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LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc

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LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc

Old 01-13-2010, 02:19 PM
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Try xxx-4 belt with xxx-s hd tensioner. The belt is wider and stronger, you can make it looser without skipping.
Did you think about cutting belt cover over steering rack to give more flex? This place would be easy to seal with some rubber tape and should give more flex.
I just killed one xxx-s g+ chassis, if one thinks it is undestroyable, I have to say I did, it is not. Mine lost rear left end with part od diff housing and left arm pivots...broke completely
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Old 01-13-2010, 02:38 PM
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Default Spur adapter for Losi XXX-S G+

I received this PRS spur adapter today and have no idea how to install it. Looks too simple, but I cannot seem to figure out how to install it. The first image is the adapter sans screws, second is PRS 108 Spur that I want to attach, and lastly is the 128 Losi spur with drive gear that is to be removed. I don't understand how the spur adapter attaches to the 108 spur and where is the drive gear for the belt.
Attached Thumbnails LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-imgp2570.jpg   LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-imgp2571.jpg   LOSI XXX-S, Tips and Tricks, Open Mod, etc-imgp2569.jpg  
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Old 01-13-2010, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rj5620 View Post
I received this PRS spur adapter today and have no idea how to install it. Looks too simple, but I cannot seem to figure out how to install it. The first image is the adapter sans screws, second is PRS 108 Spur that I want to attach, and lastly is the 128 Losi spur with drive gear that is to be removed. I don't understand how the spur adapter attaches to the 108 spur and where is the drive gear for the belt.
because thats a adaptor for the JRXS pro and type-R, not for the XXX-S, BTW Losi does make a own 108T spur gear.
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Old 01-13-2010, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
because thats a adaptor for the JRXS pro and type-R, not for the XXX-S, BTW Losi does make a own 108T spur gear.
Thanks,

Yes seems so, I can't seem to find a Losi 108 though. If I use a Losi 90T 48 pitch, do I have to use 48 pitch pinion or are there 48 and 64 pitch pinions?
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rj5620 View Post
Thanks,

Yes seems so, I can't seem to find a Losi 108 though. If I use a Losi 90T 48 pitch, do I have to use 48 pitch pinion or are there 48 and 64 pitch pinions?
yes a 48 pitch spur needs a 48pitch pinion. same for the 64p of cos.
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Old 01-13-2010, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by da_John_wee View Post
yes a 48 pitch spur needs a 48pitch pinion. same for the 64p of cos.
Great. In 2003 I bought a pinion holder that has marks like 19, 20 etc. I have about 10 pinions. The problem is I don't know if they are 48 or 64 pitch. How does one tell the difference of a 48 or 64 pitch pinion? The pinions have engravings on them telling that it is a 21, but do you have to just sense more teeth on a 64 pitch?


Thanks
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by rj5620 View Post
Great. In 2003 I bought a pinion holder that has marks like 19, 20 etc. I have about 10 pinions. The problem is I don't know if they are 48 or 64 pitch. How does one tell the difference of a 48 or 64 pitch pinion? The pinions have engravings on them telling that it is a 21, but do you have to just sense more teeth on a 64 pitch?


Thanks
I think those 20t pinions are in 48P. not many ppl saw 20T pinions in64p before.
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Old 01-13-2010, 07:05 PM
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duplicated
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Old 01-13-2010, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kajman View Post
Try xxx-4 belt with xxx-s hd tensioner. The belt is wider and stronger, you can make it looser without skipping.
Did you think about cutting belt cover over steering rack to give more flex? This place would be easy to seal with some rubber tape and should give more flex.
Well I have had the yellow extra flex belt in my car. It had no problem until the brushless system was installed. I will try switching back to the brushed motor to find out if the motor is causing it. However, I do not beleive it will. The teeth skipped even while going in very slow reverse with the brushless. This never happened before.
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Old 01-13-2010, 09:33 PM
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I had the least skipping with the green belt snug.

I had a XXXS stiffzell chassis that I cut the perimeter beam off and left only enough plastic on the left side to hold the speed control and receiver on little pads attached only to the center. No improvement really. It was very light though. I also ran without the lower plate that completes the box beam. Steering precision went away. You can get too flexible. I have not tried cutting the top of the center box beam since it is so easy to open the bottom.

I thought I would post this here if any of you guys want a nice road trip to a deluxe track.

Nitro and Electric, Texas Shootout
May 21-23
Sponsored by Team X-ray

This is a preliminary announcement. Race flier to come. Apparently Team X-ray liked what they saw at our combined Nitro and Electric Grand Prix. They have decided to sponsor their own version on May 21-23. Look for exiting racing in all the top 1/10 Nitro, 1/8 Nitro, and 1/10 Electric Classes. Both Ralph Burch and Paul Lemeiux Plan to attend.

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The race name and details may change a little.

Come and get yourself one of these.

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Old 01-17-2010, 08:20 PM
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Race Report
The XXXS shined again this weekend during the club race. It won all 3 heats and the main without any breakage or slowdown. I improved my best lap of recent times by .3 seconds during a chase that lasted only 3-4 laps. I had the fast lap of the race. After that the competition faded. I confess that the one fast professional driver guy moved on to another class.

I had added thick sway bars to the Losi in anticipation of high traction. We were promised 24 lbs of sugar. It was a little damp in the morning so the sugar was not applied. I removed the sway bars before the first heat. I used Sorex 40R tires in about 60 degree weather. The LRP X12 and Teking RX8 worked flawlessly.
A tekin RSPro on a 4.5 in a competitors car continued to thermal.
X-ray T2s broke plastic outdrives
aTamiya shed a front belt

We had a good number of cars finish the main though. 8 were in the class.
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Old 01-21-2010, 05:23 PM
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Default Ticking noise located in the rear right hub area.

I have had an annoying ticking sound come from my rear right hub area come at occational times. It normally appears when I take a sharp turn and create stress on that side. It often happens that the tire starts to wobble also. If I take off the wheel and place it back on straight It normally continues to tick every rotation of the wheel. I have taken the bearings out and inspected everything.
Has this problem ever occured before? Is there a solution? Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-21-2010, 05:48 PM
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Check the drive pin on the CVD make sure it is not poking out from the cup a little too much on one end.
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Old 01-21-2010, 06:57 PM
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LRP X12 3.5
I recently reported a motor failure of this very fine and powerful 3.5. The cause was a rear bearing failure. The prevention is to put some oil on the rear bearing. I spent some time with the can today to see if there was an easy way to oil it and to remove the rear bearing outer race. I found two ways to oil it. One use a flashlight and a needle oiler. You can get a drop of oil to fall on the bearing by inserting the oiling needle into the rear vent.

A more positive way (you can see the oil going on) is to take off the rear cover. The sensor assembly is actually easy to remove. This will expose the inner part of the bearing for oiling. The smallest rectangle in the picture controls the angle of the sensor or the timing so it is easy to put back in with unchanged timing.

With the sensor out of place, I was able to tap out the rear race using a small screw driver in the bearing race of the outer race to tap it out.

My critizism was premature. It is easy enough to oil this rear bearing. In heavy duty use do it at least every 15-20 runs. The motor can stay in the car. Oil the pinion side bearing more often.
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Old 01-26-2010, 01:27 PM
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'LOSI XXX-S G+ Graphite 1/10 Touring Sedan (VTA) Package'

Guys, if you know anyone looking, I have a VTA over on the F/S thread. Still has a lot of other parts with it and could be run in a variety of classes.

Thanks
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