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Old 10-03-2010, 05:30 PM   #931
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Default Kinetic help

Guys,

I would like to begin this post on a positive note and am seeking sound advice. I strapped in the Kinetic with Ballistic 8.5 in a Durango DEX410R. The thing was so good it gave me the giggles. Right out of the box--fast and smooth. Coupled with Orion 4600mAh 45C saddle packs I was soon to start dialing in the current limiter on the NovaLink. The temps were in check for this car that is known to run a little hot. I honestly never experienced anything this close to flawless with an out-of-the box setup.

Now for my issue. The speedo stopped working during practice before the mains! All of a sudden out of now where!! First night!!! And here is what I am finding:

The car will steer. The car is receiving a signal from the radio to the speedo as the LEDs are indicating as such. The motor will not turn. I went back through the initial setup and this is what I find:

I can get the red LED while in Neutral. I get the green LED while full throttle. I get the blinking green LED while on full brake. I DO NOT get the solid red LED when back to neutral. What do I get? Nothing that is covered in the literature that I have . The LEDs blink in a random sequence. All of them with no discernible pattern.

What should I do next?
  1. Try a different motor?
  2. Try a new capacitor?
  3. Send it back?
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Old 10-03-2010, 06:06 PM   #932
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Hey guys need a little advice, I would like to purchase the Kinetic for a B44 used on the street purely as a play car and mate it with a 3.5T motor.

Are there any good reviews or testimonials or comparisons that would help a technically adept but non enthusiast learn enough to make an informed decision about purchasing this controller over others?

Can someone give me a quick synopsis as to why one would not want to put the fastest motor in this car for the purpose stated?

Assuming the driver is good enough to use the speed, and batteries are up to the task, and advantages to speak of by using a more tame motor under this scenario specified?

Right now we are using the 5.5R with GTB, and while very fast, looking for the next speed fix and step up.

With the new Novak motors can one simply change out the stator and change the motors KV rating easily now? Or is it more involved that it would appear?

Has the bad/failing rotor issues been cleared up? We unfortunately had an issue with 2 of these, and was told this has been a reoccurring problem from our local shops POV.

Any follow up information I could leave that would help answer any of these questions?

TIA

And as a bonus we seem to go through the bevel gear sets in the B44s, is there any substitute that would be an acceptable replacement or upgrade that would give us a better hour/repair ratio?
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Old 10-03-2010, 09:02 PM   #933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
Guys,

I would like to begin this post on a positive note and am seeking sound advice. I strapped in the Kinetic with Ballistic 8.5 in a Durango DEX410R. The thing was so good it gave me the giggles. Right out of the box--fast and smooth. Coupled with Orion 4600mAh 45C saddle packs I was soon to start dialing in the current limiter on the NovaLink. The temps were in check for this car that is known to run a little hot. I honestly never experienced anything this close to flawless with an out-of-the box setup.

Now for my issue. The speedo stopped working during practice before the mains! All of a sudden out of now where!! First night!!! And here is what I am finding:

The car will steer. The car is receiving a signal from the radio to the speedo as the LEDs are indicating as such. The motor will not turn. I went back through the initial setup and this is what I find:

I can get the red LED while in Neutral. I get the green LED while full throttle. I get the blinking green LED while on full brake. I DO NOT get the solid red LED when back to neutral. What do I get? Nothing that is covered in the literature that I have . The LEDs blink in a random sequence. All of them with no discernible pattern.

What should I do next?
  1. Try a different motor?
  2. Try a new capacitor?
  3. Send it back?
Well, to answer my own post I went back and read through the troubleshooting guide and plugged in a different RX and it worked! I plugged back in the one I am running with this car and it worked. But now I am clueless as to what happened. Maybe the wire to the receiver came unplugged slightly? I know it did not thermal for the temp on the ESC was low--less than 100F. Intermittent problems are enuff to drive one insane. Maybe some of you have experienced this issue in the past?
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:59 AM   #934
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dangerwr View Post
Well, to answer my own post I went back and read through the troubleshooting guide and plugged in a different RX and it worked! I plugged back in the one I am running with this car and it worked. But now I am clueless as to what happened. Maybe the wire to the receiver came unplugged slightly? I know it did not thermal for the temp on the ESC was low--less than 100F. Intermittent problems are enuff to drive one insane. Maybe some of you have experienced this issue in the past?
Could it have been the sensor lead? If this was loose the motor would not turn but the ESC would behave normally as you describe. When changing the receiver could the sensor cable have been moved and thus making a sound connection again?
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:04 AM   #935
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Originally Posted by JBM Racing View Post
Whats your end RPM?

I have been running 10.5T LRP X12 8000-28000 RPM, 55* timing no boost, with 7.6 ratio, motor @ 80 Deg C Keeping up with the good guys. But I think the end RPM is important, it seems the lower it is the more rip you have but more temp.
That's really interesting and where I've come to in my testing. I'm yet to try higher timing than 35* but your info confirms where I'm headed next. I'm going to try 7900 - 25000 with 35* and slowly increase the timing. Once I'm at 55* and temps are good I'll try reducing the top RPM.

When I first had the speedo I only used the one touch button so the end RPM was whatever the preset is. 9100 was the timing set point I used via one touch.
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Old 10-04-2010, 04:20 AM   #936
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I WANT IT! LOL. Anyone used it?

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Originally Posted by SWTour View Post
an easier to view pic.

