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Old 10-08-2002, 12:07 PM   #1861
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcfiend
Has anyone played around with the track width adjustments Front/Rear. If so what were your ressults and how did you make your measurements, was it wheels on or off.
With pillowball suspension I've realized that with the stock measurements the track width you get is 186mm wide, last week I tried some setup for a much smaller and twisty track (see the link provided) http://<a href="http://usuarios.lyco...aleria.htm</a>

I've found that narrowing the front of the car up to 183mm is more docile on those twisty tracks. The rear is well planted and calm.

Next week I'll test the C-hubs with blue springs to see if any improvements.
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Old 10-08-2002, 01:39 PM   #1862
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Quote:
Originally Quoted By Corse-r With pillowball suspension I've realized that with the stock measurements the track width you get is 186mm wide, last week I tried some setup for a much smaller and twisty track (see the link provided) http://usuarios.lycos.es/craem2/galeria.htm
Corse-R, your link doesn't work. I'll try the changes tonight, do you make your width measurements with the wheels on or off?
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Old 10-08-2002, 01:48 PM   #1863
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hobbytown Racer
There's a groove on the outside of the outdrive that I think is were everyone else is drilling. If do right, you can end up with a good ball diff or locked diff. by installing or removing the pins. The dust covers hold the pins in place.
That is where I placed my 1/8 pin, in the small groove near the base of the out drive. The performance is awesome. I race a bit more concrete than asphalt and the car pulls really hard through the turn.

Just make sure the pin is long enough to touch the dust covers on each end and it will 'stay' a locked diff.

If you go back to the diff and try to lock it again, you will have to fish for the specific diff tension from which you drilled with. Be sure to tighten the diff so that it won;t easily move while drilling. Do have a fresh drill bit when making this mod because it shouldn't require a lot of force to pass a steel bit through the alu diff. If you have the SS diff I would not try this mod unles you have an excellent drill press and bits, more importantly, finding a very good way to hold the diff still is crucial.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 10-08-2002 at 04:11 PM.
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Old 10-08-2002, 01:53 PM   #1864
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Ya i would love to have the one belt option over the C-hubs
XRAY u know what ur next mission is now
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Old 10-08-2002, 02:00 PM   #1865
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtm
A picture tells a thousand words!

Looks like the holes are different size too......you would "have" to use the old plastic insert with the old upper deck!
Yeah thanks for the pics....now pay close attention.....

Stack the EVO top deck over the original T1 top deck lining up the screw holes for the bulk heads. Clamp them in place once you are confident with the alignment. Now view the amount of material to be removed with the original top deck. Use a 1/8 grinding drill bit and use your EVO top deck as your template.

Should take only two or three minutes tops if working with a high RPM drill or dremel. Wear a face/eye protection and a mask to protect you from the particles of graphite dust. Do not fight the rotation of the bit and do not appy a lot of force. Let the grinding bit (Dremel #83702) do the work.
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Old 10-08-2002, 02:01 PM   #1866
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That's a sweet track Corse-R.
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Old 10-09-2002, 12:06 AM   #1867
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcfiend
Corse-R, your link doesn't work. I'll try the changes tonight, do you make your width measurements with the wheels on or off?
I make all measurements with the wheels I'll use for racing. Some wheels state that are 0 offset, but I got catched by a mere millimeter and lost my heat for this.
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Old 10-09-2002, 12:12 AM   #1868
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet
That's a sweet track Corse-R.
Yep: but has a little 'big' problem: traction isn't much on this asphalt (mainly due to the trees and the dust blown for the wind. For the rest is a great track, the Off-Road track is all covered and this winter we plan to change the surface (now is real OFF-ROAD, maybe SX... )

For not being off-topic, anyone has tried with sucess the combination of C-hubs front with pillowball rears (I have a problem with the rear C-hubs and spare isn't available) if yes, which setup you used? Plan to race with Sorex 24 and 28.
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Old 10-09-2002, 04:19 AM   #1869
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Corse-R: I prefer that setup. C-Hub front, pillow ball rear. Slightly less steering that C-Hub, but more to my liking. I understand Ralph Burch (Serpent USA) prefers this setup. Buster told me that.
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Old 10-09-2002, 07:35 AM   #1870
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I'm curious about the 1 belt car. It wouldn't take much to make a convertion kit. What flip the rear diff around and change the lay shaft and right bulkhead.
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Old 10-09-2002, 08:37 AM   #1871
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Hobbytown Racer: Conversion on the shock to the ultra flex tower worked with 2 3mm nuts and 3x10mm cap screw. 3mm spacer would be better. When losening the rear shocks the nuts spin free.
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Old 10-09-2002, 09:01 AM   #1872
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Try to get the end of the screw to stick out just enough to thread the ball of the shock end on. It may require using a different length screw to get it just right. I wish I had a digital camera. I could post a pick of mine. I used 1 3mm lock nut on the top and 1 3mm non-locking nut on the bottom. For the bottom, just thread the long set-screw in far enough to allow the nut to give the right amount of length to screw the shock ball-end on. The 2 cars are different. I tried this on the T1 and had trouble but the Evo worked fine. The only reason I did this is, the top of the shock was binding on the tower without spacing it out some. You'll see my car soon enough when you make you way in to Mimi's.
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Old 10-09-2002, 09:54 AM   #1873
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Thanks Greg. I will try the locknut approach when I convert back. Right now with C-Hub rear I use T1 setup on lower holes. errr broke LCA in a race last week on my pillow ball
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Old 10-09-2002, 09:55 AM   #1874
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What rollout are you guys running with 19 turn motors... about a 27?
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Old 10-09-2002, 09:57 AM   #1875
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cannot help you on that Mike, still running stock.
John
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