Xray T1

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Old 10-14-2002, 03:38 AM
  #1936  
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Originally posted by stormperson
has anyone else had problems with arms breaking on their c-hub fronts? i have broken 3 arms (two of them on the same corner). i realize that i am running mod and stuff breaks, but the design of the arms seems very poor, its in geometry and how it would respond to a crash.
Stormperson:

I've owned (and own actually) a FT TC3, an XXX-S and a Evo2, firstly, say that this weekend I raced with the Evo2 and was 'very crash resistant' compared to the other two.

I slammed two times a wall and If I drove the TC3 should be DNF, on the Xray, survived thanks to its better plastics.

So, don't get me wrong I love the TC3 and the Evo2, the XXX-S is another story, didn't liked from the first pack.

BTW: I needed to buy one rear Evo2 A-arm and were unavailable, so I bought the aluminium ones (due to an horrible t-bone on a previous race)... very bad move boys! the droop screws and the pillowballs 'self adjusted' on each heat, better to have some gummy threadlock (tamiya green treadlock) for them or stick with the plastic ones.
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Old 10-14-2002, 06:18 AM
  #1937  
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i have run tc3's for the past few years, and broken stuff as well. and yes i have survied some nasty crashes with the xray, but i feel there are two things that would help the xray even more:

1)the bigger front bumper isnt big enough. it only is as wide as the inside of the wheels. it should extent to the outside, or else it really isnt doing much.

2)the design of the arms, they should of made it more of a triangle like with the pivot ball arms, instead of a triangle and then have the end part sticking out.

i understand completely that when you hit stuff you will break, but i feel without the design flaws, it could of been better.

so anyone have any ideas on how to beef up the arms?
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Old 10-14-2002, 07:24 AM
  #1938  
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stormperson, i think its a roar rule that any part of the bumper cannot be protruding out past the wheels. correct me if im wrong though. that would be nice to have ive already torn the lower right front pivot ball out while practicing my first time with it. im no pro but im not just some hack driver either that slams boards every lap. but o well.
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Old 10-14-2002, 08:43 AM
  #1939  
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Well Here is what I have found works and what I am going to try next.

Current setup for Very High Traction carpet!
Old school T1 Chassis and Top plate with Evo2 parts and c hub conversion f/r running brushless:
Front:
Tires:
Jaco Orange 28mm (57MM dia) 1/2 TQ Blue traction compound
Camber:
2 degree
Castor:
6 degrees (3 deg hub/ 3deg anti dive)
Toe out:
1 degree
Shocks:
Xray Red with 50 wt and 1 hole open
Shock Position:
Middle Top / Outer bottom
Upper Link:
Midde Lower Hole on shock tower
Droop:
set to so springs have no preload
Ride Hieght:
3.5 MM

Rear:
Tires:
Jaco Purple 28mm (57MM dia) Full TQ Blue traction compound
Camber:
2 degree
3deg anti squat
Toe In:
2 degree
Shocks:
Xray Purple with 50 wt and 3 hole open
Shock Position:
Middle Top / Middle bottom
Upper Link:
Stock
Droop:
set to so springs have no preload
Ride Hieght:
4.0 MM
Wheel base:
Long

Notes: The center one way is fully locked. Rear diff is set tight for traction out of the corner. (Brushless torque breaks the car loose other wise). Car is very stable and easy to drive. It just needs bit more turn in .. Will be trying a 1.5 MM rear sway bar to correct.

Jeff Choban can confirm the car is workin! Yeah baby!
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Old 10-14-2002, 12:39 PM
  #1940  
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spaz- i dont go to that many big races, and my club really doesnt care. and when i do race at the triple crown race, they shouldnt mind either.

they could of extended it so it goes half way across the tire, if they are goig to make a big bupmer, they should make a big bumper is all i am saying.

also has anyone come up with a guage for measuring the front anti roll bar angle? since this seems like an important thing to measure, and not eyeballing the equalness of right and left bars as well.
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Old 10-14-2002, 12:47 PM
  #1941  
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lol, I didn't drive it or really watch it that much, but sounded like it's workin good!

