5LikesLOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc
01-26-2010, 07:15 PM
#226
Track Report- 70 F
I was able to add hot water, today, tuesday, to the Sugar water treated track that I treated last Friday. Great traction was restored. I am hoping for the same tomorrow. Fast laps were 1.1 seconds faster for me with the extra traction over the last race when the track was untreated.
SJ racing Premounts
I tried out some new premounts from SJRacing. These are Sorex tires on Jayco prism rims. What a great combination that is. I used Sorex 36R tires. I already liked the wheels on the Jayco prism foams. The insert was firm enough to give me great traction. Better than the Sorex 40's on Speedmind wheels which I ran Sunday in similar condition. Cornering traction was better as evidenced by new scratches on my highly beveled motor. I will put a picture up tomorrow. If I am lucky Jeremy will be tinkering with the computer tomorrow and I will get lap times.
Sway bars.
The medium high traction gave me the opportunity to try sway bars. I ran a second pack with heavy bars front and back. I gained steering precision on the chicane but could definitely tell a loss of overall traction and a change in the understeer oversteer balance toward oversteer. I can't really tolerate oversteer.
I readjusted and went with a light bar on front and medium light on rear. The front bar may be home made as I had to trim it for length and rebend it a bit. Anyway this is reverse tuning due to the locked diff. The car drove great. I had better precision on steering. I could really attack the chicane hard now. My oversteer understeer balance was restored. I made no other changes.
Tekin RX8 will thermal without fan
The fan on the RX8 quit. The car thermalled at 3 minutes. The speed control is not invunerable in this heavy duty use. It still needs a good fan. All of the lights were blinking, on the control, indicating a too hot condition even though the case was only 120F or so. I replaced the fan.
I was able to add hot water, today, tuesday, to the Sugar water treated track that I treated last Friday. Great traction was restored. I am hoping for the same tomorrow. Fast laps were 1.1 seconds faster for me with the extra traction over the last race when the track was untreated.
SJ racing Premounts
I tried out some new premounts from SJRacing. These are Sorex tires on Jayco prism rims. What a great combination that is. I used Sorex 36R tires. I already liked the wheels on the Jayco prism foams. The insert was firm enough to give me great traction. Better than the Sorex 40's on Speedmind wheels which I ran Sunday in similar condition. Cornering traction was better as evidenced by new scratches on my highly beveled motor. I will put a picture up tomorrow. If I am lucky Jeremy will be tinkering with the computer tomorrow and I will get lap times.
Sway bars.
The medium high traction gave me the opportunity to try sway bars. I ran a second pack with heavy bars front and back. I gained steering precision on the chicane but could definitely tell a loss of overall traction and a change in the understeer oversteer balance toward oversteer. I can't really tolerate oversteer.
I readjusted and went with a light bar on front and medium light on rear. The front bar may be home made as I had to trim it for length and rebend it a bit. Anyway this is reverse tuning due to the locked diff. The car drove great. I had better precision on steering. I could really attack the chicane hard now. My oversteer understeer balance was restored. I made no other changes.
Tekin RX8 will thermal without fan
The fan on the RX8 quit. The car thermalled at 3 minutes. The speed control is not invunerable in this heavy duty use. It still needs a good fan. All of the lights were blinking, on the control, indicating a too hot condition even though the case was only 120F or so. I replaced the fan.
Last edited by John Stranahan; 01-31-2010 at 08:56 AM.
01-28-2010, 10:03 PM
#227
what mamba to run in touring
what mamba to run in touring
i am in a dilemma, i have a mamba 5700 that i was going to put in my xxx-s on a 2 s battery, well would a 7700 on the same battery be better. whats your guy's opinions?...... battery in question is a zippy 2s 40c and what gearing?
i am in a dilemma, i have a mamba 5700 that i was going to put in my xxx-s on a 2 s battery, well would a 7700 on the same battery be better. whats your guy's opinions?...... battery in question is a zippy 2s 40c and what gearing?
