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Old 01-09-2011, 06:20 PM   #1351
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
Why in 1S racing do you need the RPM set points so close. I kind of understand in oval as that is what they do, but 1S road racing seems like you would want a smoother power on. I guess my point is why even having dynamic timing if all you want is to have it all come on at once. Another suggestion as you can do this with the kinetic and you can't with the tekin is set the boost to the lowest delay possible and then the RPM levels wouldn't matter as much.
Well for us at Indy we have a >= 90' strait and then a lot of short ones and 180's with a few sweepers and chicanes. it all changes week to week but the strait is always there. Our carpet has very good traction and most times it is treated to bring up the traction quicker. I have had very little luck using the boost no matter what setting but just using the timing ramp and the boost off I have had very good outcomes. I just have to take a lot of chances going into the sweeper at the end of the strait by trying to out brake the other esc's that have gotten the jump on me down the strait. I can't say anything about oval because I haven't raced it since I used the Cyclone esc and 1/12 17.5 seems that every little mm on the track during 8 minutes is huge. I wish things were they way they were before boosting esc's but there are few that would agree with me and I would imagine no one outside of sportsman oval or VTA would want to go back. If you run non boosted you have to be really good with a 13.5 or use a 10.5 to keep up with boosted 17.5 on a road course. I was trying to promote the idea of around here to run non boosted esc's and 13.5's with COT bodies in 1/12 on road. One to make it simple again and two, I am growing tired of the doorstop bodies. I am getting that way with the WGT too, I really don't like my Sophia body and would like to run exactly what I see a LeMans race. Now look you got me off the subject.

The new software looks nice.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:31 PM   #1352
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I have gotten it to work for me but one issue that I have stated before time and time again is the Timing RPM set point and Max timing RPM set point. The Novalink still will not let you set it below 2000RPM and the dialog to the right says that you can set it as low as 1150 but you can not and now the max will not let you go below 5500 and before at least it was 4500. I have been very competitive with the v1.3 but I would do better against the other cars if I could get to at least 1150rpm timing set point. The guys here that run the Tekin's are starting their at 750-850 RPMs and they get a jump on me for about 1/3 the way down the straits causing me to really run it hard in the corner and preying I have the preferred line so we don't stack them up at mid corner. Both my WGT 13.5 and 1/12 17.5 exhibit the same thing and both are using Ballistic motors.

Please if possible make an adjustment to allow for a lower Timing RPM set point at least like the 1150 that the dialog claims and let the max timing set point go back to 4500 or maybe 4000 rpms.
There are two reasons for not supporting less than 2000 rpm.
We did our original testing, we found that applying timing at low rpm has very little effect on the rpm ( Novak timing software) and the down side is it reduced torque a bunch so.
So we decided to improve on high end rpm and that is where one needs all the timing. One can trade rpm for torque or torque for rpm, but you can not increase both at the same time for a given motor.

As our software is very sensitive to rpm information I went for very fine resolution ( ~ 0.8micro second ) so a 16 bit number can only manage 52428uS about 1150 RPM before a 16 number will overflow. But due some software overhead and safety margin I made the limit 2000 RPM. I could have used a 32 bit number but that slows things down when the motor is turning at 60000RPM.

We have tested the software on the bench at well over 75000RPM and it works real good.

Lots of our tester are finding out that keeping the motor mechanical timing low ~ 20 degree or less gives them the torque they need at the low and letting the speed controller dynamic timing handle the higher rpm. This setup makes the motor and esc run cooler and the system efficiency. Our timing algorithm is very different from other manufacture speed control so can not apply the same settings to ours.

We need at least 2500 RPM between start and end trip points for the dynamic timing algorithm to work properly.

Hope this helps.
Adnan
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:44 PM   #1353
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Yes! I don't know what's wrong with the computer at my LHS, but I brought my car home and hooked 'er up to my Linux desktop running XP in VirtualBox and NovaLink 1.4 is working!

Now I just have to figure out why the computer at my LHS won't work. NovaLink 1.3 was working on their computer so there should be a way to get NovaLink 1.4 working. Any ideas?

Hey, when you figure it out let me know, I'm having the same problem, with the same message prompts. I have uninstalled everything and deleted all previous .rdd files. Connection test confirms continuity, but when trying to connect thru the Novalink the leds indicate looking for Novalink. Yet it flashes all leds to indicate its talking to the speed control.
1.3 worked with no issues and even when rolling back from 1.4 to 1.3 everything worked, the problem started after running the 1.4 Novalink updater. (Why is there no backout for this device???)

