XRAY T3
#1306
Anyone got any good rubber(Jaco blues) carpet setups for ozite on a medium size track. The traction sometimes gets so high all the car wants to do it roll when tires get hot. I looked at the site and didn't see any for the T3 except for Hanulec.
#1309
compared to the box set up, I found that I liked a little less steering, to accomplish this I changed...
-the rear shocks 1 or 2 holes more upright (the rear is too soft, thus the stiffer you make it the more planted you make it)
-With the stock shock oil all around I am running 3/4 holes closed in the front shocks and all or half open in the rear depending, but the stiffer front makes a huge difference on how much it dives
-1.5mm of droop over ride height all around
-Only a front sway bar (the rear does almost nothing anyway)
-1mm shims between the front wheel and the hex, also 1.5mm of shims between the arms and their mounts in the front and none in the rear with 3mm of inboard only toe.
Also make sure you dont have too much steering lock (my circles are huge, I can barely turn around in a lane), and if it is still traction rolling then try less rear droop, less front camber, or if you have to anti dive in the front (maybe add more caster is you do that). You can also superglue the front sidewall. Smaller changes could be more angled front links, or if you had to, short front links.
I can sauce full fronts (which makes the car super consistant throughout the run, as it doesnt pick up too much steering), this is on the current ozite with paragon as a fyi. Bite isnt super high as its mostly rubber cars running, but it is very good. Track I have been running on is rc excitement in Fitchburg, Mass.
-the rear shocks 1 or 2 holes more upright (the rear is too soft, thus the stiffer you make it the more planted you make it)
-With the stock shock oil all around I am running 3/4 holes closed in the front shocks and all or half open in the rear depending, but the stiffer front makes a huge difference on how much it dives
-1.5mm of droop over ride height all around
-Only a front sway bar (the rear does almost nothing anyway)
-1mm shims between the front wheel and the hex, also 1.5mm of shims between the arms and their mounts in the front and none in the rear with 3mm of inboard only toe.
Also make sure you dont have too much steering lock (my circles are huge, I can barely turn around in a lane), and if it is still traction rolling then try less rear droop, less front camber, or if you have to anti dive in the front (maybe add more caster is you do that). You can also superglue the front sidewall. Smaller changes could be more angled front links, or if you had to, short front links.
I can sauce full fronts (which makes the car super consistant throughout the run, as it doesnt pick up too much steering), this is on the current ozite with paragon as a fyi. Bite isnt super high as its mostly rubber cars running, but it is very good. Track I have been running on is rc excitement in Fitchburg, Mass.
#1310
Tech Master
Check out ChristopherKee's setup thats listed. Very good starting point and similiar to what we all run at my local carpet track. Track is 100X 50 (about) and medium traction.
#1311
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Yesterday was my first outing with my new T3. All I can say is WOW!! I had decided to just start with the recommended "kit" setup, as you have to start somewhere, and I was afraid that the car was too different from the '009 to start with that setup. I expected to make adjustments all day and was pleasantly surprised. The first round of practice was just mainly learning where the pipes were (new layout) because the track had just been misted with Traction Action and was fairly "greasy". During the second time out on the track, the traction had become fairly good and the car felt pretty close. Close enough that I still didn't want to make any changes until I saw what the track was going to do. By race time, the grip had gotten really good and the car just kept feeling better and better each time out. I ended up not changing one single thing all day (other than gearing) and by the end of the day, the car felt as close to perfect as any that I have ever driven. The first thing that I noticed (and really liked) was the amount of steering that the T3 seems to have compared to the T2, and it is not at the sacrifice of rear grip. The thing is just planted. Plain and simple. The steering authority almost reminds me of a foam tire pan car, almost. lol I did experience one traction roll all day long, but it was totally driver error. I cranked on the wheel too hard going into a pretty tight right hander and knew what I had done as soon as I did it. That was just kind of a freak thing though. The car did not feel on edge at all. What else can I say? I am beyond impressed. I think this thing has MAJOR potential. I'm anxious to see how I like it on asphalt. I have a feeling it's going to be bad fast!
#1312
Zdiddy, 13.5 TC in Memphis this year.
#1314
Well I got the car when the first batch came out and tonight was the night the screw finally ripped through my chassis. I put CA everywhere that didn't do S. I will post pictures in a few.
#1315
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (28)
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=1172&setup=t3
it looks like Drew just updated his setup today. he wasn't running the rear arm mounts at +0.75 previously.... and he was running a lower rear camber link at position #1 instead of #3.
to keep the car from rolling i'd suggest using the low (-.75) roll center front arm mounts, along w/ adding 0.75 mm spaces to shim the arm out to 2.25mm from the front bulkhead. this will put the car at the maximum legal 190mm width.
#1318
#1319
Tech Regular
where can I buy a t3 or 009 in Europe performing the cheapest?
here in Sweden is not cheap around $ 728.57 + shipping ..
where can I find the cheapest in the world or used?
grateful for the help
what is the best? T2 009 EU or T3 EU?
here in Sweden is not cheap around $ 728.57 + shipping ..
where can I find the cheapest in the world or used?
grateful for the help
what is the best? T2 009 EU or T3 EU?
#1320
if you want it cheaper buy from Hong Kong , i didnt , my LHS did me one as cheap as he could and it was only a few euros more then HK
why dont you use the 1 piece block ?? that is what is was designed for , crashy people like me , i run it and there is no problems with my car !!!