's. I also have considered the XXX-S. Time will tell wether I get one in the spring.
I am trying to hang with the multi-regional champs and if I don't do well with the T1 this weekend I am going to the XXX-S for asphalt next year.
#285
Steering Block Blues
I experienced an odd break today. The arm on the steering block ripped clean off and leaving the remaining part still intact on the suspension balls. The break was large enough for the bearing in the steering block to pass though the opening.
I lost nothing in the process but it was alarming to see the wheel (still attached to the hub and CV), racing off another direction. I was sure that I lost the one-way outdrive but it stayed in place.
Time to pack for tomorrows race!
L8r.
I lost nothing in the process but it was alarming to see the wheel (still attached to the hub and CV), racing off another direction. I was sure that I lost the one-way outdrive but it stayed in place.
Time to pack for tomorrows race!
L8r.