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Old 02-27-2003, 11:27 AM   #2656
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Yes I have. Did the same. Move the ball stud to the inner hole on the hubs. This helps reduce the steering throw. Using S9450 servo with HRS receiver & 3PK.
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Old 02-28-2003, 07:47 AM   #2657
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Anyone using front one-way ? If so, do you shim the front outdrives to keep 'em from moving back and forth ? I dont have my manual close by, but as long as I remember, there is no instruction to put shims in the outdrives when using one-way.

Last edited by redsand; 02-28-2003 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 02-28-2003, 08:48 AM   #2658
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Quote:
Originally posted by redsand
Anyone using front one-way ? If so, do you shim the front outdrives to keep 'em from moving back and forth ? I dont have my manual close by, but as long as I remember, there is no instruction to put shims in the outdrives when using one-way.
Mo need to shim the outdrives...you can place a piece of foam, o-rings, or even fuel tubing inside the outdrives to keep it in place. That would make contact with the CVD.
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Old 02-28-2003, 08:51 AM   #2659
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Stick a used O ring into the drive cups and this will sort out the problem
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Old 02-28-2003, 11:02 AM   #2660
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Thumbs up EVO2, WOW!

Just got my EVO2 yesterday and began assembly. I was wondering if anyone has a good setup for carpet or is the stock setup good? I also have the C-Hubs for it as well. i finally understand what all the buzz is about with this car. My XXX-S will never be looked at the same way again.

Also due you run your batteries in a saddle pack config or all along one side?

Thanks,
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Old 02-28-2003, 12:13 PM   #2661
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRASH
Just got my EVO2 yesterday and began assembly. I was wondering if anyone has a good setup for carpet or is the stock setup good? I also have the C-Hubs for it as well. i finally understand what all the buzz is about with this car. My XXX-S will never be looked at the same way again.

Also due you run your batteries in a saddle pack config or all along one side?

Thanks,
Run your car in the box stock setup, you will find a good benchmark to begin your testing, and at the same time get up to the car. As for the batteries, run saddles. You will find that if you go with six cells on one side, the car will not be balanced and it will turn better one direction than the other. Furthermore, in the saddlepack configuration, the car will still be balanced regardless of the type of batteries you put in there. Some batteries are heavier than others. Good luck.
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Old 02-28-2003, 11:15 PM   #2662
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Is anyone else surprized the quality of the shocks is horrible? For $320 and another $30 for the aluminum bodies, they ought to fall together, be bullet proof and be smooth as silk, but these things just seem amatuer compared to the rest of the car, or even compared to the shocks on my FT TC3.

Any tips on building them so they don't leak?
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Old 02-28-2003, 11:52 PM   #2663
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I don't know where you have been, but tc3 shock are not any better.

1. They have no way of building an airfree shock. To build a tc3 shock, you fill the body, you fill the cap, then to put together as fast as you can. what a joke.

2. the plastic caps leak. so even after 1 run, you have shocks that no longer extend to full travel.

3. the aluminum shock caps have horrible tollerences. i went through 3 set to find 4 that even thread on completely.

4. if you do not get the aluminum shock caps to thread complete, they leak.

5. after you do all that, they still leak from where the shafts extend. enough to require a rebuild after 1 race day.

In contrast, the first set of xray shock I built are not squishy. Maybe from screwing with tc3 shocks for soo long, i got good at building shocks.

fill the body with fuild to the brim. let all the air out. put the bladders in. set the shock cap on the body. unscrew the cap to make sure you have the cap on level. then screw the caps on fully. oil will leak out as you cap the shock. check to make sure they are not squish and extend fully. that is about it.

i do think that the composite bodies will leak, just because of the nature of plastic on metal.

Last edited by theisgroup; 02-28-2003 at 11:54 PM.
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Old 03-01-2003, 12:06 AM   #2664
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Quote:
Any tips on building them so they don't leak?
Almost every type of shock iv'e ever built, losi, associated, tamyia, xray and others will leak a slight amount of oil via the shaft for lube.
The best way iv'e found to assemble xray shocks is to get some
associated green slime shock lube and pack the lower shock
end cap and O ring with the grease and also if u have threaded
shock shafts (like the T1) or keyed shafts, you'll find if you've ever
stripped the adjustable upper and lower 4 hole piston assembly, try and 1st put a drop of shock oil on the upper piston before
assembly and this should prevent stripping of this part.
And it doesn't hurt to clean the entire shock with motor spray
after fully building the shocks, it will make it easier to spot leaks if there is no oil around the bodies.
Oh, and it might pay to inspect the rubber bladder to see if its
either damaged or incorrecty installed.

I hope this helps.
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Old 03-01-2003, 02:23 AM   #2665
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Old 03-01-2003, 02:25 AM   #2666
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got it, but no electronics in it. i am going to try and bring it out tomorrow and hopefully get it going.
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Old 03-01-2003, 02:26 AM   #2667
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Sweet, well I will see you there. I just got home so I need to get some sleep and sober up! Cya

BTW, I want to buy a front C-hub arm from you.
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Old 03-01-2003, 05:15 AM   #2668
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adz - I agree with your method of building the shock, except the shaft should be polished. Use Mothers aluminum/magneseum polish per the directions. Works great on the shafts. My shocks do NOT leak.
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Old 03-01-2003, 08:34 AM   #2669
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Quote:
Originally posted by HauntedMyst
Is anyone else surprized the quality of the shocks is horrible? For $320 and another $30 for the aluminum bodies, they ought to fall together, be bullet proof and be smooth as silk, but these things just seem amatuer compared to the rest of the car, or even compared to the shocks on my FT TC3.

Any tips on building them so they don't leak?
IMO the Serpent /X-ray shocks are one of the gems of the RC World if built properly. Below is the URL to a tech area in our web site on building the Serpent shock. These tips apply to the x-ray also.


http://www.ashfordhobby.com/tech02.htm

I still think that our article in the tech support is still pretty much right on. The obvious exception are the keyed shock shafts. I no longer suggest the use of the SER 909408 "Alloy Shock seals (4 pcs)" I have used the GS Silicon shock blatters and I have used Serpent's SER 6431 shock blatters super glued to the SER 909403 shock tops. As best as I know the current Team practice is to super glue the SER 6431's to the SER 909403 shock tops. Serpent has reformulated the SER 6361 this year and I'm back to using those. I do however lower the sealing ring on the SER 909403 shock top to 1/2 it's height to get less rebound pressure on the blatter. If you are going to super glue the SER 6361 blatters to the SER 909403 shock tops you will need to make sure that both are very clean, I scrape the shock tops to remove the mold release and give the super glue something to bond to.
Before fitting the springs cut the excess paint free between the end coils.

While Serpent shocks and X-ray shocks look the same they are different. The shock body to piston clearance is different between the two and the X-Ray uses a small oring under the shock cap to control seal crush and the Serpent shocks don't. I would not suggest mixing parts between the two brands.

I also don't reccommend the alloy shock bodies unless you hit a bounch of stuff and break the nylon shock bodies. The nylon bodies produce a smoother shock and a lighter shock also.

Hope this helps. I owe you one form the painting tips I got from your article.

Last edited by rpoage; 03-01-2003 at 08:37 AM.
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Old 03-01-2003, 01:08 PM   #2670
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ive just built my shocks for the first time on the EVO 2 and they feel great, using the instructions in the manual. I did however, after reading here, purchase the GS bladders and used them instead of the ones in the kit.
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