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Old 12-29-2010, 10:15 AM   #1246
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Originally Posted by cpt morgan29 View Post
I was running my Novak kinetic yesterday at the track in a xxx-sct. The truck stopped but the servo still worked. When I got to the truck, smoke was pouring out from under the body. When I got the lid off, and the fire blown out, the capacitor had fought on fire. Does anybody know what could have caused it to burst into flames?
Was it secured to the chassis with tape or something else? If not a hard hit can cause the capacitor to give up the magic smoke. . I have also seen them just fail. I know a couple guys running the older GTB speed controls and they had this problem occasionally. Not really sure of the root cause though.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:00 PM   #1247
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I was not updating firmware, just changing timing settings. Weirdly I was still able to update the firmware even with the 5 lights coming on and going off. This didn't fix the problem though.

Yes the fan was disconnected.

I live in the UK so calling is a bit tricky. Can you get someone to email me a procedure to try and get the ESC going?[email protected]
I have the same dreaded problem. I was only turning on the reverse feature and after I updated the profile it didn't work. I've successfully updated the firmware multiple times but it didn't fix the problem.
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:08 PM   #1248
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I have the same dreaded problem. I was only turning on the reverse feature and after I updated the profile it didn't work. I've successfully updated the firmware multiple times but it didn't fix the problem.
Whats the problem?
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Old 12-29-2010, 12:47 PM   #1249
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I updated a profile setting and once it completed my speed control doesn't work anymore. I can't connect to the esc via novalink, and the one touch setup doesn't respond. Firmware updates don't fix it. I've done a continuity check on all wires to make sure they were good. I have the power switched novalink harness. The Novak connection utility verifies a good usb connection, but it doesn't sense the ESC. When I first did a profile change I didn't disconnect the battery though. In the instructions it didn't mention needing to do it, but I read on this thread that you should do it.

I'm leaning towards a dead brain board based on the symptoms.
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Old 12-29-2010, 01:02 PM   #1250
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I updated a profile setting and once it completed my speed control doesn't work anymore. I can't connect to the esc via novalink, and the one touch setup doesn't respond. Firmware updates don't fix it. I've done a continuity check on all wires to make sure they were good. I have the power switched novalink harness. The Novak connection utility verifies a good usb connection, but it doesn't sense the ESC. When I first did a profile change I didn't disconnect the battery though. In the instructions it didn't mention needing to do it, but I read on this thread that you should do it.

I'm leaning towards a dead brain board based on the symptoms.
I think your correct. If you don't have link to the speed control, chances are brain board problem. I haven't made that mistake yet (YET! lol) I would contact Novak CS department and give them your info for a brain board replacement. It has been posted here about the power disconnect first, not sure how they could fail safe this to prevent others from doing the same thing.
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Old 12-29-2010, 02:18 PM   #1251
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Originally Posted by macdude View Post
Was it secured to the chassis with tape or something else? If not a hard hit can cause the capacitor to give up the magic smoke. . I have also seen them just fail. I know a couple guys running the older GTB speed controls and they had this problem occasionally. Not really sure of the root cause though.

I believe it may have something to do with the on/off switch. The wires coming out of the switch are completely melted
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Old 12-29-2010, 03:48 PM   #1252
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I believe it may have something to do with the on/off switch. The wires coming out of the switch are completely melted
Usually the cap is on the power input wires and the on/off is off the circuit board. I'm guessing the blown cap did enough board damage to cause more melting down the line to the switch harness. Did any of this stuff short out prior to the meltdown, like the cap wires crossing the battery plug? Did you try to de-solder the cap and replace the on/off switch to see of the speed control still worked?

Maybe you got lucky and all you need is a switch harness and another cap and your back in action.

Worst case is contact Novak Customer service and take advantage of their fix/repair/replace policy.
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Old 12-29-2010, 04:06 PM   #1253
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Usually the cap is on the power input wires and the on/off is off the circuit board. I'm guessing the blown cap did enough board damage to cause more melting down the line to the switch harness. Did any of this stuff short out prior to the meltdown, like the cap wires crossing the battery plug? Did you try to de-solder the cap and replace the on/off switch to see of the speed control still worked?

Maybe you got lucky and all you need is a switch harness and another cap and your back in action.

Worst case is contact Novak Customer service and take advantage of their fix/repair/replace policy.
It is still under warranty so I am sending it in. I have not de-soldered anything on the speed controller. I know that the battery did not short with anything. I like to secure the plug because I worry about it coming unplugged during a race. I posted this up because I didn't know if anybody else has experienced this.
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Old 12-30-2010, 12:28 PM   #1254
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The tech rep I've been talking too won't send out a brain board and recommends I send the damn thing in. I really don't want to spend the time and money to get this thing ready to ship out and have to wait at least two weeks.
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Old 12-30-2010, 08:22 PM   #1255
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I know what you are talking about. I just sent in a new 13.5 that went bad even though it never got above 150* and then was issued a refurb 13.5 and it was DOA. I had to use my old 13.5 SS and luckily I got TQ with it but now I am out $20.00 for shipping the same problem twice in less than 2.5 weeks. I have only run it in my WGT 1 cell car too.