Did a upper right hand fix, then ran a firmware updater from the Novalink menu, this time when it fired up it actually said 1.4, I don't know how many times I ran this previously, and it would always read 1.3. Now it runs and connects with no issues. I think you should make sure all previous .rdd files are deleted, and then load the outaloada 1.4.rdd file and make sure its in your Novalink folder. The run the updater until you get it to read 1.4, hope that helps you out.

I have to say, this was a pretty frustrating couple of nights getting this to work.


And I would have liked to seen a lower start rpm limit as well, or at least have a better understanding on how what we have can be made to work better. In 2s it doesn't seem to be as much of a handycap, but I think 1s brings up some other variables, like I don't think you'll spool a 17.5 to 70k rpm no matter what timing you have, so if you don't have the big rpm because of power limitation that only leaves you with bottom end. BUT I'm willing to learn something new so teach us more ESCman. Thanks
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:50 PM   #1354
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There are two reasons for not supporting less than 2000 rpm.
We did our original testing, we found that applying timing at low rpm has very little effect on the rpm ( Novak timing software) and the down side is it reduced torque a bunch so.
So we decided to improve on high end rpm and that is where one needs all the timing. One can trade rpm for torque or torque for rpm, but you can not increase both at the same time for a given motor.

As our software is very sensitive to rpm information I went for very fine resolution ( ~ 0.8micro second ) so a 16 bit number can only manage 52428uS about 1150 RPM before a 16 number will overflow. But due some software overhead and safety margin I made the limit 2000 RPM. I could have used a 32 bit number but that slows things down when the motor is turning at 60000RPMS. We have tested the software on the bench at well over 75000RPM and it works real good.

Lots of our tester are finding out that keeping the motor mechanical timing low ~ 20 degree or less gives them the torque they need at the low and letting the speed controller dynamic timing handle the higher rpm. This setup makes the motor and esc run cooler and the system efficiency. Our timing algorithm is very different from other manufacture speed control so can not apply the same settings to ours.

We need at least 2500 RPM between start and end trip points for the dynamic timing algorithm to work properly.

Hope this helps.
Adnan

Yes that helps me understand that but I run the Ballistic at 15* and the Boost off but use the Dynamic Timing set at 55* with a ramp of 2000-5000 and it has worked for me but I am missing something out of corner while on the throttle. The thing rockets past the others one a dead start but during IFMAR style qualifying I lose the advantage to get out front and hold them off. I have taken a lot of time tyring settings w/boost and having it off just works better for me.

Could you explain exactly how the boost works? Does the esc go through the ramp up depending on the selected set points and then go full boost. What I am asking is if I have the Dynamic set at 2000 start and finish at 5000, will the boost kick on after this or if I have the delay set a 100ms and I am at full throttle could/would the full boost come at 3000 rpms. Does it go through your set point then the boost delay and then full boost or after the full throttle delay and full boost no matter what the rpm is at?
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:55 PM   #1355
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having not ran my buggy with the K 2s i haven't bothered to do the 1.4 update, until now.

what I did was completely remove the novak folder from the program files, removed everything novak from my docs, went into the control panel and removed the file that was in there. emptied the recycle bin, restarted the computer. went to the novak site and downloaded the full version of 1.4, opened the driver file and installed, opened the install file and installed, opened the setup file and installed.

closed everything, clicked on the novalink icon on the desktop, connected the esc. bada bing, pretty new screen, with a notes page (very cool). hit the update button. esc updated.

worked perfect thanks for the update.

question, do i need to download the 1s update or is it already in this 1.4 update? thanks
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:55 PM   #1356
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
having not ran my buggy with the K 2s i haven't bothered to do the 1.4 update, until now.

what I did was completely remove the novak folder from the program files, removed everything novak from my docs, went into the control panel and removed the file that was in there. emptied the recycle bin, restarted the computer. went to the novak site and downloaded the full version of 1.4, opened the driver file and installed, opened the install file and installed, opened the setup file and installed.

closed everything, clicked on the novalink icon on the desktop, connected the esc. bada bing, pretty new screen, with a notes page (very cool). hit the update button. esc updated.

worked perfect thanks for the update.

question, do i need to download the 1s update or is it already in this 1.4 update? thanks
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:14 PM   #1357
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
having not ran my buggy with the K 2s i haven't bothered to do the 1.4 update, until now.

what I did was completely remove the novak folder from the program files, removed everything novak from my docs, went into the control panel and removed the file that was in there. emptied the recycle bin, restarted the computer. went to the novak site and downloaded the full version of 1.4, opened the driver file and installed, opened the install file and installed, opened the setup file and installed.

closed everything, clicked on the novalink icon on the desktop, connected the esc. bada bing, pretty new screen, with a notes page (very cool). hit the update button. esc updated.

worked perfect thanks for the update.

question, do i need to download the 1s update or is it already in this 1.4 update? thanks
If you mean that you have a K1S/1.4 beta, and you want to use the 1.4 Novalink to talk to it, I think you have to do a update. I don't think if you have a 1.3.rdd and 1.4.rdd in your Novalink folder, the Novalink is forward/backward workable.

