Charlie

The easiest way to get "baselines" that are safe is to use the button settings.

Start out simply using the button setting's so you can go out in practice and adjust things trackside. Then when you find something close, you can very simply make a profile on the PC that is similar and "fine tune".

I do this often, and many times, we simply run the button settings "only".

BullFrog

iTrader: (4)

Thank You Charlie!

Demuz

hi!
My esc and cap just popped and smoked when i set the timeing at 20 on my SpeedPassion 4.5R
anyone know anyting about this ? help plz!
Demuz

Charlie

I would suggest emailing me with your basic setup. Include as much detail as to what happend before the failure, how many runs all that good stuff.

My email is [email protected]

Usually if it "just blows up" for no reason, there is a hidden reason.....

radwerx

iTrader: (3)

hi Charlie, having messed with quite a few of Tekins and Hobbywings previously, I would say I can differentiate perfectly between the Dynamic Timing part and and Boost Timing part very well.

My concern is, say if my track has a tight infield and I only use, for example, 20 to 30 deg of dynamic timing, when I get to the VERY long straight and enable Boost to give me more top end speed, the sudden MASSIVE advance in timing will rob the motor of torque and create more heat instead.

Therefore, why is there no way to control the rate of advance of Boost Timing in degrees/seconds (Here I am referring to the Timing added ONLY at full Throttle after the Boost delay)? Or is there some built in algorithm to control the application of Boost Timing?

Thanks.

PowerPee

iTrader: (2)

Here are my original settings:



Note: So far I have only tried to play the buggy inside our village and the boost speed is great! I tried Charlie's suggestion above and turned off the boost (see below).



Note: I will try this out this weekend and give an update. There is a probability that I might be able to visit our local race track and do the test there instead. =D

Buzz65

iTrader: (2)

The serial # seems to be missing from my box. Is there another place to get that info?

Thanks ahead of time for the responses.

PFKAOG

iTrader: (12)

It's a white sticker on the side of your esc. On the pic you posted it looks like you stuck your switch on the esc right where the serial # sticker would be.

Charlie

Hi Rad,

"why" I'm not 100% sure on,

We have used the current limiter to soften the kick of the Boost. You might want to try this is small amounts.

You can also try to use more the timing to get the motor up to RPM before the boost kicks in. Use a wider RPM range, and more timing. In the infield, it won't apply much more timing, as it's not getting to the upper RPM range. Down the strait, it will apply more timing as the motor rpm is higher, then kick in the boost. The hit won't be as hard.

I was on emails all weekend. [email protected]

Thanks.
Charlie

MiCk B

iTrader: (2)

Hey,

Anyone else think the temps below are a little high?

MiCk B. :-)

skypilot

iTrader: (14)

Mick, he doesn't say what brand motor he is using only a 13.5, if it is not a novak or other motor with a temp sensor you will get 200 as a default temp reading. This happened to me when using speedpassion and viper motors.

brighty

Charlie has sent me a brain board...do I open the system up and replace whats in there?

dvaid852456

No just look at it admiringly

Yes, just unscrew the 4 hex screws holding the heat sink on and carefully remove the lower case. Gently pull the old brainboard off and replace with the new one. Do up the screws and your good to go.

Buzz65

iTrader: (2)

I think the size of those screws is a 1.3mm? (Very small)

Don't strip them out whatever you do.

Good luck.

Charlie

It's a standard .05 size hex.