Chris Adams

I race on carpet mostly here in Dallas and have thought that the shorter links give more steering/ corner speed. When I go back to the stock setup or really close to it, I find that as I adjust to the longer link my car becomes faster. This is with Sorex tires on a med./low bite track.

I think that most people that have ran a xray in the past and on foam still like to put the ackerman extremely far forward and I do believe this to be a mistake. The farther back I have made the servo saver/ackerman adjuster, the faster and smoother it has gotten.

If you do feel like you need more camber gain, you can shorten your width in the front to 1.15 shims and add a small wheel base shim to the axel to create the same thing.

Abu Salahuddin

iTrader: (3)

48P gears has larger teeth than 64P gears. 48P gears however are more durable i.e. chances of the gears stripping is much lower. 64P gears runs quieter and more efficient but more fragile. I have been stripping quite a fair bit of the 64P and so far with the 48P, have been using it since day 1. So its a compromise, improved efficiency vs improved durability.

KWT-NITRO

iTrader: (9)

thanks for the explaination

gotta try both of them and see how it goes.

thanks again

Ali (Abu Ahmed)

Abu Salahuddin

iTrader: (3)

And the 64P gears will have more gear ratio options that the 48P.

Ashiq

ronaldo-1234

iTrader: (16)

On the topic of spur gears, what is the difference between offset spur gear and spur gear in the manual? All xray 64 spur gear has offset while 48p has both e offset and w/o offset.

PrimeAKF11

iTrader: (4)

Guys,

I have a strange problem with my stock diff. Even after being freshly rebuilt, it gets rather gritty after a single 6 minutes run. Then after sitting for a few minutes in the pits, the grittiness goes away by itself and it is smooth again.

What could be causing this? I thought maybe I was rebuilding it wrong but I had a few experienced guys at my track look at it last saturday and they told me I wasn't doing anything wrong. I had been rebuilding diffs on old Cyclone the same way and never had this problem before.

Has anyone here experienced a similar problem?

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

It will feel better after a while as it has cooled down again Sounds like your diff is loose and the grease is 'spitting' out. Try running the diff i tiny bit tighter

PrimeAKF11

iTrader: (4)

I normally tighten my diff just to the point it stops slipping, but I will try running it a bit tighter next weekend. Thanks for the help!

Do you think using thicker grease will help?

Abu Salahuddin

iTrader: (3)

There is no difference in performance with the offset spur gears. It is design to give more clearance so that the lipo battery packs do not rub against the pinion & spur gears.

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

What grease are you using ??

mine last months between rebuilds (stock)

i use Assosiated black diff grease it is THE best

PrimeAKF11

iTrader: (4)

I am using white diff grease that came with my old Cyclone. Is the black diff grease same as stealth grease?

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

i dont know , itis in a clearish tube and black writing on the outside

the grease is clear too

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

I use associated stealth lube for the diff balls and associated black for the thrust.

Depending upon how old your diff is you might need to change your thrust too.

Yokomo_Ant3

iTrader: (29)

A thicker grease will definatly help. Try either Associated (Black writing on the tube, NOT red) or schumacher (very hard to get a hold of) Thats for the balls, then a black grease on the thrust.

DaveW

iTrader: (1)

You didnt specify if your diff was in the front or the rear, but if you dont have enough droop in the rear and the inside tire lifts off the track during cornering... it will overheat the rear diff and create the problem you mention.