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Old 10-04-2010, 04:42 AM   #937
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Yup... That's why it's the Kinetic thread and we're all discussing speedo setups, lol. It's an awesome speedo and you really have to try it to know.
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Old 10-04-2010, 08:55 AM   #938
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Is this the wrong thread for my post? #932

Is there a more appropriate place to post my questions dealing with the Kinetic?
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Old 10-04-2010, 09:02 AM   #939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dvaid852456 View Post
Could it have been the sensor lead? If this was loose the motor would not turn but the ESC would behave normally as you describe. When changing the receiver could the sensor cable have been moved and thus making a sound connection again?
Nope! That was the first thing I checked. I even changed out the sensor wire and the motor still would not turn. I might race it again on Wednesday and see if any problem persists. Awesome combo Novak!
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Old 10-04-2010, 10:13 AM   #940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotarypower101 View Post
Is this the wrong thread for my post? #932

Is there a more appropriate place to post my questions dealing with the Kinetic?
Well, there's not much you can do to save the drivetrain on a B44 being driven on asphalt with a 3.5, you'll be stripping a lot more gears with the 3.5 than you do now with the 5.5 and it'll be stupidly fast. With the Kinetic you'll be able to get your 5.5 as fast as a 3.5 with the timing, so I wouldn't wouldn't worry about needing more speed.

And yes on the changing the stator, it really is that easy. But as many as you want, swap them out and it'll be exactly whatever wind it states it is, no need to change anything else.

I've never had any issue with any of my rotors so I'm not sure which problem you may be speaking of, it may have been something on the last series of motors. As far as I know there are no known issue with the Ballistics.
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:19 PM   #941
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Originally Posted by xtraman122 View Post
Well, there's not much you can do to save the drivetrain on a B44 being driven on asphalt with a 3.5, you'll be stripping a lot more gears with the 3.5 than you do now with the 5.5 and it'll be stupidly fast. With the Kinetic you'll be able to get your 5.5 as fast as a 3.5 with the timing, so I wouldn't wouldn't worry about needing more speed.

And yes on the changing the stator, it really is that easy. But as many as you want, swap them out and it'll be exactly whatever wind it states it is, no need to change anything else.

I've never had any issue with any of my rotors so I'm not sure which problem you may be speaking of, it may have been something on the last series of motors. As far as I know there are no known issue with the Ballistics.
Thank you very much for the response, I assume I could just tune out the torque on the bottom and ramp it up as the Gs are reduced through the range?
Come up with a compromise that saves the gearsets, but still gives top end?

I know it may be a partial question, but most people seem to prefer non Novak equipment. Would this be a fair statement?

I have always used there product for many years, and had mostly nothing but success with their products “save for the tempest...yuk! Nothing but issues”

What makes this controller the best overall choice than the rest IYO?
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Old 10-04-2010, 01:53 PM   #942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Hanson View Post
Can the 2s speedo be used in 1s classes? What needs to be done to make it work?
Jamie, as far as I know all you need is the likes of Novaks Smartboost wired in with the speedo/receiver. The reason is that 1s Lipo do not put out enough power and the Smartboost ups this to the required voltage. The 1s version of the speedos have either a built in booster or a plug to allow you to plug in a separate battery.
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:02 PM   #943
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Our Kinetic 1S version has a number of differences from our Kinetic 2S:

~ low profile heat sink installed
~ smaller TransCap module installed
~ wiring installed for separate rx pack
~ on-board software optimized for 1S
~ (some) plugs soldered, rather than plug-in

Most of these changes make the 1S more compact and easier to install, but the 2S can also be used in 1S events.
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Old 10-04-2010, 02:35 PM   #944
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Originally Posted by rotarypower101 View Post
Thank you very much for the response, I assume I could just tune out the torque on the bottom and ramp it up as the Gs are reduced through the range?
Come up with a compromise that saves the gearsets, but still gives top end?

I know it may be a partial question, but most people seem to prefer non Novak equipment. Would this be a fair statement?

I have always used there product for many years, and had mostly nothing but success with their products “save for the tempest...yuk! Nothing but issues”

What makes this controller the best overall choice than the rest IYO?
You can certainly use the amperage limiter to kill the low end and put some timing in to raise the top end, but it's going to be tough to safely run a 1/10 4wd with that much power and that much traction.

As for brand preference, Novak fell a little behind before without having pc programmability for stuff like drag brake and didn't offer timing, I'm sure Novak will be right up there with the rest now, it just needs some time to circulate in the market.

And as for why I think it's better, one of the biggest things is smoothness, both in throttle and brakes. The Tekins especially feel very light on low end, and come on aggressively at around 1/4 throttle, the Novak stuff has always given the powerful and linear feel that many like the LRPs for. It's the best of both worlds, power and smoothness of an LRP with the timing advance and programmability of a Tekin, you just can't go wrong.
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Old 10-04-2010, 03:30 PM   #945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rotarypower101 View Post
Thank you very much for the response, I assume I could just tune out the torque on the bottom and ramp it up as the Gs are reduced through the range?
Come up with a compromise that saves the gearsets, but still gives top end?

I know it may be a partial question, but most people seem to prefer non Novak equipment. Would this be a fair statement?

I have always used there product for many years, and had mostly nothing but success with their products “save for the tempest...yuk! Nothing but issues”

What makes this controller the best overall choice than the rest IYO?
I think that between what your thinking of doing and playing with the throttle curve you should be able to take some of the harshness out of the bottom end and still have big top end. Play with the minimum drive setting as well.

There are a couple of things that I feel made Novak the less than desired speed control. First the actual size of the GTB put a lot of people off, enough so, that many would have prefered to give up durability and great product support over size and weight. Secondly, the power capacitor although critical has always put some people off, such as where to mount it. Now with a reduced size capacitor circuit available and the introduction of the Kinetic in either 1S or 2S, both issues have been addressed, and with the programability option you now have a speed control that rivals all others out there. The Kinetic is as someone else stated, the best of both worlds, very smooth through the entire power band and yet has the capability to have termendous top end and acceleration. Along with this a user interface that has a lot of info, but stated in a easier way to understand just makes it a good choice.
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