Xray T1
#1861
Originally posted by rcfiend
Has anyone played around with the track width adjustments Front/Rear. If so what were your ressults and how did you make your measurements, was it wheels on or off.
Has anyone played around with the track width adjustments Front/Rear. If so what were your ressults and how did you make your measurements, was it wheels on or off.
I've found that narrowing the front of the car up to 183mm is more docile on those twisty tracks. The rear is well planted and calm.
Next week I'll test the C-hubs with blue springs to see if any improvements.
#1862
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Originally Quoted By Corse-r With pillowball suspension I've realized that with the stock measurements the track width you get is 186mm wide, last week I tried some setup for a much smaller and twisty track (see the link provided) http://usuarios.lycos.es/craem2/galeria.htm
#1863
Originally posted by Hobbytown Racer
There's a groove on the outside of the outdrive that I think is were everyone else is drilling. If do right, you can end up with a good ball diff or locked diff. by installing or removing the pins. The dust covers hold the pins in place.
There's a groove on the outside of the outdrive that I think is were everyone else is drilling. If do right, you can end up with a good ball diff or locked diff. by installing or removing the pins. The dust covers hold the pins in place.
Just make sure the pin is long enough to touch the dust covers on each end and it will 'stay' a locked diff.
If you go back to the diff and try to lock it again, you will have to fish for the specific diff tension from which you drilled with. Be sure to tighten the diff so that it won;t easily move while drilling. Do have a fresh drill bit when making this mod because it shouldn't require a lot of force to pass a steel bit through the alu diff. If you have the SS diff I would not try this mod unles you have an excellent drill press and bits, more importantly, finding a very good way to hold the diff still is crucial.
Last edited by RCCadet; 10-08-2002 at 03:11 PM.
#1865
Originally posted by dtm
A picture tells a thousand words!
Looks like the holes are different size too......you would "have" to use the old plastic insert with the old upper deck!
A picture tells a thousand words!
Looks like the holes are different size too......you would "have" to use the old plastic insert with the old upper deck!
Stack the EVO top deck over the original T1 top deck lining up the screw holes for the bulk heads. Clamp them in place once you are confident with the alignment. Now view the amount of material to be removed with the original top deck. Use a 1/8 grinding drill bit and use your EVO top deck as your template.
Should take only two or three minutes tops if working with a high RPM drill or dremel. Wear a face/eye protection and a mask to protect you from the particles of graphite dust. Do not fight the rotation of the bit and do not appy a lot of force. Let the grinding bit (Dremel #83702) do the work.
#1867
Originally posted by rcfiend
Corse-R, your link doesn't work. I'll try the changes tonight, do you make your width measurements with the wheels on or off?
Corse-R, your link doesn't work. I'll try the changes tonight, do you make your width measurements with the wheels on or off?
#1868
Originally posted by RCCadet
That's a sweet track Corse-R.
That's a sweet track Corse-R.
For not being off-topic, anyone has tried with sucess the combination of C-hubs front with pillowball rears (I have a problem with the rear C-hubs and spare isn't available) if yes, which setup you used? Plan to race with Sorex 24 and 28.
#1869
Corse-R: I prefer that setup. C-Hub front, pillow ball rear. Slightly less steering that C-Hub, but more to my liking. I understand Ralph Burch (Serpent USA) prefers this setup. Buster told me that.
#1870
I'm curious about the 1 belt car. It wouldn't take much to make a convertion kit. What flip the rear diff around and change the lay shaft and right bulkhead.
#1871
Hobbytown Racer: Conversion on the shock to the ultra flex tower worked with 2 3mm nuts and 3x10mm cap screw. 3mm spacer would be better. When losening the rear shocks the nuts spin free.
#1872
Try to get the end of the screw to stick out just enough to thread the ball of the shock end on. It may require using a different length screw to get it just right. I wish I had a digital camera. I could post a pick of mine. I used 1 3mm lock nut on the top and 1 3mm non-locking nut on the bottom. For the bottom, just thread the long set-screw in far enough to allow the nut to give the right amount of length to screw the shock ball-end on. The 2 cars are different. I tried this on the T1 and had trouble but the Evo worked fine. The only reason I did this is, the top of the shock was binding on the tower without spacing it out some. You'll see my car soon enough when you make you way in to Mimi's.
#1873
Thanks Greg. I will try the locknut approach when I convert back. Right now with C-Hub rear I use T1 setup on lower holes. errr broke LCA in a race last week on my pillow ball
#1874
What rollout are you guys running with 19 turn motors... about a 27?
#1875
cannot help you on that Mike, still running stock.
John
John