hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Shesha - i'm happy you've made progress with your setup. i think there is two more things you should try when you can..

#1 moving the inner ackerman post forward on the chassis. in this setting you will have less overall ackerman, but your ackerman settings will be more fine grained

#2 experiment with lowering the front arm mounts. you don't have to move both arm mounts at once, you could say lower the front arm mount and that would generate anti-dive --- something that could be very helpful when running such a high horsepower motor as you are.

KWT-NITRO

iTrader: (9)

do you call 20 hours on the track A SESSION?? more like a Le Mans 24H Race

BlackedOutREVO

iTrader: (67)

I agree with hanulec anti dive works really well in mod. And the forward post as well, two things I always run!

KWT-NITRO

iTrader: (9)

i already have the forword post on my T2 but how will the anti dive help when running MOD?? when you say anti dive, front arm angeled toward the rear or front?? which side is lower?? i guess rear is lower??

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

T2 forward post != T3 forward post. I think T3 forward post == T2 rear post. I always ran my T2 w/ the rear post.

Anyway -- anti-dive will help the car from compressing the front suspension so quickly when you get on the brakes. I found it to be necessary when going from 13.5T to basically anything quicker. Also, w/ the T3 you don't have to just use the default +/- 0.75mm options, you can use shims to get less than 0.75mm pin height differences.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Hanulec, am not sure about what you are referring to the ackerman post forward, you mean the plastic piece that slides back and forth from setting 1 to 5 or are you referring to the plastic which the bearings seat in?

I did not touch the post since I was not sure, but played with the antidive, my car initiall before setting up antidive was lacking a bit of on power steering, so when I put in antidive on the front being front plastic piece at 0 degree and rear +0.75 it felt really nice on the corner entry and very comfortable you can see the change on the first lap and corners.

however having lost the steering on mid corner and exit, i switched out the plastic to reverse the process and went with pro-kickup, it was perfect, but then you lost the previous effect but still it was good with the on-power steering which gave me just the right amount.

I could go back to the anti-dive and work on the onpower steering with some other feature on the car to compensate.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Antdive means the front arms are leaning downwards , rear is higher.

Example front at 0 and rear at +0.75 or -0.75 front and rear 0

Like hanulec said it really keeps the car balanced when you hit the brakes, front end does not squat down.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

I needed to sort out my sleep it's $ucked up, so might as well stay awake on something i can concentrate on.

FYI try the 36LS tires they are better than the 36PP

g26er

iTrader: (13)

I may have missed this mentioned else where but if you're currently @ 4deg caster, go back to anti-dive then change to 6deg caster blocks to get your mid and exit steering back.

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Yup u are right, but i dont have the 6 degree caster blocks, the other guys finished them off from the shop and we are out of stock, till they are back in stock.

I know particular guy went through 4 of them in one session...

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

yes - im talking about the plastic that holds the bearing in the chassis and top deck.

i'd give anti-dive another try, but this time w/ 6 degree c-hubs. i think that will be the hot modified setup. you might be able to not do the 6 degree c-hubs if your running a lot of camber gain in the front or really stiff springs (have you tried past a 3.0 in the front yet... if not, please do).

shesha

iTrader: (1)

Think I will beg tomorrow on the track for 6 degs of caster, am sure it will be the cherry topping on the setup.

It feels so nice as it is, will play with the plastic bearings seats and see how that goes once i get my hands on the 6 deg caster blocks.

ark

iTrader: (11)

Shesha try change your front droop value from 5 to 6

Still Bill

iTrader: (16)

Any suggestions for a good TC 17.5 setup to use for the no timing stock class at the IIC? We will be on Jaco Blues.

Thanks.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

Hey Bill,

I would try Mike Hanulec's setup from there last year. His car was awesome though it was a 009. He has some setups for the T3 on xray's site as well from this year's birds that are very good as well!

EA