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Old 09-22-2002, 10:16 PM   #1711
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Saturday night I raced Stock Sedan and Mod Sedan, both foam. Stock went well, my car was fast but I couldn't put in a good clean run. In Mod, I was chasing the setup all night. 8x2 Ti hauled ass down the straights, but I couldn't get through the infield. For the main I softened up the car pretty drastically, trying to get some grip. Seemed good for the 1/2 lap I made, then I got hit in the side, cells slid into each other, shorted out, vented, blah, blah, etc, etc...

Anyways, I've got 2 questions...
1-Anybody know a good way to prevent packs from shorting out in crashes? I was thinking of puting a peice of electrical tape on the ends of the cells, but if anyone knows a more 'trick' way, please tell...

2-Anybody have a good setup for Mod w/ foams on ozite??? Track is very big and technical. I got my car to work okay today (practice day), but the whole car loses grip in the turns. Not pushing, a tiny bit loose but not bad at all, but the whole car washes out.
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Old 09-23-2002, 12:50 AM   #1712
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i assume you mean the cells sit loosely in the battery hold downs? this happens with panasonic cells, you need to either put some dense foam under the battery strap, or gring a fraction of the bottom of the aluminium battery posts, the second way is much safer, although only take a tiny bit off,
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Old 09-23-2002, 04:42 AM   #1713
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JeffC: The packs slamming together has happened to me twice now. Lost 2 real good HV's that way. I tried the little foam, but not impressed with that. I did the electrical tape mod. Does not look the best, but the 3 layers will prevent contact and the short.
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Old 09-23-2002, 06:14 AM   #1714
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Shorting the packs? I have not had that happen to me, yet.....is this a result of having filed the slots?

This trip around (Evo2), I only removed the sharp edge the slots had and the Panasonics stay put. That is with out the foam under the battery bar.

I am about to cut out a new battery bar for six cell and it will be wide enough to cut XRAY into it. I will have enough stock left over after I cut out a few upper decks.
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Old 09-23-2002, 07:09 AM   #1715
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RCCadet: I did not file my slots. I just took a hard hit on the side into the boards. Batts jumped out and touched
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Old 09-23-2002, 02:02 PM   #1716
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I always make sure that my packs are tightened down. This was a 3300 pack, seemed to be held in good. I just got hit on the left side and it shoved the pack over. Impacts are pretty harsh in mod... It sucks losing a $70 pack (killer numbers, 410sec, 1.15v, 21IR....) but at least my esc still works fine, and the chassis didn't seem to warp any from the heat.

Oh well, first time for everything, I'm going to put a couple layers of electrical tape over the battery bars that could touch each other so this won't happen again.
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Old 09-23-2002, 02:04 PM   #1717
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Are any of you guys coming up to the OctoberFast race in Brooklyn Park, MN? Be nice to meet some of you guys if you are coming.
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Old 09-23-2002, 02:12 PM   #1718
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I've not held a 3300 in my hand....is it a larger cell than the HV's?

Would something with more grip like an old touring tire or bike inner-tube work instead of the foam provided?

Can't make the race up there......I hope attend a carpet race in Shreveport.
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Old 09-23-2002, 03:10 PM   #1719
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Yes I will be making the Oktoberfast race jeff,I'm leaving the xray at home though and i have a good setup for u in the xray for mod foam.
FRONT
plaid tires
camber -2 degrees
2nd hardest xray spring(spring kit)
8o wt oil 2 holes open
6 degrees caster
lowest grip camber links on chassis part
toe neutral
ride height 5mm
droop 5.5

REAR
purple tires
camber -1 degrees
4th hardest xray spring(spring kit)
70 wt oil 2 holes open(possible 60 wt)
no caster(lol duh)
squat 2 degrees
highest grip camber links on chassis part
toe 1 degree
wheelbase 254 mm
ride height 4.5 mm
droop 4.5
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Old 09-23-2002, 06:21 PM   #1720
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Anybody know the rates of the Serpent springs that the T1 originally used? I'm using yellow front (short), orange rear (long), but want to get the Xray spring kit. I need to know the rates of what springs I'm using now, to know which Xray springs to start with though. So if anybody knows the rates for the Blue, Yellow, White, Orange, Purple (hard to soft) springs, please share.
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Old 09-23-2002, 07:23 PM   #1721
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Yes here are the first set of springs in the new kit(soft to hard)

Yellow-14 lbs
White-17.5
Blue-22.5
Violet-28
Purple-33
Red-38

Second optional set
Blue-Green---15
light blue--20
dark blue--25
light purple--30
light red-35
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Last edited by StephenSobottka; 09-24-2002 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 09-24-2002, 10:19 AM   #1722
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Quote:
Originally posted by RC Nitro
RCCadet: I did not file my slots. I just took a hard hit on the side into the boards. Batts jumped out and touched
File the slots, use foam on the battery brace.....the battery will not jump out!
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Old 09-24-2002, 10:20 AM   #1723
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet
I've not held a 3300 in my hand....is it a larger cell than the HV's?

Would something with more grip like an old touring tire or bike inner-tube work instead of the foam provided?

Can't make the race up there......I hope attend a carpet race in Shreveport.
3300 are slightly shorter than the HV but about the same diameter.
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Old 09-24-2002, 10:27 AM   #1724
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Quote:
Originally posted by JeffC
I always make sure that my packs are tightened down. This was a 3300 pack, seemed to be held in good. I just got hit on the left side and it shoved the pack over. Impacts are pretty harsh in mod... It sucks losing a $70 pack (killer numbers, 410sec, 1.15v, 21IR....) but at least my esc still works fine, and the chassis didn't seem to warp any from the heat.

Oh well, first time for everything, I'm going to put a couple layers of electrical tape over the battery bars that could touch each other so this won't happen again.
If you don't file the slots you only have about 0.5mm of chassis holding the cell in the slot preventing it sliding out. If your battery bar is too tight up against the batteries your chassis will tweak...file the slots...you can get around at least 1-1.5mm of chassis preventing your batteries jumping out!

Use shims to adjust the height of the battery hold downs so you do not get tweak. When I first built my Xray, I filed the slots, then put the battery hold downs onto the chassis (just chassis plate and battery hold downs). Stick foam onto the bars, put the largest batteries I have onto the chassis, tighten everything up and leave overnight.

The foam will compress, then I use shims to adjust the height of the battery hold downs until I got no tweak........you will be surprised how much stress an overtighten battery hold down bar will put into the chassis!
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Old 09-24-2002, 01:50 PM   #1725
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I filed the battery slots on both my cars. I have the foam on the battery hold-downs on both my cars. I don't overtighten the battery hold-downs, or anything on the car, I just get it good and snug. I've never had a battery move on me at all during a race (not since I ran Yokomos at least, and I fixed that problem) I'm really not sure why the pack moved. This was probably the one time when I screwed up and forgot to double check everything, maybe the pack wasn't even in the slots all the way... I do like the idea of shimming the battery hold-downs though, something I'll definately do.

Stephen, thanks for the spring rates, but those aren't the springs I'm looking for.

If anybody knows the rates of the springs the XRay used when it first came out, please share them. I know the order goes from (soft-hard) purple, orange, white, yellow, blue, I might be missing a spring in there, but if anybody knows the rates of the ORIGINAL springs, I'd really appreciate it.
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