01-28-2010, 10:12 PM
#228
Tech Addict
5700 is more user friendly than the 7700. use the 7700 when you wanna play/impress, but the 5700 is better for the "restricted" confines of a track.
01-30-2010, 06:41 PM
#229
Race Report 35F air temp
I treated the track again to medium-high traction with sugar water, but because of the cold weather we had tire selection problems. I tried the new SJ racing Sorex 36. No traction at all. Next CS 32's dry better but pushing horribly. I was worried about shredding a treated tire.
Next RP 30's. These were worse. The CS 32's really improved with traction compound for 10 minutes and also after scuffing in from storage.
Traction became very good by heat 1.
I won the first of two heats and was qualified first
I broke an arm in the second heat but was running my personal best laps on this layout late in the heat.
I ran the race fast lap in the main. Robert who is usually faster was present with a Team Magic Car. I was thrilled at being so close to the leader lap time wise. I did not run my best battery in the main and it dumped a few seconds early. 6:20 seconds of runtime (380 seconds) on a battery that discharged 895 seconds at 20 A. This gives an average amp draw of 47 amps during the race! wow.
(895s x 20A)/380s = 47A.
The thunderpower batteries are holding up very well. I believe I have about 40 runs on two of them. One still has more than 5000 mA-h. The second slightly less at 4972 mA-h. I have a newer one with only about 15 runs for the main but it was not charged on time. 5172 mA-h. These packs are nominal 5000 mA-h packs. Now there is a new 5300 mA-h 45 C pack available. I will probably get one of these to have two packs with good capacity available for racing and then two pretty good used packs for practice only. I am very pleased with Thunderpower Packs. No bloating at the high discharge level in the heat.
I was 1 second faster than last race. My best ever on the layout. So what was new. I added the little sway bars for improved steering precision. I ran more brakes (69%) so that I could run what I will call the "stock car line" very tight to the markers. I was chasing fast competition with a hooked up car. And my car is just really fast on the straights. I can pass on the straight with ease. Very much like a stock motored XXX-S on a dusty asphalt track is faster (I talked about this in the intro). Something about the belt getting a good air cushion at speed. The Tekin RX8 helps a lot of course. My fast laps means it is no slouch in the corners either compared to top of the line newer cars with good drivers.
The Serpent with rear gear diff may be a little faster than the Losi, it just does not hold up to the power we use.
I treated the track again to medium-high traction with sugar water, but because of the cold weather we had tire selection problems. I tried the new SJ racing Sorex 36. No traction at all. Next CS 32's dry better but pushing horribly. I was worried about shredding a treated tire.
Next RP 30's. These were worse. The CS 32's really improved with traction compound for 10 minutes and also after scuffing in from storage.
Traction became very good by heat 1.
I won the first of two heats and was qualified first
I broke an arm in the second heat but was running my personal best laps on this layout late in the heat.
I ran the race fast lap in the main. Robert who is usually faster was present with a Team Magic Car. I was thrilled at being so close to the leader lap time wise. I did not run my best battery in the main and it dumped a few seconds early. 6:20 seconds of runtime (380 seconds) on a battery that discharged 895 seconds at 20 A. This gives an average amp draw of 47 amps during the race! wow.
(895s x 20A)/380s = 47A.
The thunderpower batteries are holding up very well. I believe I have about 40 runs on two of them. One still has more than 5000 mA-h. The second slightly less at 4972 mA-h. I have a newer one with only about 15 runs for the main but it was not charged on time. 5172 mA-h. These packs are nominal 5000 mA-h packs. Now there is a new 5300 mA-h 45 C pack available. I will probably get one of these to have two packs with good capacity available for racing and then two pretty good used packs for practice only. I am very pleased with Thunderpower Packs. No bloating at the high discharge level in the heat.
