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Old 06-06-2011, 04:26 PM   #1831
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When a rotor is exposed to too much heat it reduces its magnetic strength. I'm sure if you put in a new motor it would work. The question which is hard to calculate is how weak will that rotor be? If there was enough heat to damage the stator, then the rotor in a new motor will likely be noticeably less powerful.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:10 PM   #1832
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When a rotor is exposed to too much heat it reduces its magnetic strength. I'm sure if you put in a new motor it would work. The question which is hard to calculate is how weak will that rotor be? If there was enough heat to damage the stator, then the rotor in a new motor will likely be noticeably less powerful.
My experience tells me that overheated rotors are stuffed and only make good fridge magnets.

The remainder of the motor will probably be ok, put a new rotor in and off you go.

Also, when using overheated rotors you can end up chasing your tail. Rotors which have been overheated will feel great for about 2 minutes on the track and then die off (overheat again). So you turn down the Boost/Gearing and it feels great for 2 minutes and then overheats again. You can turn down the boost/gearing all you like, but it will still feel good for 2 minutes then overheat. This is because a rotor which has been overheated tends to draw around 20-25amps, as opposed to a good rotor which draws about 9-12amps.

Watch your temps very closely, because once a rotor has been cooked there stuffed. Differant motors have differant "cook" temps too, they are not all the same.
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Old 06-06-2011, 11:25 PM   #1833
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Howdy folks,

We posted 1.4.3 Kinetic firmware.

Addressed some brake issues with the ultra fast frame rate radios, and should help with cap temps.

Any questions, please feel free to email me anytime. [email protected]. Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2011, 01:57 AM   #1834
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fantastic
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:02 AM   #1835
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Howdy folks,

We posted 1.4.3 Kinetic firmware.

Addressed some brake issues with the ultra fast frame rate radios, and should help with cap temps.

Any questions, please feel free to email me anytime. [email protected]. Thanks!
I currently have my brakes set to 50% on the ESC and transmitter EPA is set to 60% due to some issues with the capacitors.

I have now updated to 1.4.3.

Is it safe to up the brakes with this update as they are a little weaker than I would like.

Even at 50% the caps were almost getting to 60c.

I'm really starting to love the kinetic. Broke my Personal best on Sunday and just keep getting more and more speed out of it. It's super smooth and very driveable.
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Old 06-08-2011, 09:33 AM   #1836
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The Default EPA setting on the ESC has been lowered from 10 to 8, so simply reset your radio to 100/100 on the TH/BK EPA, redo the One Touch Setup, and give it a wirl. You probably won't need any more brake then that. Typically, drivers lower the Brake EPA further yet.
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Old 06-08-2011, 10:21 AM   #1837
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The Default EPA setting on the ESC has been lowered from 10 to 8, so simply reset your radio to 100/100 on the TH/BK EPA, redo the One Touch Setup, and give it a wirl. You probably won't need any more brake then that. Typically, drivers lower the Brake EPA further yet.
Coolio - Next race Sunday so I'll give it a try.
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:18 PM   #1838
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So I had a chat with SkyPilot last night about a little quirk he found and we came to a fix, well, at least I think we did.


I've had guys report they get locked out of the RPM range, what we did to fix was simple. Reset the one touch, re-did the firmware update, reset the one touch again, and Bam, it works like magic.

For the most part, the one touch clears the ESC out, so if you run into goofy issues, it's a good idea to very simply re-do the one touch and start fresh. Takes all of a few seconds.


Some more detail as to what 1.4.3 has:
Updated Brake operation for Fast Rate Radio Systems.
Brake EPA updated - Works just like radio EPA - now Defaults to setting 8.
Operational changes to reduce the power capacitor temps.
If you have an ESC that is 1.4 anything, fine to update via the Firmware Updater.

If you have an ESC that is 1.3 or older, please email us with your Serial Number to receive a brain board.