****Another thing to watch out for is after doing the Kinetic update, power cycle your speed control thru the Novalink switch harness. Mine didn't take until I did this power cycle.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:20 PM   #1358
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Thanks ESCMAN the firmware is great.

Only question now is why the timing curve button is not working. I know you have to have more than 20 degrees but no matter what amount of timing is selected the timing curve window does not open.
After you put in the 20 you have to hit the "enter" from the comp keyboard, it will fire up the timing curve then.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:33 PM   #1359
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Originally Posted by Johnny Wishbone View Post
If you mean that you have a K1S/1.4 beta, and you want to use the 1.4 Novalink to talk to it, I think you have to do a update. I don't think if you have a 1.3.rdd and 1.4.rdd in your Novalink folder, the Novalink is forward/backward workable.

****Another thing to watch out for is after doing the Kinetic update, power cycle your speed control thru the Novalink switch harness. Mine didn't take until I did this power cycle.
" power cycle" please explain
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:44 PM   #1360
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Originally Posted by skypilot View Post
what I did was completely remove the novak folder from the program files, removed everything novak from my docs, went into the control panel and removed the file that was in there. emptied the recycle bin, restarted the computer. went to the novak site and downloaded the full version of 1.4, opened the driver file and installed, opened the install file and installed, opened the setup file and installed.
Agreed, I actually went one step further and did a program/file search in all folders and programs looking for the .rdd files, wanted to make sure all the old ones where gone.
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:48 PM   #1361
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" power cycle" please explain
If you built one of the switch harnesses for the Novalink that runs between the Kinetic and the Novalink, just power the harness dn/up. OR after the upgrade remove the Novalink (its supplying the power) wire and then hook it back up. *****No external power, everything still coming from the Novalink.*****
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:06 PM   #1362
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Adnan, hoping you can explain a issue I'm having with my K1S and the brakes. I can make adjustments on the drag brake and the initial brake to the point that as soon as I let of the throttle, when the car is on the stand, the wheels will come to a dead stop, with no coast at all. And I can hit the brakes to actually jump the car forward on the stand. BUT on the track it still feels like it has very little brakes, almost coasts thru like its freewheeling.

I've done multiple adjustments, and re-calibrations, but this issue continues. Any suggestions?

Thanks
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Old 01-09-2011, 10:13 PM   #1363
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If you built one of the switch harnesses for the Novalink that runs between the Kinetic and the Novalink, just power the harness dn/up. OR after the upgrade remove the Novalink (its supplying the power) wire and then hook it back up. *****No external power, everything still coming from the Novalink.*****
oh ok, yea i put a switch in my harness. its so much easier now.
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:09 AM   #1364
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Adnan, hoping you can explain a issue I'm having with my K1S and the brakes. I can make adjustments on the drag brake and the initial brake to the point that as soon as I let of the throttle, when the car is on the stand, the wheels will come to a dead stop, with no coast at all. And I can hit the brakes to actually jump the car forward on the stand. BUT on the track it still feels like it has very little brakes, almost coasts thru like its freewheeling.

I've done multiple adjustments, and re-calibrations, but this issue continues. Any suggestions?

Thanks
i have the same issue with the K2s. Less-so with some motors than others,but still an issue. No issue with a different-brand ESC. I don't understand it either...?
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Old 01-10-2011, 08:34 AM   #1365
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Adnan, hoping you can explain a issue I'm having with my K1S and the brakes. I can make adjustments on the drag brake and the initial brake to the point that as soon as I let of the throttle, when the car is on the stand, the wheels will come to a dead stop, with no coast at all. And I can hit the brakes to actually jump the car forward on the stand. BUT on the track it still feels like it has very little brakes, almost coasts thru like its freewheeling.

I've done multiple adjustments, and re-calibrations, but this issue continues. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Try changing your dead band setting to max and see if that any difference.
It seem your transmitter may not be returning to Neutral.
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