I was 1 second faster than last race. My best ever on the layout. So what was new. I added the little sway bars for improved steering precision. I ran more brakes (69%) so that I could run what I will call the "stock car line" very tight to the markers. I was chasing fast competition with a hooked up car. And my car is just really fast on the straights. I can pass on the straight with ease. Very much like a stock motored XXX-S on a dusty asphalt track is faster (I talked about this in the intro). Something about the belt getting a good air cushion at speed. The Tekin RX8 helps a lot of course. My fast laps means it is no slouch in the corners either compared to top of the line newer cars with good drivers.
The Serpent with rear gear diff may be a little faster than the Losi, it just does not hold up to the power we use.
01-31-2010, 04:14 AM
#230
It's good too see that testing is goin well and the xxxs is still upto the challenge
I'm dyin too hit the track again an go for a run again (been a few months
)
hopefully soon I'll be out n about again so I'll be able go for a run an try a few of the things you've mentioned above - never really experimented with a rear sway bar
I'm dyin too hit the track again an go for a run again (been a few months
)hopefully soon I'll be out n about again so I'll be able go for a run an try a few of the things you've mentioned above - never really experimented with a rear sway bar
01-31-2010, 05:50 AM
#231
Thanks for the continuing effort John. I'm back to using my trusty XXX-S as our club has returned to VTA racing. Even if we didnt ..I'd still go back to it. The newer car I tried is great but has nothing on the xxx-s and still can't compare when it comes to available information and simplicity.
Got a question though...Do you think another thread specifically geared for stock motor ( anything in the 17.5 to 25.5 range ) use would be a good idea ? Would you be willing to contribute ?
I'm thinking of creating a xxx-s ( and others like TC-3/4 ) resource page on our club website where any specifics from the forum thread could be archived. Setups, build info, troubleshhooting, etc. A page where all the usable info from the thread could be found in a organised manner.
Thoughts?
Got a question though...Do you think another thread specifically geared for stock motor ( anything in the 17.5 to 25.5 range ) use would be a good idea ? Would you be willing to contribute ?
I'm thinking of creating a xxx-s ( and others like TC-3/4 ) resource page on our club website where any specifics from the forum thread could be archived. Setups, build info, troubleshhooting, etc. A page where all the usable info from the thread could be found in a organised manner.
Thoughts?
01-31-2010, 07:44 AM
#232
I'm thinking of creating a xxx-s ( and others like TC-3/4 ) resource page on our club website where any specifics from the forum thread could be archived. Setups, build info, troubleshhooting, etc. A page where all the usable info from the thread could be found in a organised manner.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
01-31-2010, 08:01 AM
#233
If you pop them all the time it can only get worse, unfortunately....
BTW measuring the links is not a good way to adjust your geometry, on a camber link an identical measurement can give you more tha 2degrees of difference once installed. to me the camber gauge or setup station is a must-have, especially the second since the camber gauge gives pretty inaccurate reading due to the wheel never being really true.
For you ball cup problem : buy new ones (sorry), thread at least the first half of every single ball cup (hold them with big pliers without making scratches /damaging them) with the turnbuckles and /or a thread cutter, take them apart after carefully noting which are the ones with the backwards thread, then put some soap on the turnbuckles, then reassemble them, then only mount them on the car.
It is a PITA to say the least, it will take you 2 hours, but that's the only way, sorry.
Still a gain of time on the long run, compared to your technique...
BTW measuring the links is not a good way to adjust your geometry, on a camber link an identical measurement can give you more tha 2degrees of difference once installed. to me the camber gauge or setup station is a must-have, especially the second since the camber gauge gives pretty inaccurate reading due to the wheel never being really true.
For you ball cup problem : buy new ones (sorry), thread at least the first half of every single ball cup (hold them with big pliers without making scratches /damaging them) with the turnbuckles and /or a thread cutter, take them apart after carefully noting which are the ones with the backwards thread, then put some soap on the turnbuckles, then reassemble them, then only mount them on the car.
It is a PITA to say the least, it will take you 2 hours, but that's the only way, sorry.
Still a gain of time on the long run, compared to your technique...