I'm getting mine to work alot better now. The rear of the car just doesn't want to rotate, but I'm not done trying stuff yet!!! I ran quite a few low 15sec laps (a couple 15.1's, maybe a 15.0, lots of .2-.3's) and was consistant mid 15seconds. If I'm there next week, I'll break into the 14's... same time Kurshner breaks into the 13's. lol
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Old 10-14-2002, 01:38 PM
  #1942  
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ya id be in favor of a wider front bumper, guys who need it to be narrower to stay within the rules could just cut it down. it would be easier to take off the material then add some.
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Old 10-14-2002, 01:40 PM
  #1943  
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Default Yeah Jeff I was in the mid 15's

Well I can tell you that it is beteer then it wasa several weeks ago thatis for sure!
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Old 10-14-2002, 04:23 PM
  #1944  
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What shock oil are you guys using? I am going over the carpet setups since I am starting the indoor season for the first time with my EVO after having upgraded from a Pro 3 and using Trinity shock oil. Can I assume that if no brand is mentioned that it is Xray brand?
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Old 10-14-2002, 04:26 PM
  #1945  
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Trinity oil here.
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Old 10-14-2002, 05:01 PM
  #1946  
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i use trinity oil as well.
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Old 10-14-2002, 06:20 PM
  #1947  
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amen on the trin oil
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Old 10-14-2002, 08:04 PM
  #1948  
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trinity....

I have a minor tweak to my wicked setup....caster is now a 3mm clip in the front and a 2+1 in the back...I went from steady 8.4's to steady 7.4's and my fastest lap was a 7.14 I had the chance to race against one of the fastest xray's I've ever seen before tonight. The track was really tight so I could keep him ahead of me but once I made a mistake he pulled me really bad. He was running steady 7.14's That thing was wicked fast. He had another xray running mid 7's on rubber tires!

Impulse racer I don't want to say that my setup is great or anything like that but with what I did last night the car had a ton of turn in and could carry alot of speed through the corners. I had to durn the dr down a lil to get the car to stop being so twitchy but after that the car is seriously dialed!


I love my xray. I just feel more comfortable driving this thing over my tc3...

Isaac yes I run a 02 wrb wrx. with the oem kit, kaminari wing, legacy b4 wheels(jdm baby) full sti/spt suspension kit. I'm waiting on a full custom 3" turbo back with one 3" high flow cat. my exhasut is going to be as straight as possible. I thought the quality of the txs piece is laking, and that is why I'm going custom. But by this time next year I hope to be pushing a fmic stage4 utec map with a built engine and tranny and brake work And yes I have no life I own a subie. sorry for a lil ot bit.
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Old 10-14-2002, 08:10 PM
  #1949  
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Originally posted by dtm
Can you take a picture with the upper deck removed? it may be easier to spot any problems......

I have come across two cases of this but on both instances it was due to wrong assembly or changing the original part. ie. using a different (larger) ballend.......and different spacing of the servo and ball on the servo arm......
tanks guys fo the help,but I called serpent.And ralph the xray dude say that the front bulk heads are in back wards .He say "That is not the only time that some one has called with this problem".So I'm not the only one who has done this in US.
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Old 10-14-2002, 08:18 PM
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I use Losi or Associated oil. No real reason why, that's just what I own.

My Mod Foam setup for high bite ozite.

Front:
-Tires: Jaco Plaid, Corally "Jack The Gripper" inside 1/2
-Springs: Serpent Yellow (short)
-Shocks: Serpent short (original T1), 50wt Losi, 1 hole open, middle top mount, outer bottom mount.
-Sway Bar: Softest-horizontal
-Anti Dive: 3*
-Caster: 1mm shim BEHIND the arm
-Camber: 2*
-Accentric upper arm mount: Rear up, front middle
-Toe: 0*
-Diff:7/8 turn from full tight

Rear:
-Tires: Jaco Purple, Corally "Jack The Gripper" full tire
-Springs: Serpent Yellow (long)
-Shocks: Serpent long (original T1), 40wt Associated, 2 holes open, middle top mount, outer bottom mount.
-Sway Bar: None
-Anti Squat: 3*
-Wheel Base:2mm shim in FRONT of the arm
-Camber: 1.5*
-Camber Link: Stock inner mount, out and down hub mount
-Toe: 1.25* each wheel
-Diff:7/8-1 turn from full tight

-Center pully: Fully locked
-Chassis: 'old' T1
-Top Deck: 'old' T1 (stiffest)

-Motor: Reedy Ti 9x2
-Gearing:34/124
-Tires Size: 57.5mm


The car is very easy to drive, but has a bit of a push. A couple people have told me that when they stand by the first turn, it looks like my car bottoms out, so I'm going to try Serpent blue springs, and go up 10wt oil front and rear.
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