Last night I made the mistake of leaving the battery connected while I reprogrammed the esc due to being in a hurry between rounds but I didn't notice any problems afterwords with it and got TQ and the main win in WGT. I can only suspect that I use the 2s Kinetic with a 1 cell lipo and it wasn't enough juice to hurt it.

I don't know about the 1s version vs. the 2s version but I sure do like the 2s one in my 1/12 and WGT cars and I can't see no reason to use the 1s version since you have to use a receiver battery anyway plus I could change the wires and throw it in a SC or buggy in the summer months and not have to have 5 new Kinetics. I probably wouldn't replace the dirt cars GTB's anyway though, they still win races for me and I cant see a huge difference on the dirt between them with with all the traction loss and occasional carnage..
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Old 12-31-2010, 08:26 AM   #1256
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Can anyone elaborate on whether the older SS motors are better, stronger or more durable than the Ballistic series motors. I like the rebuildable part or being able to change coil packs to switch classes but the only time I have had a problem with the old style is when my rear wheel came off my Intimidator on the straight and I over revved the 5.5 and it shattered the rotor but that's it. I have had two 13.5's recently that were both turds. Well the first one was ok for a couple race days but the refurb wasn't and I am questioning whether all the motors really get checked before they leave. I saw article in Car Action a while back about Novak but my recent problems with them has left me with questions.

On a good note I don't have any problems with the Kinetic other than the occasional hiccup with the Novalink not reading on the first go or saying something is out of range but I can deal with that because when set up right this thing hauls the mail on carpet against the Tekins, Diamonds, and SPassions. I don't know if there is a performance difference between the 2.4 radios and FM radios because the manual says something about them but I use the KO Helios with the fast response setting and I really like it. I stayed this way because I have seen a wireless PA system or the wireless security camera system mess with the 2.4. At least after the track shut those off the few guys that had the issue didn't anymore. It might be coincidence but it was weird and mine worked fine so I stuck with it.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:27 AM   #1257
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Originally Posted by ThrottleKing View Post
Can anyone elaborate on whether the older SS motors are better, stronger or more durable than the Ballistic series motors. I like the rebuildable part or being able to change coil packs to switch classes but the only time I have had a problem with the old style is when my rear wheel came off my Intimidator on the straight and I over revved the 5.5 and it shattered the rotor but that's it. I have had two 13.5's recently that were both turds. .
I have never had any issues with the older SS motors. Except that the sensor cable is directly connected to the sensor board. So to replace it is a little more expensive. The SS motors are rebuildable too. Just about every ballistic motor I have had has eventually had some issue. Not really sure why but from a reliability stand point the older ss cans are hard to beat. They work very well with the advanced speed controls too.
As for the ballistic motors they are great but, I have had 3 front bearing seize up on my ballistic motors. On carpet I have had one rotor fail, and one stator fail. The 3 year old ss 17.5 I have in my SC10 just keeps going. Every time I think it is time to retire it, one of my new motors gives up the ghost and in goes the SS motor.
Not to sound too negative, this is still better than the brushed motors, but I kind of feel like their is a problem with the bearings. Not sure if Novak just got a batch of poorly manufactured bearings, but I have never seen bearing fail so fast. And when I say seize I mean stop the truck on the down side of a jump. I thought that I got a rock stuck in the wheel until I picked it up and the whole gear train would not move. Removed the pinion and to my surprise the motor would not turn. This happened twice outside. So I just don't run the ballistic off road anymore. Inside the bearings still get gritty, but I haven't had a failure like outside.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:34 AM   #1258
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The tech rep I've been talking too won't send out a brain board and recommends I send the damn thing in. I really don't want to spend the time and money to get this thing ready to ship out and have to wait at least two weeks.
Without knowing all of the details, perhaps replacing the BB will not solve your particular problem. Whenever the issue can be taken care of by replacing BBs, we send one out with a postage paid return envelope.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:36 AM   #1259
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Originally Posted by ThrottleKing View Post
I know what you are talking about. I just sent in a new 13.5 that went bad even though it never got above 150* and then was issued a refurb 13.5 and it was DOA. I had to use my old 13.5 SS and luckily I got TQ with it but now I am out $20.00 for shipping the same problem twice in less than 2.5 weeks. I have only run it in my WGT 1 cell car too.
PM me all of your shipping and contact info; I can take care of this snafu for you.
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Old 12-31-2010, 11:40 AM   #1260
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Most of our sub-assemblies are used in both the SS Pros and Ballistics: stators, rotors, bearings, etc.

Perhaps, the Ballistics vacuum up more dust than the SS Pros--leading to more problems?
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