01-31-2010, 08:46 AM
#234
New thread?
I don't mind a new thread. I used to have a very popular, Losi XXX-S tips and tricks for stock, thread. Like this thread, there was less chat and more tech than the regular Losi XXX-S thread. Your thread will have to be a little different than the Losi XXX-S thread to survive.
As an example, I have incorporated a couple of Web pages on www.Stranahan-RC.com
that organizes my Web information on the Gen X 10 and Battle Axe. Those pages were found and were popular over in Germany. Have at.
We have talked about matters pertaining to stock here in this thread. I don't mind that at all. Occasionaly I would have something to contribute. My experience leans more toward rubber tires, though.
Speaking of tires, Sweep Racing.
I am getting a couple Promotional Sets of Sweep Racing Premounts to test outdoors on the XXX-S. The tires are at a very good price. Expect some pictures and test reports later on.
Rod Ends
I expect the rod end problem may be the need for a different lube. I have been using a grease type of product. Silicone diff lube seems to work. Associated Black Grease (moly) will probably work better. I use a large crescent wrench (10-12 inch) to put them on so the plastic is not marred. It provides the broad flat area and stiffness neccesary to grip the hex or the flat of the ball itself if needed. After a long while the balls on the car will be worn smaller. Check with your dial caliper to see. .002 inch of wear is a lot.
I don't mind a new thread. I used to have a very popular, Losi XXX-S tips and tricks for stock, thread. Like this thread, there was less chat and more tech than the regular Losi XXX-S thread. Your thread will have to be a little different than the Losi XXX-S thread to survive.
As an example, I have incorporated a couple of Web pages on www.Stranahan-RC.com
that organizes my Web information on the Gen X 10 and Battle Axe. Those pages were found and were popular over in Germany. Have at.
We have talked about matters pertaining to stock here in this thread. I don't mind that at all. Occasionaly I would have something to contribute. My experience leans more toward rubber tires, though.
Speaking of tires, Sweep Racing.
I am getting a couple Promotional Sets of Sweep Racing Premounts to test outdoors on the XXX-S. The tires are at a very good price. Expect some pictures and test reports later on.
Rod Ends
I expect the rod end problem may be the need for a different lube. I have been using a grease type of product. Silicone diff lube seems to work. Associated Black Grease (moly) will probably work better. I use a large crescent wrench (10-12 inch) to put them on so the plastic is not marred. It provides the broad flat area and stiffness neccesary to grip the hex or the flat of the ball itself if needed. After a long while the balls on the car will be worn smaller. Check with your dial caliper to see. .002 inch of wear is a lot.
01-31-2010, 09:21 AM
#235
Is the "stock" thread buried in the pages of RCTECH ?? If so, I'll dig it up.
BTW...I've recently been running a Schumacher car and have always thought their "ball grippa" cups were some of the best. Just put some on my XXXS. They work great, are slimmer than RPM's and harder composition so twisting adjustments are easier. Tight when new but great after first threading.
BTW...I've recently been running a Schumacher car and have always thought their "ball grippa" cups were some of the best. Just put some on my XXXS. They work great, are slimmer than RPM's and harder composition so twisting adjustments are easier. Tight when new but great after first threading.
01-31-2010, 04:24 PM
#238
Yep, I'm guessing that thread is gone John. I searched all 20 pages of history for threads having "xxxs" in the title.
I'll think on the best way to title the new one. Any thoughts on..... " XXX-S Tips and Talk for stock classes "
I'll think on the best way to title the new one. Any thoughts on..... " XXX-S Tips and Talk for stock classes "
01-31-2010, 08:26 PM
#240
The new "stock class" thread is up and running. John, I'll be going through this thread to make sure any information that a stock driver can use will be available. I hope you'll make a point to post a note if you think the stock drivers can benefit from something you figured out. I'm sure many of us will go back and forth between threads to get hold of anything interesting. God knows your engineering experience alone is worth a read....even if it takes 3 more pages before blockheads like me understand it ! 