Also, the NovaLink was found to have a minor bug in the Throttle/Brake curve - This has been Fixed and posted. The NovaLink that was simply replaced, no changes to the version. Simply uninstall what you have now, and Download what is posted.


Also, if anyone out there has Brain Boards they haven't returned (the old ones) please do. We can recycle them. Regular Post is fine.


And by all means, if you have any questions directly for us, that we've not addressed, or you don't get speedy forum answers, email me directly anytime. If I get internet, I usually answer emails daily.

[email protected]

Thanks
Charlie
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:10 AM   #1839
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Hello Charlie,
I just installed v1.4.3, and I get some mixing between buttons and associated description , as follows:

Throttle Curve / Linear : displays "Dead Band" description
clicking on "custom" => no change, "Dead Band" description
clicking on "Linear" => displays "Brake Curve" description
clicking on "Custom" => displays "Throttle Curve" description (finally)

Brake Curve / Linear => displays "Lipo cutoff" description

Independant Drag Brakes / No => displays "ESC Temp Protection" description

Reverse/ off => displays "Independant Drag Brakes" description

ESC Temp / On => displays "Throttle curve" description

Motor Rotation / CCW => displays "Reverse" description

Is it on my PC only ?
Thanks
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:00 AM   #1840
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I don't see that happening with mine. Strange.

If you "leave" your mouse over what you're reading on, it works.

If you move the mouse after you click on it to read the description, the description will change to what ever the mouse is over.
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Old 06-09-2011, 12:39 PM   #1841
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Default Smoked Sensor Wire

Charlie, I had a new failure mode this weekend. Driving with a Kinetic and a brand I 21.5 motor. I jumped a dot and the car rolled to a stop with a small puff of smoke. When trouble shooting the Kinetic looked ok but I got flashing leds. The motor checked out Ok on my dyno. Replaced the sensor wire and was back in business. I took the flex wrap off the sensor wire and one wire had burnt the insulation off it. I believe it was one of the end wires on the connector. Any ideas as to what gave me that kind of power surge that would melt a sensor wire?

Thanks
ps. how many days to IIC in Vegas?
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:21 AM   #1842
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MOOOSE!

That's a new one for me. Shoot me an email. I'd like to take a look at that one.

[email protected]

Oh, and "too many"!
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Old 06-10-2011, 02:57 PM   #1843
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Originally Posted by Charlie View Post
MOOOSE!

That's a new one for me. Shoot me an email. I'd like to take a look at that one.
dang, I tossed the wire
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:30 PM   #1844
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I ran 1.4.3 at the weekend and was very pleased.

Temps seemed much lower and I was able to push the timing up to 50 degrees. The brakes felt stronger too and no capacitor problems running brakes at 60%.

Well done Team Novak!
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Old 06-14-2011, 08:16 AM   #1845
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Here's my story...

I bought the Kinetic 2s for my B4.1 a few weeks ago and after reading (thoroughly) the documentation tried to config the ESC's boost. It worked well so I decided to buy the Novalink interface kit. After following the instructions and installing (and trying to connect) the interface my ESC was still working and after upgrading the firmware it just stopped.

I email Novak and Charlie.

Brent Newman (thank you sir) gave me quick reply saying he will replace and ship the brain board to me (on its way here, thank you again).

A day or 2 after Charlie emailed me to download the 1.4.3 and Kinetic firmware. I did it awhile ago and it finally worked! Yahoo!

It was the first time I was able to connect to the software and configure some stuffs. However, the boost mode was not highlighted so I could not configure it.

I did a test run of the buggy awhile ago and sure enough there was not boost (unlike before). I already emailed Charlie just waiting for a reply.

I was wondering if it happened to anyone here. I am using a 13.5t motor on the ESC. Prior to the issue with the Novalink I was running the boost around 50 and the temp was only reaching 40-42C.

Any feedbacks are appreciated.

Thanks =D
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